higher output blower motor

My 73 convert has factory air.

Works ok but Id like more airflow.

Any suggestions?

Put the top down, lol.

Not much of a way to increase that I know of. My motor is making horrible noise I just hate the thoughts of getting to it to replace.

If you are using R134a going to DuraCool will give you a few degrees colder air also. Would have to evacuate the old to put in the DuraCool. 

The temp drop can only be so much depending on outside temp will vary the temp coming from the vents. 

The fan for sure will not blow your skirt up.

Put the top down, lol.

Not much of a way to increase that I know of. My motor is making horrible noise I just hate the thoughts of getting to it to replace.

If you are using R134a going to DuraCool will give you a few degrees colder air also. Would have to evacuate the old to put in the DuraCool. 

The temp drop can only be so much depending on outside temp will vary the temp coming from the vents. 

The fan for sure will not blow your skirt up.

Click to expand...

Way too hot here in S Fl to put the top down in the day!

Was hoping for a HO.new motor...

Intersting question because i have pondered the same. My blower motor is making a lot of noise as well so i am planning to get under there this winter to replace it. I also wish there was an option with more power. I was asking in another thread if we could adapt a center vent where you could move the vanes horizontally so the air will hit you right in the face. The Cougars i think have this option so i wonder if that vent will fit the Mustang. This option will direct the air right at you and feel better when hot.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

Put the top down, lol.

Not much of a way to increase that I know of. My motor is making horrible noise I just hate the thoughts of getting to it to replace.

If you are using R134a going to DuraCool will give you a few degrees colder air also. Would have to evacuate the old to put in the DuraCool. 

The temp drop can only be so much depending on outside temp will vary the temp coming from the vents. 

The fan for sure will not blow your skirt up.

Click to expand...

Way too hot here in S Fl to put the top down in the day!

Was hoping for a HO.new motor...

Click to expand...

LOL, I don't here in the mountains of N.C. unless cloudy day. Sun will cook you for sure. I get asked at shows why you would have an AC in a convertible. My answer is you have never owned a convertible have you? Just like a sun roof if you have one seldom open or you get burnt. 

I am guessing that you could check the dimensions on the motor and locate a motor supplier and see what the rpm differences are. 

You also have to consider there is an optimum speed for the fan to turn go too fast I think they move less air. Also the balance of the fan needs to be right on at higher speeds.

Since these cars had no filter, the wet evaporator coil may have collected the dust and could be plugged up.

If your blower motor is noisy get a few drops of oil on the shaft and work it into the bearings.

Since these cars had no filter, the wet evaporator coil may have collected the dust and could be plugged up.

If your blower motor is noisy get a few drops of oil on the shaft and work it into the bearings.

Click to expand...

Really? This is your suggestion:

"get a few drops of oil on the shaft and work it"

 


rofl

Really? This is your suggestion:

"get a few drops of oil on the shaft and work it"


rofl

Click to expand...

Lol

In my experience, the more lube you use the more noise you get...

Ancient, dried up grease on the bushings, worn brushes, dirty commutator (filled with carbon from the brushes) can all contribute to slow running blower motors. Cleaning and replacing brushes if worn, and lubricating, with a good synthetic grease, like Lucas Red N Tacky, may increase your blower speed considerably. Clean the evaporator and heater core while you have it apart.

I took mine apart when I had the heater box out. I did clean everything and they have impregnated bearings so no lube in there. One other I took apart had broken the bearing in half. 

The squeaking is caused by a worn bearing. If you were to lube it would probably put too much drag on the shaft. I hate it when I get too much drag on my shaft, lol. Don started it.

I took mine apart when I had the heater box out. I did clean everything and they have impregnated bearings so no lube in there. One other I took apart had broken the bearing in half. 

The squeaking is caused by a worn bearing. If you were to lube it would probably put too much drag on the shaft. I hate it when I get too much drag on my shaft, lol. Don started it.

Click to expand...

You can always reduce drag by covering the shaft with a latex cover. :whistling:

I took mine apart when I had the heater box out. I did clean everything and they have impregnated bearings so no lube in there. One other I took apart had broken the bearing in half. 

The squeaking is caused by a worn bearing. If you were to lube it would probably put too much drag on the shaft. I hate it when I get too much drag on my shaft, lol. Don started it.

Click to expand...

The squeaking is caused by a dried out bearing... dried out and squealing will be putting a drag on the motor, lubricating it will decrease the friction.

Don't dip it in oil, get a zoom spout oilier, couple of drops -

my 1978 F150 has factory AC with R34 conversion. it gets cold, but the airflow volume is low. I just assumed it was just the way it was in 1978. for my 73 mach 1, I am planning classic auto air aftermarket kit. for what it cost to get installed, it better blow like a MF.

waiting to hear from a local motor repair shop if it can be rewound to say 9-10 volts to increase rpm.