1965 Mustang Build

Hello, I have a 65 mustang straight 6. I want to put a huge big block V8 because it would be loud, fun, powerful to drive. Just want to build it for a crazy weekend cruiser. I want to go to the junk yard and maybe buy old Ford F-350 and pull motor, tranny, and rear end but not sure if that a good route to start? Need a bit of direction. And I also do not plan on dropping a insane amount of cash on this project just want to build something cool.

Anything is possible with passion, determination, skill and money. Our hobby makes us happy or we wouldnt do it. Build your car in a way that makes you happy

Hello, I have a 65 mustang straight 6. I want to put a huge big block V8 because it would be loud, fun, powerful to drive........ I also do not plan on dropping a insane amount of cash on this project just want to build something cool.

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I wish you the best of luck on your endeavor. Not saying it can't be done, but a 460 in a '65 requires removal of the shocktowers and a completely different front suspension, which equals $$$$

If you want loud, fast and fun to drive with minimal effort, get a 351C with the 4V heads. No shock tower mods required.

Sounds fun. You could also opt for Tim Mayer's iron or aluminum blocks which are based on a Cleveland but can be stroked to I think 440s. It should drop in with little mods.

Check his website out: tmeyerinc.com

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Coyote swaps are popular right now but I might look for a crashed 07-14 GT 500 with Supercharged 5.4

I think the coyote is even wider than a 460?

An F350 has a full floating rear axle, not suitable for normal car wheels, some are for duals, axles are way too wide.

Here's what it takes to put a 385 series engine in a '65 Mustang:

http://www.mustangandfords.com/featured-vehicles/mufp-0601-1965-ford-mustang-fastback/

If your considering doing this on a shoestring budget, you might want to reconsider it. If you are a good welder then it will be much simpler. If not, it will be out of your budget range. This will be a bare minimum of a $10,000 project. That is sourcing your junkyard motor and rebuilding it, doing all the welding yourself, new transmission, linkage, shifter, front suspension, rear axle, driveshaft, axle mounts, shocks, etc....

This will require some major work. Your likely looking at shock tower deletes, a new front cross member with proper engine mounts, you will need some suspension modifications. I would just do a coil over conversion since you will be 75% there with the new cross member anyway. I would just go with the mustang 2 setup like in the link DON C posted.

Then you have to think about running a big block transmission. Will you need to cut the firewall and reshape the tunnel? You will likely need new linkage as well. Depends on what you put in. You could go with a C6 which would likely fit without any issues. A better route would be to get a big block AOD, such as this one. https://fordracingpartsbydonwood.com/driveline-parts/automatic-transmission/aod-big-block-ford-performance-automatic-street-smart-transmission-pass53133/

Then theres the rear axle. That's a ton of torque on a 8" axle, even a stock 9" will be pushing the limit of its specifications. I would go with a new Moser full floating rear end specifically built for muscle cars. Like this one. http://www.moserengineering.com/9-Ford-Auto-Cross-Edition-Full-Float-Rear-End-Package.item

As for which block to look for, give this a read. It might be helpful when deciding which casting series you look for.

http://www.429-460.com/t120-block-info-gathered-by-djohagin

Ideally, a 4 bolt main DOVE-A block is what I would look for.

Sounds more like you think you can, than because you can, lol. Good luck with your build, your gonna need it. And a shovel to did up all the cash you stashed in your backyard. Sorry I couldn’t resist.

But really, it sounds like it would be a cool ride, but I think it would be very expensive. I think you would have much better luck with a built 351 Cleveland. You can easily get into the 500 hp range and have way more choices for the rest of the driveline.

Good luck with whatever you choose to do.

To me It sounds fun. It also is a big project, but don't let that dissuade you. There are some things you are going to have to upgrade for safety. Make sure and use a good driveshaft safety loop that is attached to something more solid than the floor. Put in some good, heavy duty, weld in frame connectors. Get good yokes and use 1350 u joints on both ends. You'll need a custom driveshaft, grab the one that comes with your donor engine and a driveshaft shop can reuse the ends and possibly the tube too. You don't need anything stronger than a 9" rear end unless you are going to tub the rear end and put big sticky tires on it. At that point you need a transmission blanket . Put a simple cage or roll bar set up that ties in above the rear spring perches, the front spring perches and forward to the intersection of the floor, firewall, rocker junction on minimum 6x6x1/8 plates. Dump the stock seats for a racing seat that can be braced to the roll bar. Get used to driving with a helmet on, cause roll bars and heads are incompatible in a collision. You will lose every time.

Get a good fire extinguisher and a mount. Fuel lines will need to be replaced to 1/2 to accommodate fuel usage. Likely you will need to replace the tank, fuel cells are not too badly priced. On the plus side, you won't need heat in the car!

Up front, you may be able to make a crown vic suspension work. pull outs are not too expensive-locally we see them here on Craigslist for $300 or so.

Lots of it can be done on the cheap and certain things can be cruder than on a show car. You will need some welding done. If you can't do it, then expect a professional to charge about 3 grand for the various welding that you will need.