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71 Mach 1 Mustang Advice


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Hey everyone!

 

New to the mustang world and was looking to see if anyone could help me out and offer some advice. I'm not sure about the market when it comes to mustangs. I dont want to buy a car thats not worth the time and money.

 

I have a car that I'm interested in buying and just wanted to see what you guys think its worth, I'll post some photos below.

 

Its a 71 Mach 1 mustang 351 Cleveland automatic. The car is in pretty good condition it looks like, runs and sounds amazing. It has 84,000 miles on it. A little rust in the floor pan on the driver rear and passenger. Pretty solid everywhere else. The interior needs a little work too. Paint looks good.

 

Thoughts? Is it worth buying and restoring (as a weekend driver)? What do you think its worth?Screenshot-20190826-144122-Video-Player.jpg20190825-120806.jpg

 

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Welcome from Iowa. Looks like a nice car from the pics. There is a lot wrong under the hood. The most glaring is that there is no PCV system in place as well as lots of other incorrect stuff going on. Like you stated the interior is sad. Are you looking for something to be or put back to factory or something to enjoy driving, tinkering, and not too concerned about factory? Or are you looking to put something back to concourse? Giving a value to car based on some pics is nearly impossible. Is the car an "H" code? "M" code? What options did it all come with?

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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Welcome from Iowa. Looks like a nice car from the pics. There is a lot wrong under the hood. The most glaring is that there is no PCV system in place as well as lots of other incorrect stuff going on. Like you stated the interior is sad. Are you looking for something to be or put back to factory or something to enjoy driving, tinkering, and not too concerned about factory? Or are you looking to put something back to concourse? Giving a value to car based on some pics is nearly impossible. Is the car an "H" code? "M" code? What options did it all come with?

 

Thank you!!! And I'm mainly looking to enjoy driving and tinkering at the moment. This will be my first time buying and fixing up a car but one day down the road I might decide to restore it to factory. The car is an H code. I'm not too sure about the options. Really new to all of this but I feel like i gotta start somewhere!

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It's also had some damage to the right rear that either wasn't repaired or repaired porly.

 

Rust on the passenger side front floor is an indication the the cowl may be rusted out and leaking onto the floor. Pull those plastic grates off the cowl, in front of the windshield wipers, and take a look, not easy to see in there with the hood on. You might be able to take some pictures with a cell phone, an inspection camera with a flexible camera cable works best. You'll at least need a mirror. Hard to see from the inside, due to the heater. Removing the glove box helps.

 

You'll also want to look under it, the inside of the rocker panels and the torque boxes are the critical support areas. The torque boxes are what connect the front and rear frame rails to the body.

 

When the seller can't even be bothered with installing the PCV hoses, it makes me wonder what else they couldn't be bothered with.

 

Hard to come up with a price without a complete inspection. Paint can cover too many issues, like rusted out panels bondo'd over then painted.

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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make sure you want an automatic and not a 4spd. for me, shifting is half the fun.

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actually, I think its more like 78% of the fun of having a Mach 1.

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It's also had some damage to the right rear that either wasn't repaired or repaired poorly.

 

Rust on the passenger side front floor is an indication the the cowl may be rusted out and leaking onto the floor. Pull those plastic grates off the cowl, in front of the windshield wipers, and take a look, not easy to see in there with the hood on. You might be able to take some pictures with a cell phone, an inspection camera with a flexible camera cable works best. You'll at least need a mirror. Hard to see from the inside, due to the heater. Removing the glove box helps.

 

You'll also want to look under it, the inside of the rocker panels and the torque boxes are the critical support areas. The torque boxes are what connect the front and rear frame rails to the body.

 

When the seller can't even be bothered with installing the PCV hoses, it makes me wonder what else they couldn't be bothered with.

 

Hard to come up with a price without a complete inspection. Paint can cover too many issues, like rusted out panels bondo'd over then painted.

 

I'll definitely take a look at it to see if its rusted out, I'll have to go the cell phone route. I've got a mechanic whose gonna come take a look at the under side and check out what I might've missed but I'll be sure to mention it to him to look at those areas specifically. 

And the seller came across it as a barn find I think and didnt really do much to it except clean it up a bit.

I am definitely worried about paint cover ups though. ?

Thanks for the info and help!!!

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Do you guys think, from what you can see, that $7,500 is too high of a price? (Given that its hard to price a vehicle based upon the pictures shown).

 

My heart says that's a decent price for a running, driving 71 Mach 1.

 

My gut says there's more to this story. The car has obviously been messed around with, lots of pieces missing, but nothing that can't be fixed. I see A/C controls, but no components under the hood. I also see a tach in the dash, but no center gauges, so that appears to have been added. Rear spoiler is a bad repop or off another model car. To be honest,if it has minimal rust and runs and drives nice, $7500 seems fair. 

 

Anyway, first step is to verify the VIN that it actually is a Mach 1. If it's an H-code 71, it should read "1x05Hxxxxxx". If it has a "02H", it's just a sportsroof with Mach 1 stickers.

 

 

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I have to agree that $7,500 seems like a good price on a running and driving car. I would be looking for sure. Of course I would always try for less. :)

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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Do you guys think, from what you can see, that $7,500 is too high of a price? (Given that its hard to price a vehicle based upon the pictures shown).

 

My heart says that's a decent price for a running, driving 71 Mach 1.

 

My gut says there's more to this story. The car has obviously been messed around with, lots of pieces missing, but nothing that can't be fixed. I see A/C controls, but no components under the hood. I also see a tach in the dash, but no center gauges, so that appears to have been added. Rear spoiler is a bad repop or off another model car. To be honest,if it has minimal rust and runs and drives nice, $7500 seems fair. 

 

Anyway, first step is to verify the VIN that it actually is a Mach 1. If it's an H-code 71, it should read "1x05Hxxxxxx". If it has a "02H", it's just a sportsroof with Mach 1 stickers.

 My thought exactly when I saw the chrome bumper and fender extensions. Basic interior with add-ons, maybe be factory may be not. Order a Marti Report, may be worth the 45 bucks or whatever it is now for a basic report.

My thought would be 5 grand max and more like $3500. He's going to drop at least 20+K in it by the time he's done.

 

Geoff.

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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Hi There 

 

whether "02" or "05" - "H" or "M" -- that looks like a good start for a full restoration to preserve yet another fine 71/73. 

You have the opportunity to make that car look forward to a long life...and then detail with some originality;

which all the guys in here can help with. 

 

I love the 351 Cleveland - I'd open the sump on day 1 to check main journals and change lubricants  -- and I have the same exhaust chrome end points that you have there. 

 

My advice when examining

 

  • check for leaks 
  • If engine starts from cold how much blue/black smoke out those tail pipes?
  • when started - do you have any ticking from hydraulic lifters 
  • Check color of transmission fluid on dipstick - is cherry red not rust brown 
  • Steering fluid is to its mark 
  • Engine oils isn't thick black treacle 
  • or the REAL nasty one - engine oil isn't vomit colored - water oil mixed 
  • go around with thermal infra red gun on each of the exhaust ports check temp uniformity
  • if drive-able - is gear change clunky or smooth
  • any whine from differential ?

 

I hate it though, when those centre upper firewall to shock tower support struts are removed/missing

then the steering fluid u bend is slopping around the engine bay

sig2.jpg

Enjoy's searching out 71-73 history

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That missing Export Brace between the shock towers and the firewall could be a problem couldn't it ? My understanding is that if a car spends time driving without it then the shock towers can collapse inwards somewhat ?

 

It's a nice looking car though if you ask me; if it was for sale here in Australia the asking price would be around $25000.

Brett

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if you are happy with an automatic, and this 71 Mach 1 is rust free and runs and drives ok, splitting hairs between 7500, 5000 or even 3500 is getting a bit crazy. good condition 71-73 Mach 1's regularly auction for 15-20k. really junk mach 1's on craigslist are easy to find at 12-15k. if you've found a good driver for $7500 thats a very good price. if on the other hand you are looking to restore the car, I would spend more money to find one just a little better.

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Haha With these comments and suggested prices, she will soon be the weekly $999.00 special...

 

So, did you buy that $30k coupe or what?

 

I'm negotiating based on these prices, I'll probably offer $1500.00...

"Yes dear", has kept me in the hobby a long time...

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7500 is okay, if you can live with the paint job and the current body work. If you feel the need to have that all redone-then buy the nicest car you can find instead. If on the other hand it looks good to you and you can live with the cosmetic flaws, everything else can be fixed it just takes a few things, unlimited time, unlimited cash and unlimited patience

http://www.7173mustangs.com/gallery/1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png

 

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!

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Everyone says I bash them too much but a spade is a spade. You cannot restore this car and make any money if he gave you the car. It is impossible....

The cowl is rusted out or the front floor would not rust. They never rust from outside in. 

With the shock tower braces off the car can bend very easily I mean and inch even with one big bump. 

I turned down an M code 4 speed that was a vinyl roof for $2,000 I think just over 100 made. 

You are much better off finding a rust free car to go with. A car needing restoration with no rust in my opinion should be between $5,000 - $7,000 depending on options.

On Ebay they sold a 1973 Convertible that had never been washed much less in the rain. 351 4-V 4 speed with side stipes, PW, PDB, PS, AC, NASA hood pretty much every option and it only brought $30,000. The values that NADA put and Hagerdy are way off from reality. 

I would not buy this car very low options and not a desirable model for sure.

I own 7 and look at them frequently and turn down a bunch. They are a money pit and do not bring much money when you sell. 

I love them but they are not an investment for sure just a pleasure thing. 

Go looking for a rust free car way easier and less money.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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Everyone says I bash them too much but a spade is a spade. You cannot restore this car and make any money if he gave you the car. It is impossible....

The cowl is rusted out or the front floor would not rust. They never rust from outside in. 

With the shock tower braces off the car can bend very easily I mean and inch even with one big bump. 

I turned down an M code 4 speed that was a vinyl roof for $2,000 I think just over 100 made. 

You are much better off finding a rust free car to go with. A car needing restoration with no rust in my opinion should be between $5,000 - $7,000 depending on options.

On Ebay they sold a 1973 Convertible that had never been washed much less in the rain. 351 4-V 4 speed with side stipes, PW, PDB, PS, AC, NASA hood pretty much every option and it only brought $30,000. The values that NADA put and Hagerdy are way off from reality. 

I would not buy this car very low options and not a desirable model for sure.

I own 7 and look at them frequently and turn down a bunch. They are a money pit and do not bring much money when you sell. 

I love them but they are not an investment for sure just a pleasure thing. 

Go looking for a rust free car way easier and less money.

 

You bash them too much LOL

"Yes dear", has kept me in the hobby a long time...

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But guys - surely one can preserve a car with the intention to drive and have fun, do time travel, be a pussy magnet like 4x4 Mister  :P  ... not necessarily make m00lah from. Or am I off base here?

Agree 100%.

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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