How Many Cranks Til Your Mach Starts?

7173Mustangs.com

Help Support 7173Mustangs.com:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

icejawa

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 16, 2016
Messages
312
Reaction score
2
Location
cleveland
My Car
1971 Mach 1 M Code,2003 Mach Azure Blue
Hey everyone,

I'm back yet again looking for the general consensus on how quickly a 351 4v should fire up. This summer my car appears to be fully tuned properly, but it literally takes 5 cranks to fire up. I suspect my choke has been wired improperly, it stays 1/4 open 24/7 at all temperatures. The choke wire comes from the alternator back.  :chin: 

New distributor, coil, tuned and timed properly. Getting all the proper readings for voltage, but not to the choke.

 
Takes 1-2 cranks :)

Holley 750 double pumper, Electric pump. Just pump the gas 3 times and it starts. Ive elimintaed the choke. Just hold it with the gas 30-40 seconds and then it Idles in park.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
2-3 pumps and one to the floor to set the choke, then a quick flick of the key, and my 351 4v with a Quick Fuel 735 fires right up. When it’s warmed up then I can just hit the key and it starts. But when I let it sit for a while and it’s still kinda warm, then it’s a bit harder to start. I have to give it some gas and it takes a couple of cranks to fire.

 
2-3 pumps and one to the floor to set the choke, then a quick flick of the key, and my 351 4v with a Quick Fuel 735 fires right up. When it’s warmed up then I can just hit the key and it starts. But when I let it sit for a while and it’s still kinda warm, then it’s a bit harder to start. I have to give it some gas and it takes a couple of cranks to fire.
Exact same as this.

 
Same as above when was with a carb. Usually keeping the foot floored.

Never used a choke.

With EFI, it's turn key on, and it starts on 1/4 turn/ first cylinder with a spark found.

Here made a video (very crappy)

After 6 month still. turn key, the sound of the pump priming as line was empty. then crank... boom.


 
Hey everyone,

I'm back yet again looking for the general consensus on how quickly a 351 4v should fire up. This summer my car appears to be fully tuned properly, but it literally takes 5 cranks to fire up. I suspect my choke has been wired improperly, it stays 1/4 open 24/7 at all temperatures. The choke wire comes from the alternator back.  :chin: 

New distributor, coil, tuned and timed properly. Getting all the proper readings for voltage, but not to the choke.
What kind of carb? You need to figure out what is going on with the choke. Have you tried adjusting it? You should be able to turn the choke cap by hand so that the choke is fully open.

Also, if you tuned the carb with the choke being only 1/4 open then you likely are going to have to re-visit the carb tune after you sort the choke out.

 
Mine rarely cranks more than a moment before firing when cold. 2 pumps, turn ignition on, wait 10 seconds for the electric choke to start opening and crank, bang! i doubt it takes a full rotation. once warmed up it might need to crank for a second to 2 seconds at most.

 
Typically 2x to 4x depending on temp

Mine has 600 CFM Edelbrock 4V with auto choke
I have the same Edelbrock carb, but I went with a Holley inline electric fuel pump (in the driver side rear wheel well area - between the wheel house and frame).  I turn on the key to 'On,' let the fuel pump run until it sounds like it's gotten the line primed (usually 1-3 seconds, depending on how long it's been sitting), 1 pump on the pedal, turn the key to 'Start,' and it usually fires up between 2 & 3 cranks.

When the engine's warm, however, it usually hesistates between the 1st and second crank for a half second or so, then cranks like normal.  I'm thinking that's just normal heat soak on the start motor though.

One of these days, that's all going to change when I finally get off me arse and install the fuel injection.  :shrug2:  :shootself:

 
My 73 Mach 1 in the museum was only started a few times since I got it out of the barn. It has the original Motorcraft carb, original carter fuel pump and original dual point distributor. It fires right off.

My 73 convertible has Holley with MSD ignition and it also fire off quick.

I only hit the gas one time and then crank on any vehicle with a carburetor.

You can sort of test if the gas is running out of car by squirting a small amount into carb and try to start. If it fires off then you might be loosing the gas from the carb sitting there. Then the fuel pump has to fill it back up so takes more cranks.

 
The Ford original electric choke wiring comes from the stator terminal on the alternator. However, the stator supplies around 6 volts and aftermarket electric chokes require 12 volts to operate properly. They will still work, just be slow to open.

You'll need to get your choke functioning before you can expect easy starts, and for your engine to run well in all conditions.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Typically 2x to 4x depending on temp

Mine has 600 CFM Edelbrock 4V with auto choke
I have the same Edelbrock carb, but I went with a Holley inline electric fuel pump (in the driver side rear wheel well area - between the wheel house and frame).  I turn on the key to 'On,' let the fuel pump run until it sounds like it's gotten the line primed (usually 1-3 seconds, depending on how long it's been sitting), 1 pump on the pedal, turn the key to 'Start,' and it usually fires up between 2 & 3 cranks.

When the engine's warm, however, it usually hesistates between the 1st and second crank for a half second or so, then cranks like normal.  I'm thinking that's just normal heat soak on the start motor though.

One of these days, that's all going to change when I finally get off me arse and install the fuel injection.  :shrug2:  :shootself:
Hi Mister 

I still have the good ol ancient pre Jurassic mechanical  fuel pump 

Al :blush:

 
Typically 2x to 4x depending on temp

Mine has 600 CFM Edelbrock 4V with auto choke
I have the same Edelbrock carb, but I went with a Holley inline electric fuel pump (in the driver side rear wheel well area - between the wheel house and frame).  I turn on the key to 'On,' let the fuel pump run until it sounds like it's gotten the line primed (usually 1-3 seconds, depending on how long it's been sitting), 1 pump on the pedal, turn the key to 'Start,' and it usually fires up between 2 & 3 cranks.

When the engine's warm, however, it usually hesistates between the 1st and second crank for a half second or so, then cranks like normal.  I'm thinking that's just normal heat soak on the start motor though.

One of these days, that's all going to change when I finally get off me arse and install the fuel injection.  :shrug2:  :shootself:
Hi Mister 

I still have the good ol ancient pre Jurassic mechanical  fuel pump 

Al :blush:
So do I and it works flawlessly.

 
depends how long it sat and the fuel evaporation from the bowls.

sits a long time then i crank it for like 20-30 seconds to try and prime the fuel pump. stop. then i floor the pedal to set the curb idle and reset the choke(holley 4bbl double pumper) then crank it over usually starts in 5 seconds.

recent start, i floor the pedal to set the curb idle and choke then crank usually 5-10 seconds on start.

either way i then smack my tach since the needle gets stuck on zero.

hot starts within 30-60 minutes i might have to feather the throttle half way on restart.

modern fuel will vapor lock easy as it evaporates fast.

 
depends how long it sat and the fuel evaporation from the bowls.

sits a long time then i crank it for like 20-30 seconds to try and prime the fuel pump. stop. then i floor the pedal to set the curb idle and reset the choke(holley 4bbl double pumper) then crank it over usually starts in 5 seconds.

recent start, i floor the pedal to set the curb idle and choke then crank usually 5-10 seconds on start.

either way i then smack my tach since the needle gets stuck on zero.

hot starts within 30-60 minutes i might have to feather the throttle half way on restart.

modern fuel will vapor lock easy as it evaporates fast.
You just described life with my '80 Jeep CJ-7 and its 258 I-6, MC2100 2bbl, Duraspark with stock intake/exhaust - right down to the aftermarket Sun tach occasionally sticking.  If I even breathe hard on the pedal during a hot start though, it's all over (flooded).  Just like if the needle on the fuel gauge even casts a shadow on the 'E,' I'll be getting out to push it.

 
My Cleveland needs to be primed with starting fluid to fire up when not run in several days. I had thought this might be from a lack of vacuum due to no oil present on the rings. It seems to have gas right off the bat when I move the throttle. If its run in the last 24 hours it starts with the turn of the key. Anyone else experiencing this or have a theory?

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 
Back
Top