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Rear Quarter Panel Replacement

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IMG_0724.thumb.jpg.f7af5914a41f89315b592970184ba239.jpgI am looking to replace outer wheel houses and quarter panels both sides on my 1971 Mach 1. I have gotten some fenders that do not fit worth a darn. They were made by CHL auto parts - part # 469-50R and 469-50R. They are so far off that the chrome trim for the wheel wells do not fit them! Is anyone actually finding any parts that are somewhat half decent. I have even bought a door-- Dynacorn that I ended up cutting up to repair the door on the car. It just would not fit.  Any ideas, help, direction would be appreciated.


Most recent picture below, showing in body shop!


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Well, from your pic your quarter looks pretty solid, so it would help to understand why you need to replace and why the full 1/4?


My car I used original donors from other cars, then used the lower 1/4 patch to cover the area behind the wheel.  A lot of bodywork to replace the full 1/4 as it goes into the rear window channel, the trunk seal channel and into the B-pillar.  Why not just blend the lower 1/4 since, as you have pointed out, there are fit problems with nearly every 1/4. 


Understanding your need for the 1/4 s can help.  If tubbung out I would not use factory metal.  If looking for original, there is at least one NOS on eBay.



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Sheetmetal surgery is going to involve a lot of  panel beating unless you have incredible luck.


I’ve used Goodmark brand trunk drops and Goodmark brand quarter panel patches (made in Canada) The trunk drops from them seem to be the closest thing out there, the quarter panel patches seem to be hit and miss (sloppy forming where it wraps up towards the taillight and flange that welds to the trunk drop)   As far as whole quarter panels I didn’t elect to do that on my car.  I only did partial quarter panels, partial outer wheelhouse and trunk drops.  


Don’t have any advise on full panels.  


I ended up buying two sets of trunk drops for the first side, one sacrificial (trimmed the wrong end)  and one that I used.  






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It is sad that they did not do better. But without the original wooden models not much to go by. Even a NOS metal part with no way to hold in correct position for laser scan gives you false data.

I agree with keeping as much of the original Ford metal as possible.

Do only butt joints never lap the joint. Lots of the patch panels come with an offset formed into the panel to do lap joints. Over time they start to show through the paint plus you can see from inside the trunk.

It is pretty common with all panels that you will have to split them add or take out metal to massage them into place.

Not just mustang either. My friend that does restorations was putting a new roof on a 67 Camaro the other day and no way no how was it even close. He got as best he could and then split the panel and had to add probably 3/4" to one of the rear window corners.

That Camaro is one of those projects that never ends. The owner paid $20,000 for it then paid Clay $90,000 for a ground up restore. With all the track upgrades to suspension in front and a 4 link in back with 35 spline 9". The paint used on the car was $800 a quart if I remember right. Was the paint that looks like chrome when done. The car was in owner's garage at home and he came in took a zip wheel and cut a piece of chain off. Left and after he was gone one of the sparks from the cut off wheel started a fire. The car got roasted.

Back to Clay and he put new roof on and new quarters, cowl and some other stuff. The owner took back home and left is sitting outside with no paint on it. After a year he sold the car and all the parts for $10,000 and the new owner brought back to Clay to have some more panel work done.

So the PO had over $110,000 in a car worth maybe $35,000 on the market but sold it all for $10,000.

Just another typical failed built. It will have to be dipped to get the rust off they plastic media blasted but no way ready to paint.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P


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I actually put new dynacorn full quarters and doors on. They needed a little tweaking but actually fit pretty good. I could of gotten by with lower patch panels but honestly didn’t want to deal with the possible issues with the seem later.



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