Jump to content

kill switch


Recommended Posts

Any one running a hidden kill switch or anything as a security measure?  

Car is finally getting to the point i can take it out to run errands etc.... 

I try to always stay within eye shot but that can be annoying or just not possible sometimes.  

 

Im thinking a hidden kill switch would give me a little confidence that it wont be driven away within 60 seconds and used in an epic police chase. :chin:

 

If not a kill switch what are you using?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Because our hoods have no security it would just take 10 seconds to run a jumper from the battery to the coil and a screwdriver across the battery cable and "S" terminal on the starter solenoid, so you probably need to come up with a hood lock along with a cutoff switch.

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tucaz529,

I have two hydraulic locks on the brake lines. One in the cab and another under the hood.

You can hot wire the car but it ain't going nowhere with the locks on. And with the audible siren going off while they

are trying to find the locks make it kinda secure.

If they want your car bad enuff, they is going to get it.

 

Bru

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Agreed if they want it they will get it. Im more worried about the opportunistic thief that wants to hop in and take a joy ride.

 

Interesting idea with Hydraulic locks are they manually operated or are they controlled with a solenoid and a key fob?

 

I used to have the grant removable steering wheel kit on a daily driver but i gave up on it and walking around with steering wheel got annoying.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You could ground the coil through a switch. If you do that even if the coil wire is jumped it wont start. Or if you have an electric pump run it through a relay controlled by a switch.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had a Ravelco installed when I got Christine 6.5 years ago and watched the install.

 

There is NO way they can hotwire/jump or do anything to start the car. They want it, they will need to tow it.

 

My plug is under the dash, so you can't even see where to insert the male plug to match up. Paid $500 but feel that's it well worth it.

 

https://www.ravelco.com/

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good idea but  i dont wanna lift the hood  every time i park.

Hydraulic Locks

I have one under the dash and another under the hood.

Mine are manual valve. I step on the break and turn the knob closed which keeps the pressure on the breaks.

When I'm at a hotel or car show I'll close the one under the hood also. that way if they find the one under the dash,

the breaks are still locked. I also have a gps tracker that has a prepaid sim card that works with google maps to show

the cars location.

$40 for the hydraulic locks

$100 for the gps tracker

 

I put too much effort into the car to not want to save it.

 

Bru

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good idea but  i dont wanna lift the hood  every time i park.

Hydraulic Locks

I have one under the dash and another under the hood.

Mine are manual valve. I step on the break and turn the knob closed which keeps the pressure on the breaks.

When I'm at a hotel or car show I'll close the one under the hood also. that way if they find the one under the dash,

the breaks are still locked. I also have a gps tracker that has a prepaid sim card that works with google maps to show

the cars location.

$40 for the hydraulic locks

$100 for the gps tracker

 

I put too much effort into the car to not want to save it.

 

Bru

Which GPS tracker are you using? Is it connected to the car battery?

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have been thinking of this stuff as the world begins to see my project on the road.  I didn't know about the hydraulic lock.  That could be great for the 4-speed car.

 

Has anyone set up an electronic lock on the starter cable?  I installed one of those PMGA (or whatever they are called) newer tech starters.  There is a small wire coming off the starter that I am unsure what it does.  I thought it would be cool if that were some kind of disarm lead that would make the starter not engage.

 

Anyway, I am looking for options too.

 

kcmash

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That wire is used to energize the solenoid on top of the starter.

 

This is for a newer type solenoid, but the connections are the same. This setup keeps the "I" terminal on the solenoid connected to your coil.

http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/pmgr-starter-wiring.html

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good idea but  i dont wanna lift the hood  every time i park.

Hydraulic Locks

I have one under the dash and another under the hood.

Mine are manual valve. I step on the break and turn the knob closed which keeps the pressure on the breaks.

When I'm at a hotel or car show I'll close the one under the hood also. that way if they find the one under the dash,

the breaks are still locked. I also have a gps tracker that has a prepaid sim card that works with google maps to show

the cars location.

$40 for the hydraulic locks

$100 for the gps tracker

 

I put too much effort into the car to not want to save it.

 

Bru

Which GPS tracker are you using? Is it connected to the car battery?

I have the ITracker I.

Yes, it is connected to 12v but once it losses power it has a 5 day internal battery life.

No monthly fee and it has an enteral microphone you can toggle on or off.

Mine was bought several years ago and the new ones are much better.

I like it.

Bru

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hydraulic Locks

I have one under the dash and another under the hood.

Mine are manual valve. I step on the break and turn the knob closed which keeps the pressure on the breaks.

When I'm at a hotel or car show I'll close the one under the hood also. that way if they find the one under the dash,

the breaks are still locked. I also have a gps tracker that has a prepaid sim card that works with google maps to show

the cars location.

$40 for the hydraulic locks

$100 for the gps tracker

 

I put too much effort into the car to not want to save it.

 

Bru

Which GPS tracker are you using? Is it connected to the car battery?

I have the ITracker I.

Yes, it is connected to 12v but once it losses power it has a 5 day internal battery life.

No monthly fee and it has an enteral microphone you can toggle on or off.

Mine was bought several years ago and the new ones are much better.

I like it.

Bru

Is this the one you are talking about?

https://www.amazon.com/iTrackers-Defender-Waterproof-Motorbikes-Countries/dp/B0782L34FD/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=ITracker+gps&qid=1568302426&sr=8-6

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I remember seeing an article awhile back about harvesting a hood latch mechanism w/cable from an F-150, or 'early-'80s T-bird, Cougar, LTD, et al.  Of course, it won't you win any concourse shows... but then again "technically," neither would your car being stolen.   :whistling:

 

I'll have to dig it up later - as I'm at work now.

Eric

mach1sig2.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hood-Security-Lock.jpg

 

This was the security on my J Code Vert when she first arrived from the USA...I suspect it was put on during its tenure in Tuscon, AZ and just left on when the son moved the car up to his barn in Spokane, WA. Yes, it was chain link under the sheathing.). Maybe that is why the ram air and air filter canister set up was still complete on the car :)

"Yes dear", has kept me in the hobby a long time...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Which GPS tracker are you using? Is it connected to the car battery?

I have the ITracker I.

Yes, it is connected to 12v but once it losses power it has a 5 day internal battery life.

No monthly fee and it has an enteral microphone you can toggle on or off.

Mine was bought several years ago and the new ones are much better.

I like it.

Bru

Is this the one you are talking about?

https://www.amazon.com/iTrackers-Defender-Waterproof-Motorbikes-Countries/dp/B0782L34FD/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=ITracker+gps&qid=1568302426&sr=8-6

No sir, that one requires a monthly fee.

This is the one I have.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/iTrack-TK102-Magnetic-Personal-Tracking/dp/B076WWVNTX

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good ideas by everybody.

I like the non traditional or mainstream approach.

hard to beat a system quickly if you have never seen it. In the End i know its only one flat bed from being taken but i dont intend on leaving it anywhere long enough for that to happen.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

came across this...

 

but also got me thinking that its nearly the year 2020 , i thought by the year 2000 we were all supposed to have jet packs.

well i dont have my jet pack do you? but i do have a smart phone and its capable of amazing things. now i need someone smarter than my self to shoot holes in this theory for me or confirm it.

 

leaning back towards the kill switch basically all that needs to be done is to be able to cut the signal to the stater or dist???

i did a interwebs search for 12v bluetooth enabled relay and there are tons of options. so then it should be possible to hide this so deep behind the dash it cant be seen or anywhere else and use your phone to turn on/off this relay which is the kill switch correct? This eliminates the worry of having to have a switch that you can reach to manually turn on or off.

 

disclaimer i am not smart on electronics or technology thats why i am asking if this can be picked apart.

 

there are some obvious liabilities that will have to be accepted.

1 you lose your phone and cant activate the switch

2 the battery dies

3 no idea of the electrical draw of these devices but should be able to connect it to a cell phone type power bank that charges as you drive

4 thief can still open the hood and use a jump wire. but as seen above a locking hood release cable is possible.

5 security will you be able to prevent others from connecting their phone to it?

 

here is an example of specs for one of these devices.

Capacity:12V

With this Bluetooth 4.0 BLE relay, you can control some electronic devices through your iPhone or Android phone. This will make your project more interesting.It comes with a protective shell.The shell is effective in blocking dust and static electricity.

 

Specification:

Built-in DSD TECH SH-HC-08 Bluetooth 4.0 BLE module supports iOS devices(iPhone and iPad) and Android 4.3 and later devices.

Equipped with 12V, 10 A / 250 V AC; 10 A / 30 VDC relay, the relay has long service life and can absorb 100,000 times continuously.

Control distance up to 10m (open space environment)

Bluetooth 4.0 BLE specification

Module operating voltage(VCC):DC 12 v

DC control maximum voltage: DC 30 v

Switching control maximum voltage: AC 250 v

Maximum load power: 600W

 

 

About APP:

For Android : please search "DSD TECH Bluetooth" in the Google Play.

For iOS Devices (iPhone or iPad):please search "DSD TECH Bluetooth" in the Appstore.

 

Precautions:

1,This Bluetooth relay is Bluetooth 4.0 specification and is not compatible with any Bluetooth 2.0 SPP device.

2, the maximum load power should not exceed 600W. The relay may be damaged when the load exceeds 600W.

3, This Bluetooth relay uses the Bluetooth 4.0 BLE protocol. The encrypted connection is not enabled. It is not applicable to applications that require data security.

 

Control instruction(Hexadecimal format):

Channel 1 ON: A00101A2

Channel 1 OFF: A00100A1

Channel 2 ON: A00201A3

Channel 2 OFF: A00200A2

Channel 3 ON: A00301A4

Channel 3 OFF: A00300A3

Channel 4 ON: A00401A5

Channel 4 OFF: A00400A4

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ok someone with more electrical brains than me check my work PLEASE!!!!!

I bought a remote operated relay instead of the bluetooth controlled one but this is how i tested my theory.

 

1. Ran 12 volts to the device and a green led came on.

2. Tested for continuity between the 3 remaining terminals on the device. I picked the 2 that did not have continuity.

3. pressed the button on the remote and gained continuity. (using a mulitmeeter to test)

4. disconnected the pos wire from the battery to make sure there was no continuity when the ignition is off.

5. reconnected 12v to make sure continuity was not restored which it wasnt

6. pressed the button on the remote and continuity was restored.

 

This was to simulate the car being parked and turned off and no continuity to either the dist or the ign switch.

In my uneducated test above it worked as desired. This is basically just a modern spin on a toggle kill switch, the benefit is that the device can be buried so deep that it cant be found. Simply push the button on the key fob and continuity is restored without reaching for a hidden switch.

 

now what im worried about.

The device is a small circuit board with micro relay on it. the relay is rated at 12v 10 amp.

If i use this on the dist wire will that handle the current the whole time the car is running?

If i use it on the ignition switch will 10 amp be enough? im assuming the draw while cranking is higher than 10 amps.

 

hxeDVIV.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ok someone with more electrical brains than me check my work PLEASE!!!!!

I bought  a remote operated relay instead of the bluetooth controlled one but this is how i tested my theory.

 

1. Ran 12 volts to the device and a green led came on.

2. Tested for continuity between the 3 remaining terminals on the device.  I picked the 2 that did not have continuity.

3. pressed the button on the remote and gained continuity.  (using a mulitmeeter  to test)

4. disconnected the pos wire from the battery to make sure there was no continuity when the ignition is off.

5. reconnected 12v to make sure continuity was not restored which it wasnt

6. pressed the button on the remote and continuity was restored.

 

This was to simulate the car being parked and turned off and no continuity to either the dist or the ign switch.

In my uneducated test above  it worked as desired.  This is basically just a modern spin on a toggle kill switch, the benefit is that the device can be buried so deep that it cant be found.  Simply push the button on the key fob and continuity is restored without reaching for a hidden switch. 

 

now what im worried about.

The device is a small circuit board with  micro relay on it.  the relay is rated at 12v 10 amp. 

If i use this on the dist wire will that handle the current the whole time the car is running?

If i use it on the ignition switch will 10 amp be enough? im assuming the draw while cranking is higher than 10 amps. 

If you use it for ignition, just connect the negative side of the coil to ground through the relay. However, you will want to connect the relay in normally off mode so when you press the remote it will be on. In that way you don't get current through it while the car is running.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The coil uses between 5 and 6 amps, so using it in the coil wire should be OK, if the rating is accurate.

 

It will not work in the wire to the ignition switch, that wire not only provides current to the coil but to all accessories that only function when the key is on, like heater, radio, turn signals, etc., and would overload the relay.

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×
×
  • Create New...