Jump to content

Summer deadline - 72 Mach 1 Build thread


Recommended Posts

I removed the brake booster today. It was fiddly and i dont know how i'm going to put everything back together lol. Does anyone know if there is some factory marking to indicate whether booster is original or repro ? also is there a bench test one can do to test it works ? apologies if this has been asked before.

 

also i was struggling today to remove the steering column, all the bolts are removed on the firewall side, what do i need to disconnect on the engine bay side ?

 

I'll try and take some pics tomorrow.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 138
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The clamp between the rag joint and steering box, that connects the rag joint to the steering box input shaft. One bolt. You can also remove two bolts that hold the rag joint together. You'll also need to remove the firewall plate/clamp from the inside.

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a "donor" 71 grille, but it's different for 72. Otherwise, I'd cut a bit you need (if still on the donor).

 

The booster seams be the correct one, tho, looks on picts like a 9 inch. Both my cars have originally an 11. I know you can have both sizes, but I don't know why they are not all of same size. My 73's is refurbished(exterior), my 71 was busted, full of brake fluid. Replaced it with a new one, as sending for repair was too crazy, but have only managed to find a new 9. Kept the old one, in case I ever find a place to let it rebuild or find the parts needed for a rebuild.

If you manage to find a serial, I'm sure @Secluff will tell you where it was made and when!

 

[ i dont know how i'm going to put everything back together lol.]

I know the feeling, don't think about that now! :)

 

btw what happened to one of the steering pump tube/base? I detect from the non-round shape the use of "illegalOnMustang" tooling :D

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a "donor" 71 grille, but it's different for 72. Otherwise, I'd cut a bit you need (if still on the donor).

 

The booster seams be the correct one, tho, looks on picts like a 9 inch. Both my cars have originally an 11. I know you can have both sizes, but I don't know why they are not all of same size. My 73's is refurbished(exterior), my 71 was busted, full of brake fluid. Replaced it with a new one, as sending for repair was too crazy, but have only managed to find a new 9. Kept the old one, in case I ever find a place to let it rebuild or find the parts needed for a rebuild.

If you manage to find a serial, I'm sure @Secluff will tell you where it was made and when! 

 

 

 

[ i dont know how i'm going to put everything back together lol.]

I know the feeling, don't think about that now! :)

 

[btw what happened to one of the steering pump tube/base? I detect from the non-round shape the use of "illegalOnMustang" tooling :D]

 

 

re grill, thanks - I'll send some pics of the bits that are missing to see if this works for your donor pieces

 

re booster -So, reason i asked, was same as you i guess, if my part was repro, i would hesitate less to just get it replaced with a new one than send it for repair or try to repair it myself. Surprised you gave up on that option ;)

 

Steering pump removal was a disaster, you just reminded me, i need to get that sorted as well.... 

 

oh did i forget to mention ? My summer deadline will be coinciding with the 50th anniversary of the car - summer 2022 :=) gives me plenty of time to get a degree in plating, plastic welding, soup making, the works..... maybe even paint spraying....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The clamp between the rag joint and steering box, that connects the rag joint to the steering box input shaft. One bolt. You can also remove two bolts that hold the rag joint together.  You'll also need to remove the firewall plate/clamp from the inside.

 

thanks Don, will give it a go. the firewall plate bolts are now loose and ready to come off just wasnt sure of the engine bsy side....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

The clamp between the rag joint and steering box, that connects the rag joint to the steering box input shaft. One bolt. You can also remove two bolts that hold the rag joint together.  You'll also need to remove the firewall plate/clamp from the inside.

 

thanks Don, will give it a go. the firewall plate bolts are now loose and ready to come off just wasnt sure of the engine bsy side....

Been awhile since i last posted, had to take a bit of an enforced career break, now trying to get the project back on track.

 

Removed passenger side seat pan. will reuse this but need to do some minor welding.

 

Preparing the driver side replacement floor for installation... have come across an issue, wondering how other folks have overcome ?.... the front of the floor near the tunnel is not seating correctly, do i need to create some cuts in the floorpan to ease pressure on it so it sits correctly. My approach is to spot weld using punched holes on the sill, front and back sides, and on the tunnel to screw in some metal hex screws to align tunnel to replacement pan and then to cut a line across and then to butt weld in across the cut line once it has been secured using clamps.

 

KB-IR19-ER-m-MZYwld-HR31-A.jpg

 

GNbdih-Kz-RAib4uy-Sx9p4e-Q.jpg

 

6-DTc2u-Ss-Tm-SHQMY55-Y4-Ia-A.jpg

 

gfze88h-OR4-Czp-GE1h-Tju-g.jpg

 

D2a-M3-GMSgm-UU3a-JFj5-Rkg.jpg

 

qrk-Yf-Emm-QHud-YJHQz6-Rbg.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When I did mine I shaped it as I was welding. Sometimes I had to use a hammer sometime just pushing against it with the hammer. Probably it will depend on how much of a gap you are trying to close.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thanks for the suggestion, I put a 12kb kettle bell on the floor pan to hold it down and its improved fit. there's about a 1cm gap at the front when I look from below. I want to avoid having to guess the gap and cut it only to find it too short. I will fettle a little more and then cut it a little short to give me something to play with and then weld.

I am getting there and the fit overall looks good, one issue is the floor height is around 0.3cm taller than prior floor as the sill lip is shorter than the original floor pan. I guess i can live with that as it will give a little more headroom.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You could use self taping screws or cleco's for this. then you sure you have the same alignment each time you take the patch back in place after you have changed something.

You also prevent cut too much doing this way.

You can hammer it in as you go, but if your part has too much tension, you can be sure the tension will be released in some form or another at some point.

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I used Clecos and self drilling hex head screws when installing mine. Screwed it down to the floor support, then to the rocker and the rear torque box. Finally leveled and adjusted the fit working my way around the tunnel side of the pan.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

been struggling a bit this weekend with the replacement floor pan, advice welcome.

 

Where i am trying to join two panels together where it was factory spot welded, the panels keep separating during welding, its like I'm not doing the weld correctly or there is an earthing issue.

 

I've tried welding next to the hex screws where panels are joined together. I have to admit i have used a conventional mig without the spot welding attachment, will that make a difference ?

 

also many pin holes needing to be filled hence uneven welds....

 

 

1tmt-WSGf-QHWWm-Cz4-Paw-BVQ.jpg

 

fullsizeoutput-17d3.jpg

 

Ky5f-F-6i-SUOKGu-VP6-Lua4w.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Turn your heat up. Looks like your weld is sitting on top and not penetrating down through to 2nd layer. When it’s hot enough the 2nd panel will actually have a hump coming through on bottom side. No special tip needed. Also after I do my weld and it’s still cherry red I tap it with my flat body hammer. Helps pull them together while they are hot.

Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Turn your heat up. Looks like your weld is sitting on top and not penetrating down through to 2nd layer.  When it’s hot enough the 2nd panel will actually have a hump coming through on bottom side.  No special tip needed. Also after I do my weld and it’s still cherry red I tap it with my flat body hammer. Helps pull them together while they are hot.

 

thanks, i didn't think to do that. will try that and report back.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Listen to Kevin. He was extremely helpful when I welded mine together. One of the mistakes I made when I was learning to weld is keeping the heat down too much. I kept making holes in the metal so I solved this by lowering the amps, which is not necessarily a good idea. With time and experience I learned to weld without poking holes. It has to do with building the weld pool slightly before moving and then not moving too fast, but just enough to keep the pool with the tip. Hard to explain. It is all about practice. Now, my happy setting is to follow the recommendation of the chart but adding about one or half a number to the amps. I tend to weld better at a higher amps.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Listen to Kevin. He was extremely helpful when I welded mine together. One of the mistakes I made when I was learning to weld is keeping the heat down too much. I kept making holes in the metal so I solved this by lowering the amps, which is not necessarily a good idea. With time and experience I learned to weld without poking holes. It has to do with building the weld pool slightly before moving and then not moving too fast, but just enough to keep the pool with the tip. Hard to explain. It is all about practice. Now, my happy setting is to follow the recommendation of the chart but adding about one or half a number to the amps. I tend to weld better at a higher amps.

 

thanks both, increasing the heat setting did the trick and it worked so big lesson learned. one of the issues with my welder (its a GYS smartmig so pretty good standard for DIYer like me) is the poor design of the control knob, i could blow on it and it moves.... many a time the knob has gone to a higher setting and it blew through the welded metal. This created an obsession on my part in keeping the temp set low and hence i didn't think to push it up for spot welds. I'm also learning and this was a good insight ans in future I will adjust setting to the need.....

 

the downside is my welds are a little 'blobby' making more work of sanding/grinding down, but hopefully with practice this will come down to a neat thin blob...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

hello all :) happy Xmas to y'all. signing back in after a bit of a hiatus and stalled progress with the car, i.e. nothing really done in over a year. Lame I know... Hope everyone is safe and well and covid free. 

I'd previously left the thread having partially completed welding one floorpan back in with some welds to redo due to lack of penetration into the lower panels. I've put that to the side and decided to work on rust proofing the shell and doing a load of archeology on the panels to find where replacements are needed before i return to proper welding.

I've spent the past 2 weeks back in earnest working on the car on the following sections and will detail with pics in subsequent posts...

1. Inner wheel arches and quarter panels. applied rustbuster fe123 rust remover and red zinc primer on all inner panels, sanding where i could physically reach the metal.

2. Roof. removed center support brace panel and derusted and primed. cleaned rust on inside of roof, there was some pitting but I didn't want to replace the complete roof skin for the sake of a couple of sections, i think it will be ok. Difficult to get into all the nooks and crannies in the side panels but I've done the best I could.

3. Trunk. some holes in trunk floor, mainly pinholes but more rusty sections at rear. I have marked them ready for welding. I've decided against replacing the complete trunk floor as it is solid on the whole and |I want originality above everything else. Both quarter sides have rust holes in lower quarter panels and trunk drop off on the left hand side, right is ok. Have spent ages with hands in crevices trying to remove all the rust. i will order a left hand trunk drop off panel but will patch in clean metal into the underside of quarter panels. I do not want a 50/50 car (50% replacement panels, just my personal preference) and thankfully have got to the rust in time to fix most. will go into the repairs in more detail and would appreciate some advice along the way, particularly on the trunk drop off panel, and cutting a repairing seams around where the quarter panel connects with tail panel.

4. Underside of car. in. really good condition, very little rust, cleaned off all the underseal to leave the tunnel (slop grey obsessives note: thre underside tunnel is primed in slop grey!). have a couple of minor repairs to do.

5. Exhaust hangers. was going to buy replacement. In the end I decided to just clean and paint them.

6. Rear window surround. cleaned off all the gooey sealant and sanded back to bare metal, primed. couple of areas will require welding as there are pinholes and heavy pitting

7. Front window surround. As per rear window,  cleaned off sealant, back to bare metal and primed. top corners have some panel separation so interested to understand what i need to do get back to factory...

8. Engine bay and cowl. I've started sanding back to bare metal and rust proofing and priming. I'm doing this in sections and hope to have this completed by end of year. once done I will then get back to fitting the front inner right hand fender support panel and the remaining welding..... I see a couple of folks in the other build threads are also on these sections :)

random pics with questions to follow...

Edited by baz70
Link to comment
Share on other sites

front window surround. removed sealant, took back to bare metal. any advice on the top corner welds/joins ? how does the roof panel join to the window frame ? is it lead soldered ?

72 Mach 1

 

72 Mach 1 72 Mach 1

 

 

 

Edited by baz70
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you are trying to improve the joining I would braze it. Hammer and dolly as flat as possible and then fill in the low paces with brazing which will not come loose like bondo would. You can fill in rust pits with brazing also then prime and good to go.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

×
×
  • Create New...