Aus 2V Heads

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Dashbrazil

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Jul 3, 2011
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Location
South Carolina
My Car
1972 Ford Mustang Sprint, 2V
I've heard a lot about the Australian 2V heads, are they really ported that much better? I was going to get some hooker headers, an airgap, holley 600 and the Aus2V's replace the valve train while I'm in there with this paycheck. What are the benefits of going with the Aus2Vs? I'm normally not too concerned with everything I do effecting horsepower but I've heard there's more to be found in the Aus's as well. Anyone care to chime in? Not sure what the next paycheck will go to, probably an MSD setup. Disposable income, I better enjoy it while it lasts :angel:

 
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I picked up a set of aussie 2v heads. They are closed chambered heads where the stock 351C 2v heads as well as the 4v heads are open chambered heads. The closed chambered heads increase compression ratio, not sure about the porting. Had screw in studs installed, new guides, new manley valves, comp cams springs and 1.6 (I think) roller rockers. Have not started the motor since the rebuild so I am anxious to see how much improvement my combo has. Also new comp cam, performer intake, 750 holley and sanderson headers.

Here are a couple of pics, top is stock 351c 2v head and second is aussie. Hope this helps.

351c 2v heads.jpg

head2.jpg

 
aussie heads are nice...so are any 4v cj head..better move up too a 750cfm carb and a decent lift cam if you move up too heads like these..or its kinda a waste ..you can get a set of 4v heads closed and open for a good decent price still...and will flow way more that you will ever need on the street or track....and dont be afraid of open chambered heads now days...they do breath a bit little better than closed chambered..but not as much compression..and like the new gas a little better over all...unless you plan to run pure race fuel and want high compression..which you can get out of open chambered now days anyways with all the high domed pistons....a 4v open or closed chamberd cleveland head can flow up too 800 horse power or more if tricked out .....im putting just a 525 lift cam..750 holley...stock 4v heads with shims..hooker headers...and according to jegs..ill be getting around 425 too 450hp...i had to dump my new 600 elderbrock thou...it couldnt handle it even all jetted out..lol

 
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I would go with the 4V's with the open chambers if I were doing it.Just alot less work involved and alot more potential.The closed chambers are great,I run them, but like was said I do have to mix my gas because of detenation(knock).I never had to do that with the open chamber heads. As was said the 600 Holley is just to small for the big Clevelands they do like alot of fuel! Be sure and up grade to the one peice valves and good rocker arms no mater what head you use! The secret to the 4V heads is in the torque converter( for autos) and the gearing. The Clevelands all use the 1:73 ratio rocker arms,not the 1:6s.Good luck!

 
Dashbrazil,

If I were you, I would go with the "original" intent for the "paycheck", that is get the exhaust taken care of first - - get the headers an a decent set of mufflers.

As to the Australian 2V heads, I have heard they are nice (for some applications) but for what you seem to be going for, I believe there are "better" things you could do with your money. As stated and/or inferred by "hyena429" and "FastE", there is REALLY nothing wrong with ANY of the Cleveland heads as long as they are set up for the application. The "Open" chambered heads do have the harden valve seats which help when running unleaded gas. You can get almost any compression ratio you want through the matching of the appropriate pistons. The same can be said for the "Quench" (closed chamber heads).

So, it really comes down to your deciding what you REALLY want out of the car and deciding whether or not you want to build on what you got now or go in a different direction. In the end, it is ALL about matching the parts to get the desired results.

Hope this helps!

BT

 
I would run Aussie 2V heads, mild hydro flat tappet cam, some headers, and a good ignition (I like a MSD 6A and Blaster II coil). The Aussie heads give alot of quench and this helps the whole performance package. I would go with the Scorpion brand pedestal mount roller rockers and this way you don't need to spend all the money for screw in studs and guide plates and machine work to have them installed. I would stay away from hydrualic roller cams in a Cleveland because they are very expensive and some brands can cause a harmful drop in oil persure when the lifter is at max lift as the lifter oil slot may become exposed above the top of the lifter bore. Also custom pushrods will be needed because the roller lifters are very tall. Hope this helps.

Andy

IMGP1481.JPG

 
Placed my order for the MSD 6A/BlasterII setup and some hookers. As far as the heads go I think I'm just going to pull the 2Vs and clean them up with the money saved. Where would a good place be to start on getting the current 2Vs fixed up?

I was looking at either the Holley 0-80670 or 800 CFM Thunder from Edelbrock for a carb. I've heard good things about the Demons but not enough good things to spend the extra money for it. Since the intake and the carb will be spaced two weeks apart would you get the carb or the airgap first? I still have the motorcraft on there, not sure if the new carb would be too much for the current stock setup since she still has to drive in the meantime.

 
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For a stock motor I would find a used Edelbrock Performer 2V and then put an Edelbrock 600 CFM carb on that. Summit sells the carbs as factory rebuilt units and they are cheap. Get some new spark plugs and drop down a heat range to a colder plug and gap them at .050-.055 (I like Autolite 24's). Unless your engine is having some real problems don't pull heads at this time. I think you are going to be happy with the power you pick up just by adding the ignition, headers, intake, and carb. Remember, the power train is a package so if you start adding power many other thing will need work too. With more power comes more heat so you may need more cooling capacity. Putting and more powerful engine in will require higher rear end gears and a higher stall convertor to meet performance goals.

Andy

 
As was mentioned in the previous post, it is a matter of balancing the components selected. The air gap is better suited to a larger cam and more rpm than you are planning on. The Edelbrock site has a little more information on the subject if you want to look. All kinds of information on the subject(s) is available if you want to know more. Most of the time if in doubt about which component to select, less is more. Chuck

 
For one, used it is cheaper than an Air Gap and two your engines RPM range is better suited to the Performer over the Air Gap. The price of the Air Gap alone can get you a used Performer and the factory reconditioned new Edelbrock 600 cfm carburator. Later on you can sell these parts to get new ones that match your needs as your performance level grows.

Andy

 
ya..dont get the air gap unless your pushing some serious hp.....the stock preformer is good up too 450 hp or more....its cheaper...plus the air gap requires atleast a 750 carb and up too a 800 cfm too work right...and the heads to match....without the right combo...you will destroy the motor..i seen alot of people put the wrong manifold on almost stock motors..and complain of the lack of power....well its cause there runing a single plain or high preformance dual plain on a allmost stock motor...with a carb that is too small...it cant breath like that...like taping your mouth shut and putting a pin hole in the tape to breath threw..hehe...if you wanna step up into..heads..carb..pistons...then get the airgap...but only if you plan for over 450 horse power.

 
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I have open 4v heads but other than that I have everything else talked about, performer intake, hooker headers, MSD ignition. I did have a 600 edelbrock carb but I switched it out for a 750 demon and actually lost a little bit of throttle response, I should have went with a double pumper style. Barry Grant went bankrupt anyways and I don't see there products in parts catalogs anymore.

Overall for a street car those basic parts will really wake up a car, along with some new rear gears.

 
Cleaning up my Performer intake and trying to pick between the Edelbrock 1405 600cfm performer or the Edelbrock 1805 650 Thunder AVS. After this the next move is headers, would I be better off getting the Thunder? I'm not too sure why I'd go one over the other right now other than the price difference :huh:

 
i did the ausie 3v style, and love every min of it, yes i did put a hydro roller cam in with roller rockers and the whole 9 yards but a "paycheck" will not cover what i did. Had to save for a while i did the hole thing on my cleveland but everyone else is right, how will you drive it...and what to you want it to drive like? i wanted mine like a scalded ape goin down the street. i dont really care about mpg (even though i put an aod in) if you want a street cruser with some get up and go... yes headders,exhaust, maybe x or h pipe its not much more if your getting new pipes on as it is NO air gap intake... msd or equivlent and yes rear end gears!!! and if your looking at new cam and what not comp cams has this cool program called camquest more or less just plug in what you want and it will tell you what cam you need, and also comp sells the camkits that have everything matched to your cam like pushrods @ right length ect hope that helps

 
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