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sunvisor and weatherstip placement convertible windscreen


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Hi Team

Could someone kindly post a photo of how their bracket for the sunvisors fit and also how the weatherstip goes on the windscreen of a convertible please. 

I have the bare windscreen frame with the new windscreen in. I can see how the stainless sections go on in the front but not sure how the two side panels, centre section and sunvisors with weatherstripping all go together. 

Cheers

Steve

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289x129https://i.ibb.co/5M8ZTTL/DSCN2957.jpg[/img]

 

262x250https://i.ibb.co/sP1nnyG/DSCN2958.jpg[/img]

 

Hi Team

Could someone kindly post a photo of how their bracket for the sunvisors fit and also how the weatherstip goes on the windscreen of a convertible please. 

I have the bare windscreen frame with the new windscreen in. I can see how the stainless sections go on in the front but not sure how the two side panels, centre section and sunvisors with weatherstripping all go together. 

Cheers

Steve

 

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289x129https://i.ibb.co/5M8ZTTL/DSCN2957.jpg[/img]

 

262x250https://i.ibb.co/sP1nnyG/DSCN2958.jpg[/img]

 

Hi Team

Could someone kindly post a photo of how their bracket for the sunvisors fit and also how the weatherstip goes on the windscreen of a convertible please. 

I have the bare windscreen frame with the new windscreen in. I can see how the stainless sections go on in the front but not sure how the two side panels, centre section and sunvisors with weatherstripping all go together. 

Cheers

Steve

 

 

Awesome thanks. Is there some sort of rubber weather stripping that attaches to that inner side panel from the top down to the bottom of the A pillar? Also does the roof hook, hook into the sun visor bracket??

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There is a water barrier that goes inside the stainless windshield trim. You probably had some gooey stick mess inside the stainless trim, see pic. That was the old seal that was there. I just go to home supply and get closed cell foam with sticky back to go in there. If you do not water will be forced under the trim and come inside the car. Here are some pictures to help clarify. I am holding a tape measure to show the gap that the foam needs to fill up between the upper windshield frame and the stainless.

You also have one screw in the side trim at the bottom that you have to remove the front fenders to get to.

You also need to put strip calk around the fasteners that are on the stainless to stop water there also.

If this is your first vert something that will help keep your rubber seals in shape is. When parked release the top clamps so that the rubber is not compressed. This will make the seals last much longer.

You can polish the stainless also and make it look like new. The rubber seal across the front gets dust and grit in between the rubber and stainless and scuffs it.

If any of your fasteners are broken or the bracket broke loos you will need to repair them. It is a common thing.

 

DSC00139.jpg

 

DSC00141.jpg

 

DSC00142.jpg

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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A few more pictures can't hurt...

 

DSC-0216.jpg

 

DSC-02141.jpg

 

DSC-0213.jpg

1973 H Code Convertible - Medium Copper Metallic - June 8, 1973, Built Ford Marketing Sales Vehicle

DSC_0266xsm.jpg

satellite.png Proud Space Junk Award Winner!

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There is a water barrier that goes inside the stainless windshield trim. You probably had some gooey stick mess inside the stainless trim, see pic. That was the old seal that was there. I just go to home supply and get closed cell foam with sticky back to go in there. If you do not water will be forced under the trim and come inside the car. Here are some pictures to help clarify. I am holding a tape measure to show the gap that the foam needs to fill up between the upper windshield frame and the stainless.

You also have one screw in the side trim at the bottom that you have to remove the front fenders to get to.

You also need to put strip calk around the fasteners that are on the stainless to stop water there also.

If this is your first vert something that will help keep your rubber seals in shape is. When parked release the top clamps so that the rubber is not compressed. This will make the seals last much longer.

You can polish the stainless also and make it look like new. The rubber seal across the front gets dust and grit in between the rubber and stainless and scuffs it.

If any of your fasteners are broken or the bracket broke loos you will need to repair them. It is a common thing.

 

DSC00139.jpg

 

DSC00141.jpg

 

DSC00142.jpg

 

Thanks so much.

Yes one of my brackets with the stainless thread was broken and I had a friend who is an engineer rebuild one. I have had the stainless powder coated gloss black and it looks great. I scraped all the old sealer off and ran a strip of sealing foam that was about 1cm thick across where the old stuff used to be. Great tip re roof releasing the pressure. 

I can see how the sunvisor bracket bring it all together.

I see the rubber that is on the side of the windscreen is what I am trying to sort out now. Is it just fixed with weatherstrip adhesive? and how long is it. The previous owner purchased a roof weatherproofing set I am just trying to identify this rubber from the kit. 

Cheers

Steve

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There is a water barrier that goes inside the stainless windshield trim. You probably had some gooey stick mess inside the stainless trim, see pic. That was the old seal that was there. I just go to home supply and get closed cell foam with sticky back to go in there. If you do not water will be forced under the trim and come inside the car. Here are some pictures to help clarify. I am holding a tape measure to show the gap that the foam needs to fill up between the upper windshield frame and the stainless.

You also have one screw in the side trim at the bottom that you have to remove the front fenders to get to.

You also need to put strip calk around the fasteners that are on the stainless to stop water there also.

If this is your first vert something that will help keep your rubber seals in shape is. When parked release the top clamps so that the rubber is not compressed. This will make the seals last much longer.

You can polish the stainless also and make it look like new. The rubber seal across the front gets dust and grit in between the rubber and stainless and scuffs it.

If any of your fasteners are broken or the bracket broke loos you will need to repair them. It is a common thing.

 

 

Thanks so much.

Yes one of my brackets with the stainless thread was broken and I had a friend who is an engineer rebuild one. I have had the stainless powder coated gloss black and it looks great. I scraped all the old sealer off and ran a strip of sealing foam that was about 1cm thick across where the old stuff used to be. Great tip re roof releasing the pressure. 

I can see how the sunvisor bracket bring it all together.

I see the rubber that is on the side of the windscreen is what I am trying to sort out now. Is it just fixed with weatherstrip adhesive? and how long is it. The previous owner purchased a roof weatherproofing set I am just trying to identify this rubber from the kit. 

Cheers

Steve

 

These are from the Ford shop and assembly manuals. Still not very clear, but they may help. Essentially, the is a stainless channel that starts about midpoint in the door jamb and runs up the A-pillar to the top corner of the windshield. There is a rubber weather strip the is inserted into this channel to seal the door jamb and door glass to the A-pillar. I'll try to get a few pics later.

 

 

20190228-090427-1-1.jpg

 

20190228-092606.jpg

1973 H Code Convertible - Medium Copper Metallic - June 8, 1973, Built Ford Marketing Sales Vehicle

DSC_0266xsm.jpg

satellite.png Proud Space Junk Award Winner!

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The seal you are talking about goes down the A post and to the lower end of the A post. The original had the foam tape between the stainless / aluminum channel that the rubber goes into. There is one phillips screw at the bottom to hold the molded end of the seal on.

I do not use the foam tape my original 73 Mach 1 leaked at the roof rail horribly due to the tape not keeping the water out.

Here are some pictures of what I use. You can also get the 3-M strip caulk in a box at the automotive parts stores. Expensive like $28.00 a box.

You can get the less expensive strip caulk at the home improvement store like in the pic. It does not harden over time and works fine.

The other roll of black 3-M material is what you put the windshield in with. It is also pretty expensive but does not harden and is probably the best thing.

 

DSC-1797.jpg

 

DSC-1798.jpg

 

DSC-2161.jpg

 

DSC-2162.jpg

 

DSC-2163.jpg

 

DSC-2165.jpg

 

DSC-2167.jpg

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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The seal you are talking about goes down the A post and to the lower end of the A post. The original had the foam tape between the stainless / aluminum channel that the rubber goes into. There is one phillips screw at the bottom to hold the molded end of the seal on.

I do not use the foam tape my original 73 Mach 1 leaked at the roof rail horribly due to the tape not keeping the water out.

Here are some pictures of what I use. You can also get the 3-M strip caulk in a box at the automotive parts stores. Expensive like $28.00 a box.

You can get the less expensive strip caulk at the home improvement store like in the pic. It does not harden over time and works fine.

The other roll of black 3-M material is what you put the windshield in with. It is also pretty expensive but does not harden and is probably the best thing.

 

DSC-1797.jpg

 

DSC-1798.jpg

 

DSC-2161.jpg

 

DSC-2162.jpg

 

DSC-2163.jpg

 

DSC-2165.jpg

 

DSC-2167.jpg

Awesome thanks so much. Those pictures are great. I will see if I have that strip in my box of weatherstrips that came with the car. The window was just put in with modern windscreen sealant by the glazier and we ran a bead of 1cm thick foam tape across the top. I havent run any down on the inside of the two stainless outer covers that do down the A pillars but I might add it there too as they look like they may rattle. Im not taking my fenders off to fix the bottom screw tho! Hell thats a big job and I need to get the car complied and on the road! I will post some photos on Monday (Sunday US time) when I take it to compliance.

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