Just picked up a Lencospot Mark II Autobody Dual-Spot Welder Model L4000

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Rich
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Stock 1973 Mustang Convertible with a 351C 2v and C6
Modified 1970 Mach 1 M-Code with a 351C 4v Manual
Just picked up a Lencospot Mark II Autobody Dual-Spot Welder Model L4000 for $400. Anybody have or used one before? I am not an experienced welder. Any advice and pointers on how to use it would be appreciated.

Thanks

 




 
Do not have any experience with that one I do have a Miller resistance spot welder. Spot welders are not legal to do body repair with in most states has to be MIG welded. The difference between a great spot weld and one that holds nothing can be a half second of pulse time. Even in the factory you can have issues. You usually do hourly weld tear downs. When you pull the two pieces of metal apart it has to pull a nugget or hole in the panel. If the panels just pull apart the weld is no good.

How clean the metals is what is on the metal how tight it is clamped all change the weld quality.

You might want to sell.

 
David, you arw right about how to test for a good spot weld. I have read that. With this machine you set the time and it will stop automatically so you get a consistent weld. It takes some testing with to determine the correct settings.

I am going to do a little testing with it before I put at the curb.

 
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How does it clamp the metal or do you hold and electrode on each side?

I did use a Miller hand held spot welder with the long reach arms to put the front end on a 20th. Anniversary mustang my X crashed. It got crashed again and had to go on frame machine and the spots held. I did lots of testing before we started though.

One time at the factory we welded the whole floor for the Aerostar van for Ford. They did a tear down at Ford and found cold spot welds and we ended up buying every 1/8" pop rivet in stock. Ford recalled a bunch of them and they pulled the carpet up and put a bunch of pop rivets in.

It is amazing how little you get per spot weld. Toyota tells you up front you get $.03 per spot weld. You have to cool the water pay for labor, equipment and tips from that. Did find that if you sent the tips and have them cryogenic treated they last many times longer.

Would be interested seeing how it works.

 
curious about the clamping too

I've seen some extending the electrodes with copper tubing to allow greater distances

like here on this fan shroud fabrication video



Obviously having free electrodes allows to reach places you couldn't do with a "portable" 2 electrodes unit

but then I wonder how you know they are aligned...

 
How does it clamp the metal or do you hold and electrode on each side?

I did use a Miller hand held spot welder with the long reach arms to put the front end on a 20th. Anniversary mustang my X crashed. It got crashed again and had to go on frame machine and the spots held. I did lots of testing before we started though.

One time at the factory we welded the whole floor for the Aerostar van for Ford. They did a tear down at Ford and found cold spot welds and we ended up buying every 1/8" pop rivet in stock. Ford recalled a bunch of them and they pulled the carpet up and put a bunch of pop rivets in.

It is amazing how little you get per spot weld. Toyota tells you up front you get $.03 per spot weld. You have to cool the water pay for labor, equipment and tips from that. Did find that if you sent the tips and have them cryogenic treated they last many times longer.

Would be interested seeing how it works.
Click to expand...
The contacts are not used in a face to face position. They are used as 2 separate spot welds at the same time. I guess it like stitch welding?  I have read the down fall is that the panels have to be very tight on fit up or the spot weld wont hold. So you need to clamp the panels tight, as the current has to flow through the metal back to a ground (the other contact) to complete the circuit.  

Someone posted on another forum.... "the first thing I used it on was some 11 gauge steel for shelving that went on a pallet rack. They have had all sorts of things stacked on them, from complete motors to stacks of toploader 4 speed transmissions and they are still holding strong. There are numerous attachments available for these units. Just do a Google search. Parts are available through most any Hobart/Miller dealer. They can be a little pricey though.

Also was talking to LENCO sales and it seems that on the older models the internals are NLA... But you can buy an upgrade kit($240), that brings the old PanelSpotter up to date with the newer units and allows them to use the newer accessories like the Stud puller. 

CK-35 Electronic upgrade... The Conversion Kit will upgrades 3000 and 5000 Lenco spot welders to be compatible with Lenco’s L-4000 LencoSPOT®. Your welder will then accept Lenco’s QPK-20, L-950 and A-260 attachments."

My Lencospot unit is already a Mark II L4000, but I need new tips and a sharpener.

Attached is part of the manual that explains how to use it.

Here is a video of someone using a Lencospot... https://youtu.be/dKOAxO7jVPY

I'll post some pics once I do something with it.

Lencospot Mark II Autobody Dual-Spot Welder Model L4000 Manual x.pdf

 

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