Reinstalling Interior

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Location
Ross, Ohio
My Car
71 Sportsroof Bright Red.

I will be starting to reinstall my interior in a few weeks.  Has anyone put a list together of in what order to reinstall the interior for a fastback.  

Such as - Install

1. roof insulation

2. headliner

3. sail panels

etc.

I did a search and didn't find anything.  Be nice to have to make sure you don't skip over anything or get things out of order and find out you have to undo several hours worth of work to get the piece in. 

I be willing to do it but this is going to be my first go around on a Mustang and am not for sure which would be the best order.

 
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Good Start!

Dome light wiring and fixture

Roof Insulation

Package tray rear fascia - The big black metal piece that goes from the package tray to the rear window.

Headliner tack strips

Sail Panel Brackets

Headliner and sail panels

Package tray and border pieces

Headliner window trim pieces

Coat hooks and visors

A pillar to C pillar weatherstrip channel and weatherstrip

Rear window assemblies

Defroster vents and dash speaker

Heater Box Assembly

Pedal box and steering column

Dash board assembly/Radio/Center Stack

Dash Pad

Carpet

Shifter and boot assy

Rear interior 1/4 panels

Rear Seats

Front Seats

Door Panels( Assuming you have door guts loaded.

kcmash

Steering wheel,

 
Thanks kcmash.  That helps a lot.  I have a 71 fastback with fold down seat. Looks like I need to put in the trap door after the headliner and sail panels.

 
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I have a question about sequence as well

I have the instrument cluster and bezel as well as shrouds in and the driver side

I cant figure out how to install the center bezel

Q: where does it fasten and how?

Does it go in after the dash pad ?

If not... does the radio and heater control have to be in place so the radio bezel holds it in?

I’ve had to retouch the dash due to scratches left by the center bezel.

Any input is greatly appreciated

 
I have a question about sequence as well

I have the instrument cluster and bezel as well as shrouds in and the driver side

I cant figure out how to install the center bezel

Q: where does it fasten and how?

Does it go in after the dash pad ?

If not... does the radio and heater control have to be in place so the radio bezel holds it in?

I’ve had to retouch the dash due to scratches left by the center bezel.

Any input is greatly appreciated
Yep, Kinda awkward.  The center Stack should go in before the dash pad, and yes, the radio bezel holds the stack in.  You should have the heater controls in before installing in my opinion.  When you position the radio bezel there are screws that face straight up and thread into little u-nuts in the front of the dash frame.

Sorry I don't have pictures

kcmash

 
I have a question about sequence as well

I have the instrument cluster and bezel as well as shrouds in and the driver side

I cant figure out how to install the center bezel

Q: where does it fasten and how?

Does it go in after the dash pad ?

If not... does the radio and heater control have to be in place so the radio bezel holds it in?

I’ve had to retouch the dash due to scratches left by
Yep, Kinda awkward.  The center Stack should go in before the dash pad, and yes, the radio bezel holds the stack in.  You should have the heater controls in before installing in my opinion.  When you position the radio bezel there are screws that face straight up and thread into little u-nuts in the front of the dash frame.

Sorry I don't have pictures

kcmash
Thanks! That really helps. Yes I was wondering about that and now I know the radio bezel does more than cover the opening and hold the radios in front

So thanks again!!!

 
I like to put the entire dash assembly in as one piece. Load it with everything: wiring, gauges, center stack, radio, heater controls, etc. Do all the hard work on the bench and, pop it in the car and you have a half dozen or so connections to make that take minutes, instead of hours.

To add to kcmash's post - adjust the quarter and door windows after installing the roof rail weatherstripping, but before putting the quarter trim and door panels on.

 
I like to put the entire dash assembly in as one piece. Load it with everything: wiring, gauges, center stack, radio, heater controls, etc. Do all the hard work on the bench and, pop it in the car and you have a half dozen or so connections to make that take minutes, instead of hours.

To add to kcmash's post - adjust the quarter and door windows after installing the roof rail weatherstripping, but before putting the quarter trim and door panels on.
I like this idea....should be easy peasy on a convertible too!

 
What do you all use for the door scuff plate support that goes under the carpet?

 

Do you have a picture of the back ?  Great idea and really like the stands.

Here yow go, the best shot's I have from the back side...
These are great!  :thankyouyellow: Now -do you have the dimensions of your stands? Just kidding. LOL

 
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For sure do the dash assembly on the bench or a stand. When you go back in a couple extra hands are great also. 

One thing on all the wiring under the dash. You can buy rolls of the non stick wrapping tape they use and make it look much better. Clean all the connection for any of the wiring with steel wool wire brush, whatever it takes to get any corrosion off and apply the electrical grease to every connection and every light bulb base. 

I cannot get to my pictures of doing my vert but to keep any critters from ever getting in the car I put 1/4" box wire over the connection of the heater box to the cowl. The repo heater box foam sucks in some areas. They do give you two pieces of foam for the connection to the cowl so I put the mesh wire between the foam pieces. 

If you do not have AC then you will need to put over the air vent on the passenger side also. Then I also zip tie a piece of the wire mesh on the back side of the cowl vent plastic grills. I spray the wire mesh flat black and you can not even see it. The holes in the plastic pieces are large enough for snakes and mice to get in and build a nest in the cowl. On each end of the cowl there is a drain for water I take a stainless steel pot scrubber pad and cut off a piece and put in each side. This closes off all areas of access for critters to the cowl. 

When you are putting your windows back in I like to use the Lucas Red N Tacky #2 grease instead of the old white grease. Lube the window regulators, channels, guide rods and rollers and you will be amazed how easy they roll up and down. 

As stated by another member have your roof rail weather strip in place to adjust your windows and also have your door seals on and doors adjusted. I would leave the door panels and rear side panels off until just about finished. Getting the up stops and tilt on the windows will take some time. If the windows go up too far will be hard to close the doors and will push the glass out of position. 

Also be sure all the water drain holes in the bottom of the door and quarter panel in front of the rear wheel are open so that any rain water can get out. I would brush some sealer inside the doors and quarter if the body shop did not but you have to have drains open. 

I do not know what your radio is but the bezel has a different opening size depending on what you have. AM, AM/FM uses the same bezel. The AM / 8 Track has a taller opening. 

There is a couple ground wires under the dash you need to get back on and good clean surface. In the center for the fan I believe and if you have convenience group a couple for the lights under the dash. 

There are copies of the assembly manuals available from Osborne reproductions in Georgia also. They are hard to read lines are so faint. They are what the assembly line had to go by. 

You have the fold down so be sure you put the trim that goes across the car in the very back in place before you install the rear window. You cannot put in or take out with window in place. 

I just do not have most of my pics so cannot post any for reference.

 
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