1970 mustang

Hi Guys. I am helping a friend restore a 1970 mustang he bought last week. Vin # on the dash is way to damaged to be read, VIN # in the door is missing and the vin on the apron is just a partial VIN. Also, there is a different VIN on each apron, attached some photos of both #.  The car has mach 1 logos on the fenders and in the dash on the passenger side. My guess is that it is a Mach 1 clone, is there a way to know? Probably a original 6 cylinder car.

Title was issued with the partial VIN. They are not that strict with that around here.





 


 

The first pic looks like 1T and then the car number. 1 is 1971 and T is the assembly plant in Metuchen New Jersey.

Second pic is 0F which is 1970 and an assembly plant of Dearborn Michigan.

Not sure how one is for 1970 and the other for 1971 as the body styles and sheet metal are different. Maybe one of them had just the number cut out of a car and then welded into the support sheet metal?

Curious what you find out. Also, there is not enough info from this to determine what body style this car was.

The top picture with the 1 T looks incorrect. Looks like a non factory weld line just to the right of that VIN.

I would bet your VIN on the other side is correct.  Also, I am surprised to hear the dash VIN is so rough. They are riveted to the dash frame in that year instead of on the dash pad like a 71 through 3.  It should be easy to decode once the windshield is out.

Kcmash

Hi Guys. I am helping a friend restore a 1970 mustang he bought last week. Vin # on the dash is way to damaged to be read, VIN # in the door is missing and the vin on the apron is just a partial VIN. Also, there is a different VIN on each apron, attached some photos of both #.  The car has mach 1 logos on the fenders and in the dash on the passenger side. My guess is that it is a Mach 1 clone, is there a way to know? Probably a original 6 cylinder car.

Title was issued with the partial VIN. They are not that strict with that around here.





 


 

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The first digit does not (always) represent the year. The second is the assembly plant. My 1970 Mach 1 has a "4T", and obviously, it is not a 1974 build car.... I've seen past posts about how the numbers on Metuchen New Jersey cars were a bit haphazardly placed compared to Dearborn. For some reason, Metuchen did that 1T,2T,4T thing in front of the consecutive unit number for a little while, but I have not found any info on what it means. Also, I have heard of such discrepancies between the two fender aprons before, but not where the numbers are completely different. When I compare your fender aprons to mine. I think the "1T" looks to be original to me.  The "0F" just does not look right. So I am guessing the "0F" apron is from a Dearborn built donor car.  Finally, Metuchen built a lot of Mach 1s and most, if not all, of the M-codes left the factory with Cleveland engines.

You should be able to get a Marti with info you have. If you need a  new dash number Marti will gladly make you one for a little fee of $500. lol, he requires lots of info to make a new one before he jumps on it.