Power steering leak

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Joined
Apr 8, 2015
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Location
Upstate NY
My Car
71 Mach 1, 351c 4v, C6 trans, grabber blue with white interior
After a drive recently, I noticed some smoke coming from the drivers side of the engine. I checked around to see if I would notice anything and tightened valve covers in case it was oil. Didnt really see any wetness on the manifold, power steering fluid is correct level, master cylinder is proper level.

I did notice some wetness on the part below that is part of the power steering especially in the one corner. What is it actually?? Does it get fluid from the power steering pump and if so, wouldnt I see that level go down? Is the gasket on top leaking? Would that be the cause of the smoking?

Not really familiar with power steering so hopefully it is an easy fix.

Power_Steering1.jpg

Thanks!

 
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I'm not sure exactly what you mean. Can you edit your pic to include an arrow to show where the issue is?

PS boxes can and do leak from fittings, input seal, cap "O" ring and sector shaft seals. If it recently started to leak the pump level might not yet show it's lower then normal.

There are several of us on here who have rebuilt or modified PS boxes, but we need more details. Smoke I would think means oil is getting on the exhaust manifold.

Geoff.

 
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That's the top of the power steering gear box. Because of the pressure in the pressure hose a tiny hole can spray a fine mist all over. The exhaust manifold and pipe are right there, so there's a good chance you have a power steering leak. I would look around that area with a good light when the engine is running to see if you see anything. It helps to have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth a little to pressurize everything. Be careful of moving/rotating parts.

 
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That's the top of the power steering gear box. Because of the pressure in the pressure hose a tiny hole can spray a fine mist all over. The exhaust manifold and pipe are right there, so there's a good chance you have a power steering leak.  I would look around that area with a good light when the engine is running to see if you see anything. It helps to have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth a little to pressurize everything. Be careful of moving/rotating parts.
 Good point Don.

 
So it may be the pressure hose as opposed to the gasket on the power steering pump itself? Are the hoses fairly straightforward to replace or is there some technique to remove them?

The fact that it is smoking off the manifold almost sounds like there is a spray involved. Also, how good is Lucas Stop-leak as a quick fix?

Thanks!

 
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So it may be the pressure hose as opposed to the gasket on the power steering pump itself? Are the hoses fairly straightforward to replace or is there some technique to remove them?

The fact that it is smoking off the manifold almost sounds like there is a spray involved. Also, how good is Lucas Stop-leak as a quick fix?

Thanks!
 PS hoses are quite easy to replace, but can be a pita without the right tools. There's not much room down there to swing a wrench, so I have found a set of "crow foot" 3/8" drive, with a long extension work quite well. If I remember, the sizes are 11/16" and 5/8". It's important to get the high pressure inlet hose tight at the box. Goes without saying of course. First before you remove any lines, make sure you clean the fittings of dirt and loose crap, you don't want any of that getting inside the valve body. Once you have replaced the line(s) you could remove the PS pump belt so you can turn the pump by hand to prime the new HP line. Then replace the belt an tension it. DON"T do what dumbass here did and use a pry bar under the pump case to add tension, you'll dent it for sure and could cause a leak on the pump reservoir. If you don't want to do that, you probably have not lost much fluid so there will be enough to start the motor, have someone turn the s/wheel LTL a few times, then top it off with FORD type "F" (trans fluid). Recheck when hot, you should be good to go.

Stop leak is NOT a good idea.

Hope that helps, 

Geoff.

PS, when tightening the lines at the box, you'll need to hold the fitting so it won't turn as you tighten. While at it replace both HP and return.

 
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Since I didnt see any obvious spray leaks, yesterday I tried a quick test. I wrapped the lower portion of the high pressure hose with some duct tape. Not as a fix but more that if there was a pinhole leak that the tape would obstruct the spray enough to indicate a leak was present.

After running the car, I didnt notice any smoke coming from the manifold but the steering gear box still had oil on it. Also, the tape that was originally dry had oil on it. So, something is leaking in that area.

Needless to say, new hoses are on order. The steering gear box is probably still OK.

As mentioned, a crowfoot wrench would work in that area and they do make ratcheting ones which would probably be needed due to such a small space.

Thanks for the tips!

 
It is a pain to get at. I just took an old cheap wrench and heated it up in the vice to bend it. (I can sometimes be a little cheap but also didn't want to run to the store). Make sure everything is clean prior to disassembly as you don't want any crud getting into the system. Also be sure to inspect the threads and inside the casting for any nicks or gouges as this will make the new ones leak just as the current one is. Hope this helps.

 
You can get Crowfoot wrenches that fit on a socket wrench. Then you can use a long extension to get to places like this. There are also flare nut Crowfoot socket wrenches available.

https://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece-3-8-eighth-inch-crowfoot-sae-wrench-set-94426.html

https://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece-sae-crowfoot-flarenut-wrench-set-93137.html
 Mine are just regular crow-foot, Harbor Freight didn't have the Flare nut type when I got my set, or I would for sure have bought those. Even with a long 3/8" extension, it's a bit of pita to get the best angle especially if there is a booster in the way.

Buy the Flare type would be best bet for this job.

Geoff.

 
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I use the flare type whenever I can, even on regular bolts and nuts, one less PITA not having the wrench slip off the nut, plus grips better, and more leverage available with the ratchet or breaker bar (compared to an end wrench).

 
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I use the flare type whenever I can, even on regular bolts and nuts, one less PITA not having the wrench slip off the nut, plus grips better, and more leverage available with the ratchet or breaker bar (compared to an end wrench).
Too true!

 
Do you guys put any thread sealant on the fittings going to the gear box or pump, especially the high pressure one?

I'm was thinking of maybe a Permatex liquid sealant as opposed to teflon tape.

thoughts?

Its actually not to bad getting to the lower fittings if the support brace is moved out of the way and using the crows foot socket.

Thanks!

 
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Do you guys put any thread sealant on the fittings going to the gear box or pump, especially the high pressure one?

I'm was thinking of maybe a Permatex liquid sealant as opposed to teflon tape.

thoughts?

Its actually not to bad getting to the lower fittings if the support brace is moved out of the way and using the crows foot socket.

Thanks!

If it's flare tubing as the power steering lines are then a sealant will not do any good.  The seal is created at the flare and the seat.  Sealant on the threads will not prevent a leak.  The leak will still occur between the nut and the tubing.  Also putting sealant on a the flare or seat can cause issues with contaminating the fluid and posing other problems.  But to say  I haven't put sealant on a flare would be lying.  Have done it after all else has failed and have been extremely careful of trying to keep it from getting into the system.  The one area I will not do it on is the brakes.  To much at risk.  If the flare leaks then I  re-flare or replace the line.

 
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Good question. Brother in law sells ac and I have used the product helping him. For those who don't know Nylog is a sealant developed for the HVAC industry and has found other uses in the market place.

There are two types, red and blue. The blue is made of POE oil which is a type of synthetic oil used in refrigeration compressors. The red is a mineral oil base product and probably would not cause any problems in the trans or power steering. I would use sparingly. You have to remember that any foreign material that might gel of clump can cause problems by blocking passages and ports.

Remember there are 3 types of flares. Single, double and bubble. Our mustangs use the single on the ps and trans. The brakes use the double.

Also, most leaks that occur on flare lines happen from over tightening and distorting the flare especially on the brake lines. Odds are that if the flare leaks at the seat you are going to have a leak regardless of where you put any type of thread sealer.

There are specific torque values for tightening flare fittings based on the usage and type of tubing used. A good general rule of thumb to use is first try to seat the flare in the fitting by pushing the line in. Next, start tightening the nut until snug. Once snug give 1/4 to 1/2 more turns. Test for leaks.

If needed, do 1/8 of a turn at a time until leak stops. Do not overtighten. If leak does not stop take line back off and check for any dirt or cracks on the flare. Wipe clean and try again.

I would still not use Nylog on brake lines.

 
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