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Hello from Kansas


RoosterMatt
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Hey Everyone! 

 

I currently have a 73 Mach 1. The previous owner painted her gulfstream aqua and did some sketchy shade tree mechanic stuff to her. I’m trying to knock off the cobwebs and undo some of the shenanigans. 

 

She’s got a 351 Windsor off an f-150.0618-ABAD-64-BD-45-DE-AC9-C-ECFD2-B760-E4-A.jpg

 

9-A85844-D-BE44-495-E-8-AA6-A31-B10-B3-E948.jpg

 

CE7-D494-B-8094-47-F5-8-F98-83-BE22126-C7-D.jpg

 

B9-EA4465-9908-447-A-8112-60-D846-BA8748.jpg

 

DDF44099-AACC-423-C-9606-5-DB358954158.jpg

 

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Welcome from Iowa. Nice ride. I kind of like the color with the white stripe. Goes well together.

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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Welcome from Oregon. You have a nice looking car to begin on. I like the blue, always been one of my favorite car colors. I can understand why the P.O. put in a Windsor, Clevelands are not easy to find. I was thinking about building a Clevor, but finally found a 4-bolt Cleveland block within driving distance.

 

I believe the majority of us have had to deal with "why in the hell did they do that" issues from previous owners. Electrical probably being the most frequent.

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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Hey Everyone! 

 

I currently have a 73 Mach 1. The previous owner painted her gulfstream aqua and did some sketchy shade tree mechanic stuff to her. I’m trying to knock off the cobwebs and undo some of the shenanigans. 

 

She’s got a 351 Windsor off an f-150.0618-ABAD-64-BD-45-DE-AC9-C-ECFD2-B760-E4-A.jpg

 

9-A85844-D-BE44-495-E-8-AA6-A31-B10-B3-E948.jpg

 

CE7-D494-B-8094-47-F5-8-F98-83-BE22126-C7-D.jpg

 

B9-EA4465-9908-447-A-8112-60-D846-BA8748.jpg

 

DDF44099-AACC-423-C-9606-5-DB358954158.jpg

 

She looks great!  Hopefully the steering and braking systems are sound.  The paint looks great on your stang.....hopefully done right?

9-20-19-Mine-Again.jpg1972 Mach 1 351 Cleveland Ram Air, C6, 9 inch with 3.25 Posi, Sanderson Ceramic Headers, 2.5" dual H Pipe exhaust w/stainless tips, MSD Ignition, Edlelbrock 4BB Carb, Wilwood Front Discs, Summit Racing Rear Discs.

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Welcome from Oregon. You have a nice looking car to begin on. I like the blue, always been one of my favorite car colors. I can understand why the P.O. put in a Windsor, Clevelands are not easy to find. I was thinking about building a Clevor, but finally found a 4-bolt Cleveland block within driving distance.

 

I believe the majority of us have had to deal with "why in the hell did they do that" issues from previous owners. Electrical probably being the most frequent.

The electrical was so screwed up in my 72 Mach 1 that it is costing me $$$ to get the car completely rewired.  The dash wiring was jury rigged and neither the horn nor the signal lights worked.  I installed a new signal switch and got the horn working.  It then shorted when I tried to start the car.  Lots of smoke but thankfully no flames.  Had it towed to a speed shop for that project.

9-20-19-Mine-Again.jpg1972 Mach 1 351 Cleveland Ram Air, C6, 9 inch with 3.25 Posi, Sanderson Ceramic Headers, 2.5" dual H Pipe exhaust w/stainless tips, MSD Ignition, Edlelbrock 4BB Carb, Wilwood Front Discs, Summit Racing Rear Discs.

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Nice looking car and I really like the color. It sure looks like a great car to start with and I’m sure you’ll figure out what needs to be fixed. Good luck and Welcome to the site from Michigan.

John - 72 Q Code

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Welcome to the forum from North Carolina.

Looks like the did lots of things to the car for sure. Could not see the rear to see if they changed the rear bumper also. Lots of differences in 73 but sure looks like a 71 - 72. Are you sure they did not do a VIN# switch on you? I would pull front fender and check on the shock tower.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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Welcome! Great eye appeal, for sure. But yeah... I have more than a few of those "what were they thinking?" things.

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Lovely front on a solid looking 73, I love them best this way!

The only must go detail for me would be the Mustang 2 pony. Not because its not 7173, Its just not as elegant as the previous years.

 

Welcome from the northern Netherlands

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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Welcome to the forum from North Carolina.

Looks like the did lots of things to the car for sure. Could not see the rear to see if they changed the rear bumper also. Lots of differences in 73 but sure looks like a 71 - 72. Are you sure they did not do a VIN# switch on you? I would pull front fender and check on the shock tower.

 

So the previous owner told me that he replaced the front and back bumpers with chrome and that he preferred the look of 71/72 over the 73. Could’ve been blowing smoke. The Vin’s do match on the door and dash. Haven’t pulled the fender yet. Does anyone know other subtle differences to look for between a 71/72 and a 73?

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There are date codes on all the parts, cast, stamped so you can tell what day month and year they were produced. 

The 73 has a different turn signal wire harness. The tail lights did not have the black out around the aluminum trim. There was a filler panel between the bumper and the tail light panel since the bumper was moved back.

There were rubber filler blocks in front of the bumper ends. There would be holes in the quarter panels to attach those fillers. 

The round nylon stop blocks on the windows were riveted on a 73 bolted on 71 72. 

The seat back release is to the outside of the seat back on 73. 

Here is a link to see how the date codes are applied to the different parts on the car. http://mustangtek.com/FordDecode.html

In order to put the front bumper and grill in for 72 he would have had to change the front fenders, bumper mounts, valance, etc. 

If I remember correct Midlife, resident Ford wiring expert, said that the under dash 73 would not hook up to the under hood and headlight harness for the 72. 

I would check the numbers under the fender.

The transmission also has VIN# on it. See location at the reference site for date codes.

If you had PW the bezels are different.

Build sheet was tossed into car on the assembly line and might still be under carpet or seats. Some come out great and some are totally destroyed. 

There is also the Buck Tag that should be on the L.H. side of the radiator support tucked under the front fender. That has the VIN# and any items that needed to be put on the body before paint. Here is a pic of one in place and off the car. Also shot of where the VIN# is no the shock tower.

It would be pretty much impossible to change all the codes and parts to switch over a vehicle. DSC00129.jpg

 

can i insure a rebuilt title car

 

DSC-0981.jpg

 

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When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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