Noises while running/ fine tuning

Hello everyone.

Mine now starts and runs consistently.  Woo Hoo!!  She needs coaxing when cold, but idles solid after a few minutes of warmup.  I do have some noises and adjustments to look into, so I need some help.

1) I tuned the Holley Ultra using a vacuum gage.  Should that be an iterative process as I compete the PCV system, etc?  It still smells rich to me.

2) Has anyone found a way to put the original idle boos solenoid on a Holley?  I need to kill it with a clutch dump when she is warm.

3) I have ticking sounds, like an exhaust leak.  how do you check for exhaust leaks?

4)  Power steering is in, filled, and does not leak.  It does not provide much assistance either. Do pumps go bad and cause this without leaking?

5) Tires -  Anyone go with the Goodyears, or the Firestone Wide Oval versus  the BFG Radial TA?

6)  I have a clunk from the suspension when I back off the curb into the street.  I have no clue,

I will think of more,,,,,

kcmash

Yes, every time you change anything that changes the airflow or timing you'll likely need to adjust the carburetor. Just installing an air cleaner can change mixtures, as it changes the flow of air into the carburator. Adding a functioning PCV will usually lean it out some, unless there is a lot of fuel in the oil.

Holley used to have the brackets, I've modified the originals to fit, trimming or adding metal as needed.

Yes, power steering pumps can go bad internally. Nonfunctioning is often caused by air in the system.

That clunk usually come from an exhaust pipe moving enough to make contact with something close to it. Shock bushings and spring bushings are also high on the list, as are loose hardware.

I did crank the engine with the return dumping to waste until I got solid PS fluid.  Of course I found a leak at the High pressure hose and the steering box, so I fixed that.  I have NOT done the stop to stop bleed on it yet.  I guess that is the next step.  Ready to get to the front clip as soon as I am sure I can leave it on!

kcmash

The rich idle and "run on" after you turn the key off are symptoms of too much transition slot exposure.

What is the initial timing? This plays a role in establishing idle speed and ultimately t-slot exposure.

.

KC,

As Don C stated, adding a pcv valve will help, as it is a metered vacuum leak by design.

That should help raise the idle speed , then you should be able to get back under the transition slots.

Don't forget to re- adjust the mixture screws again.

Holley at one time offered a bracket for the anti- run on solenoid, as I have one on mine and have installed them for others.

As for the solenoid, rockauto is inexpensive to get one, or at the local scrap yard.

Also the Ford trucks with 351 W and 4vH olley (4165 ? ) have a bracket as well, not sure if it was attached to an electrical solenoid of a vacuum damper of sorts, but I have a scrap one in the garage with a bracket on it.

The solenoid is always a good idea, especially with the Holley's and a hot camshaft

I usually strive for highest vacuum when setting the idle mixture but without touching the curb idle screw.

Know where the transition slot is and don't go beyond it or you will get sore eyes.

Boilermaster

For searching for the exhaust leak, a piece of 3/16"± copper tubing curved the get around the exhaust manifold, connected to a 2 or3 foot long rubber hose that you can hold up to your ear works good.

The ticking could also be a valve lifter adjusted wrong, leaking, or with a chunk of gunk in it.

.

KC,

As Don C stated, adding a pcv valve will help, as it is a metered vacuum leak by design.

That should help raise the idle speed , then you should be able to get back under the transition slots.

Don't forget to re- adjust the mixture screws again.

Holley at one time offered a bracket for the anti- run on solenoid, as I have one on mine and have installed them for others.

As for the solenoid, rockauto is inexpensive to get one, or at the local scrap yard.

Also the Ford trucks with 351 W and 4vH olley (4165 ? ) have a bracket as well, not sure if it was attached to an electrical solenoid of a vacuum damper of sorts, but I have a scrap one in the garage with a bracket on it.

The solenoid is always a good idea, especially with the Holley's and a hot camshaft

I usually strive for highest vacuum when setting the idle mixture but without touching the curb idle screw.

Know where the transition slot is and don't go beyond it or you will get sore eyes.

Boilermaster

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Thanks for the info.  I have an original solenoid off of the 2V carb that came factory along with a bracket, but it does not fit the Holley,  Yep, I have the high compression heads and a decent cam, so I will need some help to shut a warm engine down.  

Does Rock Auto have the solenoid and bracket for a Holley?

Last time I set the carb I went for high vacuum too.  The idle kept creeping up as did the vacuum so i had to drop the idle screw back off.  Today was the first running with the PCV system hooked up, so i need to re-calibrate.

I am thrilled that it kept cool and had no leaks!  Hopefully I can get a chance to run it tomorrow too.

kcmash

Kc,                                                                                                                                                                The Holley brackets are pn # 20-58 for 4160 carbs @ $11.14 and 20-72 universal @ $ 23.54                                  They also sell the solenoid for around $95.00.                                                                                                    Could not find the inexpensive solenoid on rock auto or at Standard ignition, that's why I suggest the bone yard.      Looking at the ford truck holley, I uses electrical solenoid and vacuum dashpot and it's offset may be different than what you need for the carb you are using.                                                                                                       Would suggest the BFG tires for looks, a decent ride and great burnouts, but if you have any real power, they are not a good traction tire.                                                                                                                                   Boilermaster

Does anyone know if that Holley bracket will hold the original Ford solenoid?

I have been planning on BFG for a long time.  Just wanted to see if there were more financially friendly options since I need financial approval.

kcmash

Does anyone know if that Holley bracket will hold the original Ford solenoid?

I have been planning on BFG for a long time.  Just wanted to see if there were more financially friendly options since I need financial approval.

kcmash

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Kcmah, it will, my solenoid is oem type.                                                                                                         Boilermaster

Since financial approval is required for tires, take a look at Cooper Cobras. They're about $50/tire less in most 15" sizes. Have them on my 71 and am very happy so far.

I would ask do you put anything in your fuel? I run 90 octane ethanol free and put the Lucas gas treatment in. I do not have any issue with run on or diesel. 351 C bored .050", cam, flat top pistons but do not know cam specs. It has 2-V heads with Edelbrock performer 4-V and Holley. Carb has the solenoid but not hooked up. I drove over 200 miles the other day in mid 90 deg. heat with no issues except blew out a tire.

On tires one of the cars I bought had Firestone 15" Firehawk Indy 500 tires. They ride really good and I took the car for laps on the Roval in Charlotte Speedway and they handle really great. I went back to Sport Wheel covers so have the stock steel wheels but since I blew the tire going to get new set of the Cooper Corbas mounted on a set of Forged Aluminum wheels for now. Found best price at Discount Tire. They always do final torque on the wheels with a real torque wrench which is a must not to warp the disc rotors.

I ordered a set of the original Goodyear RWL F-70-14" to go on my Mach 1 in the Mustang Owner's Museum. They look great but are expensive for a daily driver.

I ran BFG back in the day and did not like them probably different today.

If you have headers check the gasket at the flange where it connects to the pipes. I had bad gaskets there. Some headers do not have welded flanges and are tough on gaskets there.

Not sure if my exhaust is leaking or not.  I have original exhaust manifolds and a 2.5 inch diameter pipe.  Here is how it sounded yesterday.



The more I run it the better it seems to get.  I have a total of 1/2 mile, and maybe 1.5 hours of idle time on it since the restoration, so i am definitely still breaking it in.

kcmash

Letting an engine idle when new is not a great idea. Most of the oil getting to the cam is thrown from the crank. Also hope you got the zinc additive in your oil.

Good to see you had good sense to leave the fenders off until you get all under hood work done. Much easier with the fenders off and not damage.

There should be no gasket if you have stock manifolds just head to manifold. They can leak if not surfaced correct and flat. It was a government regulation I believe that eliminated gasket.

Car sounds great but go easy on the sitting and idling.

When you break in an engine it is pretty much done the first time it runs. especially the cam and rings. There should be no break in for bearings they are set to correct clearance during the build.

I did do the break in at 2500-3000 for 30  minutes to break the cam in.  I do have the zinc additive oil, and I do rev it, and move the car under its own power every start.

Thanks for the reminders!

kcmash

Since financial approval is required for tires, take a look at Cooper Cobras. They're about $50/tire less in most 15" sizes. Have them on my 71 and am very happy so far.

Click to expand...

I had the Cooper Cobras on an old firebird I restored a few years ago, great tires especially when on dry pavement, when on wet, I would have to watch left and right turns because it tended to fishtail on wet pavement.

Tom

Got the BFG's today.

Tire problem is over.

Well,  

Not.much time with the car today but I made good progress.  AC system closed and held full vacuum for 24 hours.  Bad news, I need to crack open the sight glass hose and route it differently. 

Took a couple rounds through the neighborhood.   Got an excited stop by one neighbor who said I ought to show it as is.

I think I need a lifter/rocker adjustment as there is a consistent click at about 1500 to 1800rpm.  Also could not get her into 3rd gear.  Hoping a linkage adjustment will solve that one. 

Trying to figure out why it will not go into 3rd.  I have all Ford stuff factory Hurst, D1zz shift rods and when going for 3rd she hits the bolts shown in the pic.  

Can anyone help?  Not sure what to do.

Kcmash