My 71mach M code

• Big plans for my fairly rust free platform but it’s to using fresh straight steel for my inner rockers with a filler that is only to double the thickness and on top of that I’m putting a uni strut to run torque box to torque box. Figure that will help the tin man frame adder thing most of you had already used. Time to clean and coat with I’m using the international house brand P.O.R. Saving a dime here and there. So many hours work, for a bunch of car parts is nuts lol. I’d show my mostly rust free doghouse but it’s a shame being cut off but I got new shock tower assemblies...
  

Looks pretty swell as you would imagine this is the step before tinkering with my very own inner rocker to sandwich behind. as it forced its way into the work queue.(sandwiched itself in there figuratively as of yet.)

Lots of work there to do.

I do hope you have the body supported to hold the chassis in correct plane before welding anything back.

Also the cowl is gone for sure that is what causes the floors to rot cowl leak. Will be around the hole for the heater box.

The chassis dimensions are on the forum do a search. You can measure and set to correct dimensions. Too late now but it is usually a good idea to take the car to a frame shop before you start and have the chassis pulled back to spec before starting. That way doors, fenders, hood and trunk will fit much better.

Keep posting your progress.

Lots of work there to do.

I do hope you have the body supported to hold the chassis in correct plane before welding anything back.

Also the cowl is gone for sure that is what causes the floors to rot cowl leak. Will be around the hole for the heater box.

The chassis dimensions are on the forum do a search. You can measure and set to correct dimensions. Too late now but it is usually a good idea to take the car to a frame shop before you start and have the chassis pulled back to spec before starting. That way doors, fenders, hood and trunk will fit much better.

Keep posting your progress.

Click to expand...

  a lot of kinks in the thick metal from p/o collision, car is, was pretty twisted but is getting cut out of its bind, I’m periodically making sure it’s remaining level,it’s welded to the ground lol. Just the rocker was pulled away from center but is remaining level after cutting. Before I started cutting I found the bottom of the rocker was 55” and the top was 55.5” right under Door Jamb. Not sure how I’m going to pull it back in. Might just reset the Jamb on rocker?  I’d have to dig in the shed for all the new stuff cowl and all lol getting closer to needing too. yippie kai yay. I have the rod and custom front member which is sweet, he had sent the dimensions in plain ol’ inches lol.

I’m happy with the rust removal on the inside of the door post, I also got in my nos passenger outer rocker which sure beats that twisted one. Now time for P.O.R

Down to the bare bone of the outer door jamb.  I started with the B pillar because compared to the Windshield posts and door hinge supports of the A I thought getting closer to rust free would help push me, no joke. LOL

I said I was going to beef up the inner and here it goes onto new 14ga steel by a unistrut. Also dismantling the whole sports roof only because shown reinforcement goes well under the roof rain rail reinforcement... eh cheaper than dipping the car I guess.

have Got my RH wheelhouse in and now I can close up the rocker to get the new tq box with rail on to bring back rigidity. 

The inner and outer rockers on inside I’ve coated in por15. But before I close it I think I’ll slip a piece of dynamat in there. Why not 

have Got my RH wheelhouse in and now I can close up the rocker to get the new tq box with rail on to bring back rigidity. 

The inner and outer rockers on inside I’ve coated in por15. But before I close it I think I’ll slip a piece of dynamat in there. Why not 

Click to expand...

Word of warning, be very careful welding around POR-15. The fumes are extremely toxic.

have Got my RH wheelhouse in and now I can close up the rocker to get the new tq box with rail on to bring back rigidity. 

The inner and outer rockers on inside I’ve coated in por15. But before I close it I think I’ll slip a piece of dynamat in there. Why not 

Click to expand...

Word of warning, be very careful welding around POR-15. The fumes are extremely toxic.

Click to expand...

   I’ll be absolutely sure to use my big fan to circulate the air. More toxic than just the por 15 because I just got the lizard skin sound and ceramic coatings to use first before sealing it shut. No dynamat on my project due to application of glue vs spray on.

Holy medicinal cannibus Batman!   Having the car dipped aint THAT expensive!

lollerz

 KCSMASH- “You know the chase is better than the catch“. right? LOL ever spot weld is a stone that needs turned I’ve found a lot of rott hiding behind “fine looking joints”

got that piece welded onto  the door post and with backing at the front qtr, for added strength the backing is of course plugged in. went and got the new cowl pinned in for Other goodies to come together jointly revealing enough overlap which i'm happy with. want to bring her down on wheels soo bad. How well she mates with the Dynacorn pieces and the pieces amongst themselves, she is certainly ready to run with the rivals of today, haha. don't ask me what i have to make her purr, she may hear and get upset.

  It makes me wonder wth, buuttttt... I’m still trucking along, regardless!

Koodo's to you for even tackling this restoration. I've seen better cars in scrap yards........ but that was a few too many years ago.

Keep up the good works and before you know it, another classic will be back on the road.

Amen stanglover

Great that you are still picking it apart and putting back together. It will amaze you at some point that you are gaining. 
You mentioned something about putting the mat inside the rockers. Might catch on fire welding and also just another something to cause fumes. Bad thing about fumes and fans you need to keep your gas on the weld but also get some air.
On putting the foam in the rocker box. Where I worked we stamped parts for Toyota for Camry and Avalon along with trucks. On a new model of Avalon after an early build they found they had a horrible squeak coming from inside the rocker at the B post. Instead of finding the issue and maybe adding a couple more welds that cost them $.03 each they shot expanding foam into the rocker box. So much for Toyota engineering. 

Yeah I’ll take some photos I’ve been down for about 3 weeks, instead of rinsing off the permatex gel, I instead grounded it off, and into everywhere including onto myself, long story short i caught a spark behind my safety glasses and had a irritated eye for a week. I  got back to it 1 week later and it happened again, but for 2 weeks. But currently I need to widen my torque boxes because pushing my new rails flush to the 90deg. angle of the mustang II cross member, It left my rails leaning inward . But the fender test fit, it went well lining up to the rocker hole and fender apron holes. just a question where does the front fender bolt for the rocker go?  It only has one hole in the rocker for a nut to hold the fender to it. I’m shocked by how all the hard work quickly starts to show, what the amazing car I’m working for looks like. It’s coming from damn near every spot weld being undone from factory.