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Correct it is a recirculate only system.  If I want fresh air I crack a window.  I reused the vents and the defroster plenum, and had to make a new plenum to feed the two center vents. just a little tapered box to transition to the round hose.

Jeff. Could you take a picture of the evaporator unit under the dash? I am interested in how it looks on the passenger side by the kick panel and under the cowl vent.

 

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Here's mine going in with the dash completely out of the way.

 

The complete CAA HVAC inside unit is smaller than the factory heater core/exchange alone (mine was a non-A/C car).

 

attachment.php?aid=41213

 

Not the best pic - sorry.

 

Also - the sentiment on not being able to use R-134a in older HVAC systems is not entirely correct.  I believe the common misconception is that it might not be recommended - mostly due to a chance of the R-134a and R-12 compressor oil mixing and creating the 'black death' sludge. 

 

However, I've had personal experience with at least a dozen older systems having been upgraded to R-134a.  My '95 Honda Civic for one - it blew icicles once I removed the factory blocking plate from in front of the condensor as long as the rpms were above 1100 or so.  As well, my pal Jim (who happened to be a certified A/C technician) converted his '77 Jimmy's factory A/C to R-134a with no issues - you could hang meat in that truck on a hot day.  My Mom's '96 T-Bird was converted over as well - no issues.  Her '89 Dodge Dynasty - same deal, no issues.  Also helped a bunch of customers at the Auto Hobby Shop covert their systems over the years - no issues... ever. 

 

The key is to ensure the system is absolutely clean and purged before introducing the new refridgerant and oils.  Having an actual A/C refridgerant capture/fill machine is a huge help.  Especially, when checking for leaks - stick it on 'vacuum' and leaving it hooked up for a half hour, then fill the system without disconnecting anything.  Works like a champ.

 

Great pic. Thanks. Are you able to keep the vent flapper that was on the passenger side in your car to let outside air in if needed?

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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How much oil would be needed when you have a blow out like that?

 

Good question. When I filled my system a month ago, I just filled the compressor from the top fill hole to the level indicated in the manual. I was planing on doing the same this time, but I don't know if there is a way of knowing how much oil is left in the other parts of the system to know if you add more or less. Anyone knows?

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Jeff. Could you take a picture of the evaporator unit under the dash? I am interested in how it looks on the passenger side by the kick panel and under the cowl vent.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

 

Here's mine going in with the dash completely out of the way.

 

The complete CAA HVAC inside unit is smaller than the factory heater core/exchange alone (mine was a non-A/C car).

 

attachment.php?aid=41213

 

Not the best pic - sorry.

 

Also - the sentiment on not being able to use R-134a in older HVAC systems is not entirely correct.  I believe the common misconception is that it might not be recommended - mostly due to a chance of the R-134a and R-12 compressor oil mixing and creating the 'black death' sludge. 

 

However, I've had personal experience with at least a dozen older systems having been upgraded to R-134a.  My '95 Honda Civic for one - it blew icicles once I removed the factory blocking plate from in front of the condensor as long as the rpms were above 1100 or so.  As well, my pal Jim (who happened to be a certified A/C technician) converted his '77 Jimmy's factory A/C to R-134a with no issues - you could hang meat in that truck on a hot day.  My Mom's '96 T-Bird was converted over as well - no issues.  Her '89 Dodge Dynasty - same deal, no issues.  Also helped a bunch of customers at the Auto Hobby Shop covert their systems over the years - no issues... ever. 

 

The key is to ensure the system is absolutely clean and purged before introducing the new refridgerant and oils.  Having an actual A/C refridgerant capture/fill machine is a huge help.  Especially, when checking for leaks - stick it on 'vacuum' and leaving it hooked up for a half hour, then fill the system without disconnecting anything.  Works like a champ.

 

Great pic. Thanks. Are you able to keep the vent flapper that was on the passenger side in your car to let outside air in if needed?

 

I could've probably done that, but I think the driver side might be better.  Then again, if the flapper isn't in working order for one side of the other, you just pick the one you want.  I actually made a 2nd plate and blocked both off... although, I wish I would've reused my driver side flapper (I think that's the one that still works).

Eric

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Trying this question again about oil. After I replace the broken hose and pull vacuum, should I just fill the compressor with oil to the recommended level? When the refrigerant leaked through the hose there was oil everywhere. Is the amount of oil left in the system important?

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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You should fill the compressor to the recommended level again.

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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I am not sure on the amount of oil you should add. I thought that the oil pretty much gathered in the compressor and slight amounts get in the system.

I will look at the Ford shop manual today and see what they say.

One thing that has me puzzled on the whole thing is. Why did the safety pop off valve on the compressor not blow if it was over pressure? That should be the weak link to prevent hoses from blowing. It is on the back side of the compressor. 

Might get back into mine today. Once I find the leak and repair I will vac again and go back to the Dura Cool material. 

An engineer from a local business that produces cooling units told me that the highly refined propane products do preform much better than R-134 or R-12. Guy had 22 cans of R-12 on CL here for $20.00 a can and cheaper if you bought more. It was all gone in an hour, lol.

I am still struggling with the fact that the new green O-rings I find are metric and the unit is actually inch. When I pull a hose or connection open the green rings look horrible. Do you have place to get the inch O-rings? Putting a square peg in a round hole is just not right.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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I am not sure on the amount of oil you should add. I thought that the oil pretty much gathered in the compressor and slight amounts get in the system.

I will look at the Ford shop manual today and see what they say.

One thing that has me puzzled on the whole thing is. Why did the safety pop off valve on the compressor not blow if it was over pressure? That should be the weak link to prevent hoses from blowing. It is on the back side of the compressor. 

Might get back into mine today. Once I find the leak and repair I will vac again and go back to the Dura Cool material. 

An engineer from a local business that produces cooling units told me that the highly refined propane products do preform much better than R-134 or R-12. Guy had 22 cans of R-12 on CL here for $20.00 a can and cheaper if you bought more. It was all gone in an hour, lol.

I am still struggling with the fact that the new green O-rings I find are metric and the unit is actually inch. When I pull a hose or connection open the green rings look horrible. Do you have place to get the inch O-rings? Putting a square peg in a round hole is just not right.

David, I didn't know there was a safety pop off valve in the compressor. I am still puzzled on how the actual coupling nut of the hose was pushed out. I want to fix the hose and then pull a vacuum to check if there are any other leaks. I have not found a local place that can custom make/repair a hose for me so I may have to send it to Cold Air in Florida, who fixed my hoses earlier this year.

I got a kit with bunch of those o-rings and they fit. I didn't pay attention if they were metric or SAE. I bought the kit at Farm & Fleet, which is a regional chain. There are a bunch of kits in Amazon but I don't know if they will work for you.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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You should fill the compressor to the recommended level again.

Thanks. That's the minimum I will do once I can find a place where to fix the hose (recrimp a new hose onto the old fittings).

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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You could try calling a couple reputable restoration shops or even a hydraulic hose repair place as they usually have the equipment to crimp AC hoses as well. I know Sadler Powertrain down here can crimp AC hoses.

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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You could try calling a couple reputable restoration shops or even a hydraulic hose repair place as they usually have the equipment to crimp AC hoses as well. I know Sadler Powertrain down here can crimp AC hoses.

Thanks. Good idea, but it didn't work. I just went to a place that works with hydraulic systems. Initially on the phone they said they may be able to fix it but after seeing it they said they can't due to something to do with the location of the soldering.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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For those following this threads, what are other ways to create and over pressure condition? Could a contaminated system get clogged and overpressurize to the point of bursting a hose? As mentioned above, it is puzzling that the low pressure coupling nut came off. There are no marks or visible damage of the threads. Could it unscrew itself all the way and allow the system to be contaminated? Weird, however, I don't think this would be the case since the A/C was cool just until the 6,500 rpm moment and I assume that if the low pressure hose would have disconnected the high pressure side would have not overpressurized.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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when you say low pressure hose I assume you mean between the Evaporator and the compressor. On my 94 Bronco, there is a relief valve on the fitting right where it connects to the compressor. I dont remember if theres one there on my Mustang or not since that is a project I havnt started yet. I have to flush it and convert it over to 134a. Its hard to say what happens inside that tube at 6500rpm. I would have thought the hose coming off the condenser would break first, seeing how on my bronco its a solid aluminum line to prevent it from blowing up. I know on the mustang its a hose though. Its almost like your clutch stopped working and the high pressure went thru the orfice and overpressurized the low side hose, if the clutch disengaged, it is at least conceivable that pressure would build up and rupture the hose, especially if it has no relief valve and the compressor was stopped leaving the pressure no where to go.

 

Just some random thoughts, take it or leave it, I probably am wrong anyway, but its worth considering.

"I drank what?" - Socrates

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when you say low pressure hose I assume you mean between the Evaporator and the compressor.  On my 94 Bronco, there is a relief valve on the fitting right where it connects to the compressor.  I dont remember if theres one there on my Mustang or not since that is a project I havnt started yet.  I have to flush it and convert it over to 134a.  Its hard to say what happens inside that tube at 6500rpm.  I would have thought the hose coming off the condenser would break first, seeing how on my bronco its a solid aluminum line to prevent it from blowing up.  I know on the mustang its a hose though. Its almost like your clutch stopped working and the high pressure went thru the orfice and overpressurized the low side hose, if the clutch disengaged, it is at least conceivable that pressure would build up and rupture the hose, especially if it has no relief valve and the compressor was stopped leaving the pressure no where to go.

 

Just some random thoughts, take it or leave it, I probably am wrong anyway, but its worth considering.

Interesting theory. Actually, what happened is two-fold. The high pressure hose (compressor to condenser) burst. But I also found that the coupling nut that attaches the low pressure hose to the compressor was off (evaporator to compressor).

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Although unlikely, a failed or plugged expansion valve could cause the pressure to build and blow the hose.

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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Although unlikely, a failed or plugged expansion valve could cause the pressure to build and blow the hose.

Is there a way to test for a plugged expansion valve before filling the system with refrigerant?

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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I am still struggling with the fact that the new green O-rings I find are metric and the unit is actually inch. When I pull a hose or connection open the green rings look horrible. Do you have place to get the inch O-rings? Putting a square peg in a round hole is just not right.

Harbor Freight has the green (HNBR) o-rings in SAE sizes, don't know if the kit has the size you need, though. I've used them on other things, like a pressure washer and airless paint compressor, without any problems.

https://www.harborfreight.com/205-piece-hnbr-o-ring-kit-67644.html

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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Although unlikely, a failed or plugged expansion valve could cause the pressure to build and blow the hose.

Is there a way to test for a plugged expansion valve before filling the system with refrigerant?

The only way I know how to test is with the system charged and running.

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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Although unlikely, a failed or plugged expansion valve could cause the pressure to build and blow the hose.

Is there a way to test for a plugged expansion valve before filling the system with refrigerant?

The only way I know how to test is with the system charged and running.

Thank you Jason for all the help. I sent the hose out today for repair so it won't be until 2 weeks or so that I will get them back.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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I think I will leave my current A/C system but get a new Sanden compressor and bracket adapter. I think I can use my current hoses, except that I will need a longer high pressure hose, which is the one I am redoing that broke so it should be easy. I like the black one from VDF (https://www.cvfracing.com/black-sanden-style-ac-compressor-r134a-v-belt-pulley/). Sometime I will also try to get to the fan inside the car to see in what condition is it. It gets very noisy at high speed.

Do you think I need a new dryer? I had just replaced the dryer a month ago so I will think that I don't need a new one.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Whenever the system has been open for more than a few minutes the drier will start absorbing moisture out of the air, the higher the humidity, the more it absorbs. I wouldn't take a chance on it, they're not that expensive to pay for some peace of mind. If the drier cannnot pull moisture out of the refrigerant, the liquid moisture can destroy the compressor.

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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Whenever the system has been open for more than a few minutes the drier will start absorbing moisture out of the air, the higher the humidity, the more it absorbs. I wouldn't take a chance on it, they're not that expensive to pay for some peace of mind. If the drier cannnot pull moisture out of the refrigerant, the liquid moisture can destroy the compressor.

Thanks. By the time i put it together it would have been 5-6 weeks with high summer humidity.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Replace the dryer

http://www.7173mustangs.com/gallery/1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png

 

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!

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Replace the dryer

 

Out of curiosity. What is the size of the condenser that comes with the Classic Auto Air system? Is it bigger?

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Don't recall, but as I never had air. I have nothing to compare it with

 

Finished up the install of the 56 F 100 yesterday-it has a smallish condensor, but worked great

http://www.7173mustangs.com/gallery/1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png

 

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!

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Don't recall, but as I never had air. I have nothing to compare it with

 

Finished up the install of the 56 F 100 yesterday-it has a smallish condensor, but worked great

 

Cool...(pun intended)! Do you have an additional electric fan or just the mechanical w/clutch?

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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