Convertible top pump and fluids

The top itself is worthless, but the mechanicals work great. I haven't noticed any leaks in the hydraulics, but, well, read on.  I have the back seats out and it seemed like a good time to check the fluids. 

If you've ever attempted to do this, it's tricky to get a view into the reservoir.  I couldn't see any oil in the reservoir but the top works, so there must be some, right?  I used a bamboo skewer to dip into the reservoir and it came with just a trace at the end.

I believe I read in the Ford Service Manual that the fluid should come up to the bottom of the refill opening.  Type A automatic transmission fluid is called for.  But now...

Given this could easily be the first time this has even been checked, should I be concerned about really-old vs new fluid compatibility?  Is there any reason to think contaminants could have gotten into the line and it should be purged first?

If it's working fine, refill it per the manual and leave it alone. There's so little use and wear on these it's not really worth it. Type A was replaced by Dexron, current "basic" Dexron is Dexron III.

I use Type F in my top pump, P/S pump and transmission per Ford recommendation!

I believe it was type F also. I also use in top and PS.

I think the pump is the same from 65 - 73 on the Mustang. I would just fill. What will blow a hose or seal is when going up or down holding the switch and building pressure. You should release switch as soon as up or down and not try to force in place.

I used Type F fluid as well. I used a turkey baster to fill the motor reservoir. It was easier to control the filling and work well in the tight space and the small hole. The bleeding of air bubbles will happen by filling, plugging the hole and operating the roof motor to move the frame up and down completely, and then check the fluid level again and repeat the filling steps if needed.

I used Type F fluid as well. I used a turkey baster to fill the motor reservoir. It was easier to control the filling and work well in the tight space and the small hole. The bleeding of air bubbles will happen by filling, plugging the hole and operating the roof motor to move the frame up and down completely, and then check the fluid level again and repeat the filling steps if needed.

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Pretty much what I did, but with a small funnel. Fill, operate (3 times), check level and a-ok! Even sounds better now.

I recently replaced my pump motor/reservoir cause my old one leaked.  Mine calls for Type F.  Until I replaced the pump, I was filing it twice a year and the leak made a mess in my trunk.  I see earlier post suggestion of using a turkey baster - thats a good idea, I used a very small funnel and pored only an once or two in at a time. Air in the lines is the bad thing here for sure.