Caliper and pad upgrade for 73???

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Tucaz520

Well-known member
Joined
May 20, 2018
Messages
65
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Location
Charlotte nc
My Car
1973 Mach1
Had an oh poop moment this morning when a truck in front of me stopped hard to make a left turn.  Brakes worked and then a pop feeling in pedal and no brakes..... i was able step on then ebrake to get stopped and finish my journey home.  Starting looking up parts and master cylinder needs replacing for sure but while I have tools out I'd like to install new calipers, rotors and pads.   

I'm not finding anything beyond "daily driver" parts.  

I did find the willwood kit but at $500+ and so so reviews thats not promising.

For comparison for my sons elcamino I can get calipers, slotted rotors and pads for around $250.

Is there anything comparable out there for our cars?

 
Factory discs are just fine. You can get the slotted and cross drilled bling if you feel the need. I have the Hawk HPS pads on my 71 and they are definitely more aggressive than the stock parts store pads.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004MW5WC8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Russel makes a nice stainless braided hose kit for the 71-73 cars.

https://summitracing.com/parts/rus-693080

You might also want to consider replacing the hardlines, front kits are about $60 for steel.

While you're there, don't forget about the rear drums, they do a lot more work than most people realize.

 
One of my safety checks before heading out is to put both feet on the pedal and press as hard as I can. If I am going to blow a seal, hose or hard line I want it to be in the garage not looking at red brake lights. 

It seems that they do not make the replacement hard lines like the originals. The junction block on the rear axle has a different size connection on original that the replacements. 

Also the metal lines tend to rust really bad where the metal tab is over it on the center of the rear. 

The calipers are pretty easy to rebuild. The pistons are hard chrome plated and seldom rust. There is one seal inside just take apart clean install new seal and new dust boot. Get the kits with new bleed valves also.

You can get new rotors about any parts house. If the hoses are old you should replace them for sure. The rear cylinders are very cheap. 

When you do the rear drums you should have the new shoes cut on arch to fit the drums to get the best braking possible.

The drilled and slotted rotors are a waste of money unless you are going to road race and need to get the gas out.

I doubt if it cost $125 for everything, rotors, rebuild kits, if you do the lines and hoses it goes up. 

The master cylinder can be rebuilt if rust pits are not too deep. There is a place that will bore out and put brass sleeve in so it will never rust again. You should change the brake fluid every couple years it absorbs moisture. You can get test strips at your parts house to test for moisture. 

The PDB master cylinder is 15/16" dia. and non power is 1" so check before you buy.

 

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