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Summer deadline - 72 Mach 1 Build thread


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trial fitting it to make some markers, will clean surround metal on original floorpan and mark up some measurements. Cutting comes much later, might get some clico pins to help. Looks like a good fit, some overhanging will need to be trimmed back.

 

 

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This brings me back memories. It took me a lot of long work but it was all worth it. I learned a lot and don't regret any of it. Some people here says it is easy. I say it is hard but doable if this is your first sheetmetal work. Keep the good work and take a look at my floor thread that has a diary of all i went through. I hope it serves as a guide and saves you time. Good luck!

 

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20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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This brings me back memories. It took me a lot of long work but it was all worth it. I learned a lot and don't regret any of it. Some people here says it is easy. I say it is hard but doable if this is your first sheetmetal work. Keep the good work and take a look at my floor thread that has a diary of all i went through. I hope it serves as a guide and saves you time. Good luck!

 

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Will do thanks, i plan to have both in by end of easter weekend so will be checking over lots of threads to learn from them. the most scariest bit is going to be cutting out old floor and making sure new one aligns - welding is easy.

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This brings me back memories. It took me a lot of long work but it was all worth it. I learned a lot and don't regret any of it. Some people here says it is easy. I say it is hard but doable if this is your first sheetmetal work. Keep the good work and take a look at my floor thread that has a diary of all i went through. I hope it serves as a guide and saves you time. Good luck!

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

Will do thanks, i plan to have both in by end of easter weekend so will be checking over lots of threads to learn from them. the most scariest bit is going to be cutting out old floor and making sure new one aligns - welding is easy.

 

This time next week will be 20 degrees so better working conditions for you. You wouldnt have purchased the floor pans if you didnt have the confidence. I am sure you will do a excellent job with due diligence. Spring finally coming so it should step up the work rate for most of us all. Hope you hit your target for your summer deadline. There will be plenty of winters to work on improving what you dont get around to doing this spring

Steve

1971 Grande

 

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This brings me back memories. It took me a lot of long work but it was all worth it. I learned a lot and don't regret any of it. Some people here says it is easy. I say it is hard but doable if this is your first sheetmetal work. Keep the good work and take a look at my floor thread that has a diary of all i went through. I hope it serves as a guide and saves you time. Good luck!

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

Will do thanks, i plan to have both in by end of easter weekend so will be checking over lots of threads to learn from them. the most scariest bit is going to be cutting out old floor and making sure new one aligns - welding is easy.

 

This time next week will be 20 degrees so better working conditions for you. You wouldnt have purchased the floor pans if you didnt have the confidence. I am sure you will do a excellent job with due diligence. Spring finally coming so it should step up the work rate for most of us all. Hope you hit your target for your summer deadline. There will be plenty of winters to work on improving what you dont get around to doing this spring

thanks Steve, I hope so, I've been checking the weather frequently so looking forward to some warmer days....I really want to get the car to paint this summer. talking of which, if you know a good place you would recommend let me know. Maybe a little premature, let me get this finished first !

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Will do thanks, i plan to have both in by end of easter weekend so will be checking over lots of threads to learn from them. the most scariest bit is going to be cutting out old floor and making sure new one aligns - welding is easy.

 

This time next week will be 20 degrees so better working conditions for you. You wouldnt have purchased the floor pans if you didnt have the confidence. I am sure you will do a excellent job with due diligence. Spring finally coming so it should step up the work rate for most of us all. Hope you hit your target for your summer deadline. There will be plenty of winters to work on improving what you dont get around to doing this spring

thanks Steve, I hope so, I've been checking the weather frequently so looking forward to some warmer days....I really want to get the car to paint this summer. talking of which, if you know a good place you would recommend let me know. Maybe a little premature, let me get this finished first !

 

I had 4 differant companies quote me £10k for bare metal respray. Then i chanced across a sprayer in his 60's that asked all the right questions about lines  and finishes. He has quoted me £3,5000, I asked around and he is supposed to be one of the best locally. Always good to plan ahead in the UK as specialist are few and far between when it comes to classic American cars. I will keep you updated on how my spray job goes

Steve

1971 Grande

 

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I cut out most of the drivers side floor pan and took measurements to determine floor height and location of key points, given there is supporting frame rail this makes it easier to sit the new pan. Tomorrow I hope to have the spot welds all out. I did try and take off steering wheel to make the welding easier but naively thought i wouldnt need the puller, so another job for me to do. My cut alignment to where i butt weld is going to be a bit up and down as i want to avoid cutting seat belt mounting point etc.... slow but steady progress.

 

 

qg2n-It3t-Q9-SZx-Vk0-L3-Lvwg.jpg

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This time next week will be 20 degrees so better working conditions for you. You wouldnt have purchased the floor pans if you didnt have the confidence. I am sure you will do a excellent job with due diligence. Spring finally coming so it should step up the work rate for most of us all. Hope you hit your target for your summer deadline. There will be plenty of winters to work on improving what you dont get around to doing this spring

thanks Steve, I hope so, I've been checking the weather frequently so looking forward to some warmer days....I really want to get the car to paint this summer. talking of which, if you know a good place you would recommend let me know. Maybe a little premature, let me get this finished first !

 

I had 4 differant companies quote me £10k for bare metal respray. Then i chanced across a sprayer in his 60's that asked all the right questions about lines  and finishes. He has quoted me £3,5000, I asked around and he is supposed to be one of the best locally. Always good to plan ahead in the UK as specialist are few and far between when it comes to classic American cars. I will keep you updated on how my spray job goes

cool, will follow your progress and hopefully if you go ahead he will do a sterling job.

When i get to mine, i will have done all the prep work and stripped back to bare metal and epoxy primer the body and leave as shell with everything removed, and then let painter do all finishing and final prep before painting.

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not as much progress as I'd liked by this stage of the weekend, sister called in a favour to do the kitchen flooring.....

 

headliner and surrounding fitments came off revealing tons of surface rust (screwdriver didnt poke through) to deal with. This needs to come before i fit the replacement floorpans.

 

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Meantime, as the weather has been great i painted some panels on the fold down seat (no pics)

 

Cleaned surrounding welds on the driver side floor pan by the footwell, sills and frame rails, ready for new panel installation. Next steps, weld through primer, spot weld drill holes and cutting the tunnel section so alignment is perfect.

 

 

 

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Managed to end the day with my first panel fabrication using a metal bending tool. Some fettling still to do to get it 100% but I was impressed with initial fit given that was 20 minutes effort.

 

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Still tons to do but I'm moving forward, once i get roof rust-remedied can then work on interior proper. One other thing, i came to the realisation that as 80% of the car is out of the car, I'll remove all the rest till I'm just left with the bodyshell and then refit everything. Will take longer but will avoid me thinking what I missed off and having to disassemble again....

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things are progressing slower than i would like so i will stop putting timescales on effort and just keep moving along, we call it plodding over here :)

 

ok so I've welded in the patch. next steps, patch in the top lip section that I cut to cure the rust underneath, will need to mock spot welds, grind, weld in pinholes, grind, fill, smooth and primer,Also discovered another pinhole that grew and need to fill it too. Once this patch is done will do other side rear floor patch, then roof interior rust before moving back to floor pans.

 

 

fullsizeoutput-134a.jpg

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Good to hear you are positive about progress. As long as you can picture the car finished you will always makes steps forward. Some will be giant steps and some will be small

Steve

1971 Grande

 

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Wow, you've done a lot already!

Not setting any time scale is the way to go.

These cars are like this game where you have music playing, and 1 chair misses each round. The music stops. One is out.

Previous owners got the chairs, now there's is no more chairs left and rust has to be fixed for real. No more quick rust makeup or no makeup at all.

One part at a time at your own pace will get you there!

 

How do you plan treat the roof?

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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Wow, you've done a lot already!

Not setting any time scale is the way to go.

These cars are like this game where you have music playing, and 1 chair misses each round. The music stops. One is out.

Previous owners got the chairs, now there's is no more chairs left and rust has to be fixed for real. No more quick rust makeup or no makeup at all.

One part at a time at your own pace will get you there!

 

How do you plan treat the roof?

thanks. The roof, its keeping me up at night lol part of me is thinking i need to remove all the support panels, they are only thinly welded. this will then give me full access to the roof. So, I was planning on wirewheeling it, then treating it with Kurust, then using POR15 or FE123 Rust Convertor then POR15 then prime....

 

what looks like has happened to cause the rust in the first place is that condensation has settled in the roof and dripped onto the felt lining and this created an environment for the rust to bed in, and the thinly painted roof didnt help protect against rust, ... I literally had to scrape away the lining it was stuck to the rusty roof....

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Good to hear you are positive about progress. As long as you can picture the car finished you will always makes steps forward. Some will be giant steps and some will be small

 

Agreed thanks, i do sometimes think I've got too deep into this, but to be honest, i can see the end of the welding, my bigger concern will be putting everything back together correctly, that will take time and involve a lot of posting on this forum for help!

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Good to hear you are positive about progress. As long as you can picture the car finished you will always makes steps forward. Some will be giant steps and some will be small

Very well said Steve. I could not agree more.

- Mike

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Good to hear you are positive about progress. As long as you can picture the car finished you will always makes steps forward. Some will be giant steps and some will be small

 

Agreed thanks, i do sometimes think I've got too deep into this, but to be honest, i can see the end of the welding, my bigger concern will be putting everything back together correctly, that will take time and involve a lot of posting on this forum for help!

 

If you take any more parts off make sure to take pictures and label EVERYTHING you take off with a note attached giving instruction of where it came from.

Steve

1971 Grande

 

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A small step for your car a giant leap for the builder....

Keep the good work. It takes time to get it done right but what is important is to be proud of your work and tou can say thay you did it. Good work takes time.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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ground down the welds on upper side this evening. Next i will fill the hole to the right which i drilled out to extend onto good metal, using copper backing hopefully it will work. Then grind down underside and finally patch strip metal and then fill and prime.....

 

 

 

fullsizeoutput-134c.jpg

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Thats another job ticked off the list. Is the small hole the last of the welding or is there more to do?

 

On the piece i just welded there is a small strip of metal to join up at the top where it was spot welded, plus the hole. I'll try to do that tomorrow evening. Then onto the passenger side I will need to fabricate and weld a similar panel.

 

As my welding gets back up to speed I should pick up momentum .....

 

Other welding jobs to do that I am aware of ....

 

both side floorpans - driver side ready to go, just holding off until roof rust sorted and windscreen taken out

Trunk floor - 3 patches. One section cut and ready to weld, othrers are small pieces.

Battery fender apron. I need a spot welder for this, so will do this last, trying to locate one I can borrow locally

Driver side rear wheel arch behind rear fender there is a rust hole - its a small section that commonly gets the rot, will have to cut out and fabricate.

 

Oh and the dreaded cowl. I dont think i need to weld here but will check by inspecting from under dashboard or cutting section out from top to see into cowl.

 

Once that's done its onwards and upwards !

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All those are the same places i found rust in my car. Very typical.

Are you butt welding the floor panel?

To inspect the cowl a snake camera should do the job. You can look at about 3/4 of it through the air inlets back of the hood and the other 1/4 through the drain hole that is hidden by the front fender. From the inside you should be able to inspect the rest. Good luck.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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All those are the same places i found rust in my car. Very typical.

Are you butt welding the floor panel?

To inspect the cowl a snake camera should do the job. You can look at about 3/4 of it through the air inlets back of the hood and the other 1/4 through the drain hole that is hidden by the front fender. From the inside you should be able to inspect the rest. Good luck.

 

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Yes, will be butt welding the floor pans, in fact its really the only welding i do when joining panels.

 

Thanks, yes i noted from an earlier post the snake camera for the cowl will definitely get one, also want to get into the torque boxes to see what's lurking there.

 

Tonight i did very little, cut the lip section for the patch to fit in, and ground down the underside welds on the patch panel. Not all the welds have penetrated through but enough for solidity, and i i will use seam sealer then primer on the underneath.

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Today, I finished off the driver side panel. Painted and primed top and bottom sides. I then discovered some pinholes which were due to me grinding the underside and exposing weld gaps due to lack of penetration. I wanted to get the primer on to avoid rust returning, and will weld in later. I will also use seam sealer to fill around the areas where i filled holes to make it look factory.

 

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Now onto the other side.

 

I made a template and folded some zinc coated sheet metal (slightly thicker gauge about 0.1mm thicker as its harder to get the correct sheet metal thickness in the UK)

I then lay it over the original and marked around the edges and cut. I also took out spot welds to avoid having to patch a piece at the top. Still have some fettling to do, for some reason this side took longer and had more issues than driver side.

 

 

 

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