Yellow Mach 1 is back again!

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Joined
May 15, 2011
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Location
PA
My Car
1971 Mach 1 Mustang
Well guys, I got some more work to do on the yellow Mach 1 that I painted a couple years ago.  Unfortunately we found 2 small bubbles in the paint. one on the passenger rear quarter panel and one on the driver side A-pillar. It sucks but im going to take care of it for him. Once I ground down the bubble on the quarter panel I found a couple small brown spots in the bare metal. So I poke them with a screw driver and it went right through in a couple spots. Metal was thin in that area and must of came through. When I sanded the car down to bare metal a couple years ago, those spots were not there. O well we missed one. So I cut out the bad spot, welded new metal in, bodyworked it, primed it, let it set a week, blocked it down, and primed it again. I didn't find anything under the tiny bubble by A-pillar, might have been something in my gun. But those areas are primed and letting them set for few weeks while I do some other work on the car.

I am starting the process of cleaning up the engine bay and painting all the brackets and tidying up everything under the hood. He didn't want to pull the motor  just yet, so we are going to work around it and do what we can with it.  I ordered a bunch of parts for it and will be installing a new 4 barrel carb and intake, along with a set of long tube ceramic headers. Should wake this car up quite a bit from the 2 barrel and single exhaust. 

I will keep you guys posted on the progress. And I already have a couple of questions! First, this car has working AC. I see that it has a throttle solenoid, that I assume is activated when the AC is turned on to bump up the idle rpm. Is this correct?? And if it is correct, then im going to have to make a new bracket for it to mount to the quick fuel carb. Or is it not that important and can be run without?? Thoughts??

Also looking for who makes a slop gray spray paint for some of the underhood pieces that need sprayed slop gray?? Any suggestions or just find a regular gray and run with it??

 
The solenoid is not for the AC. It is an anti diesel solenoid. It activates when the car is on to open the throttle plates up slightly. When you turn the car off it allows it to close off completely. It is not part of the AC.

 
https://ibb.co/gJvhYVQ[/URL]

Perhaps I can offer some input. First, the slop grey I used is sold by NPD. It is NOT 'battle ship grey'!! You could mix your own, but a couple of cans is enough.

The rust out spots you show are typical areas from what I've seen. If it were me, I'd be checking the other side as well. I don't want to come across as some sort of body and paint expert, I'm not, that's just the way I think.

I do have to be honest though. I can never understand why people spend big dollars to make the outside look amazing, but leave the engine bay looking like crap. Again maybe my anal thinking, but why? It is not hard to pull the motor. With the right equipment and some good help, it's a couple of hours work. As the owner is planning on a few major upgrades, then surely that is the ideal opportunity to do it right, paint the motor in the correct Dark Corporate Blue and detail everything else as it should be. I used Duplicolor rattle cans or Eastwood sell a supposedly exact match to gun spray it. I chose rattle cans for easier touch up. For the under hood black I recommend Eastwood 2k Ceramic paint. You'll need 2 cans, but that was only just enough. It's expensive but has stood up very well so far and still looks great.

My Dad always told me "A job worth doing, is worth doing right"

Geoff.

IMG-0657.jpg


 
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Sure is nice to see that you stand behind your work. Great of you to fix those problems!

Yes that’s the solenoid for the a/c and it bumps the idle up when a/c is turned on. I wound up using that wire for my electric choke as my a/c isn’t functioning at the moment. So I can’t answer your question about still having to use it.

I used slop grey from NPD, actually they call it panel grey. I’m sure you could just make or use any dark gray as there was no exact formula for it. And some cars actually got a really dark color that looks like it could be black. Here’s a pic of the slop grey I used from NPD.

CF64CEEE-6433-4B18-B0D4-8AC1DDE882CE.jpegED714C2C-1F73-45EB-94F2-C9AD6F8BD2D9.jpeg

 
Ok why did my text show up blue after I uploaded the picture?? Cant' seem to figure that one out.

EDIT: I now know why the text is blue. It's because of the URL at the bottom. If I remove it (which I can't in that post) text will revert to black.

I learn something new every day!!

 
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Thanks for the input guys. But now I have 2 different answers on the throttle solenoid. And to be honest when I searched the site for answers I found the exact same answers on the forum. Some say its just an anit-diesel solenoid, others say its AC controlled.

Stanglover,

I painted this car about 2 years ago. The driver side quarter was replaced at that time. The owner did not want to do the under hood stuff because of time and money. He wanted to drive it. So we have been doing little things as time and money permit. A little each winter, so he can drive it in summer. I totally understand pulling the motor is easy, and have done my own more times than I want to count, but he did not want to go that route at this time. Just wants it detailed up nice and if he decides to rebuild motor in next couple years, we will do the engine bay properly then. By the way your engine bay is awesome!! Very nice job! So is Jpaz's!! I will definitely be looking at these as reference for a few things.

Also what color are the shock tower caps?? They don't seem to be slop gray like the braces??

 
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It is the anti-diesel solenoid. Pull the air cleaner assembly off when car is off. You will notice it is not activated. Start the car with the A/C off and the solenoid will activate if it still works. Cycle the AC on off and you will notice no change in the solenoid. This is why the lead works well to use for the electric choke. If it was AC related the elec choke would only work when the AC is on.

 
It is the anti-diesel solenoid. Pull the air cleaner assembly off when car is off. You will notice it is not activated. Start the car with the A/C off and the solenoid will activate if it still works. Cycle the AC on off and you will notice no change in the solenoid. This is why the lead works well to use for the electric choke. If it was AC related the elec choke would only work when the AC is on.
Ok thanks for the explanation.  So with the new carb I could just use that lead for my electric choke and be done with it?

 
You can trace the circuit on the wiring diagrams. The "throttle position solenoid" wasn't used in 1971, and came about in 1972 as a result of emission regulations, which led to lower compression and changed cam timing. The result was "dieseling", or run-on after the ignition was turned off. The solution was to add the solenoid, which sets key-on idle speed and closes the throttle blades when the key is turned off.

The "throttle position solenoid" circuit is #604, red/yellow stripe, and connects to circuit #16, red/light green stripe, which is the circuit that provides power to the coil from the coil run position on the ignition switch.

If the engine is stock, except for the manifold and carburetor, and has all of the original emission controls connected it is likely the solenoid will be needed. If the engine is stock, but has all emission controls removed, there's a good chance it will still be needed, but worth trying it first.

I believe the bracket used to be available for Holleys.

 
You can trace the circuit on the wiring diagrams. The "throttle position solenoid" wasn't used in 1971, and came about in 1972 as a result of emission regulations, which led to lower compression and changed cam timing. The result was "dieseling", or run-on after the ignition was turned off. The solution was to add the solenoid, which sets key-on idle speed and closes the throttle blades when the key is turned off.

The "throttle position solenoid" circuit is #604, red/yellow stripe, and connects to circuit #16, red/light green stripe, which is the circuit that provides power to the coil from the coil run position on the ignition switch.

If the engine is stock, except for the manifold and carburetor, and has all of the original emission controls connected it is likely the solenoid will be needed. If the engine is stock, but has all emission controls removed, there's a good chance it will still be needed, but worth trying it first.

I believe the bracket used to be available for Holleys.
Don, this is a bone stock 71 with less than 60,000 miles. I believe the solenoid is from the factory on this car. Most everything under the hood is factory. Why would this 71 have it?

 
Good question, the only '71s that I could find that have it is 6-cylinder engines, after looking through 3 different wiring diagrams and the '71 shop manual.

The V8s had anti-stall dashpots.

Easy enough to figure it out. With the key on, and AC off, check for voltage to the solenoid, if none, then with AC on. If the battery isn't connected, check for continuity between the positive battery cable and the wire to the solenoid, key on with AC off.

 
Good question, the only '71s that I could find that have it is 6-cylinder engines, after looking through 3 different wiring diagrams and the '71 shop manual.

The V8s had anti-stall dashpots.

Easy enough to figure it out. With the key on, and AC off, check for voltage to the solenoid, if none, then with AC on. If the battery isn't connected, check for continuity between the positive battery cable and the wire to the solenoid, key on with AC off.
Thanks! Makes sense and easy enough to check!

 
Nice work!

So frustrating to have to patch a paint work done not long ago.

[i found a couple small brown spots in the bare metal.]

This inner wheel /quarter is a real pain. Once the rust is there, it's an endless fight till you separate the 2 sheets and somehow manage to have some kind of water/air tight isolation in between.

I did similar patches there on the 73 and as I have similar work to do on one side of the 71, I'm considering this patch.

https://www.cjponyparts.com/wheel-flair-rt-rear-41-x32-1971-1973/p/M401R/

You probably formed the patch yourself. But In case you've cut from this source or similar, I'm very curious of its quality, thickness...

 
Nice work!

So frustrating to have to patch a paint work done not long ago.

[i found a couple small brown spots in the bare metal.]

This inner wheel /quarter is a real pain. Once the rust is there, it's an endless fight till you separate the 2 sheets and somehow manage to have some kind of water/air tight isolation in between.

I did similar patches there on the 73 and as I have similar work to do on one side of the 71, I'm considering this patch.

https://www.cjponyparts.com/wheel-flair-rt-rear-41-x32-1971-1973/p/M401R/

You probably formed the patch yourself. But In case you've cut from this source or similar, I'm very curious of its quality, thickness...
Yeah its a pain but gotta make it right.  I did make the patch myself and if you look at the pic where I cut it open you can see the new inner wheel well I replaced when it was first painted.



hey google toss a coin

 
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