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Wilwood brake kit wil-140-13477 from summit. Review/install


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I ordered this kit from summit Wednesday and it came in today, friday. Great service from summit as always. The box was in tact. It had no over packing box. But it was undamaged,  which is amazing seeing it weighs 60 lbs.

 

Opening the box, it looks like a bunch of parts thrown in a box. No fancy styrofoam or packing blisters. They could improve their packaging. 

 

Inside you get 2 rotors, 2 sets of pads, 2 caliper brackets, 2 calipers, 2 hoses and fittings,  bolts for disc spindles,  bolts for drum spindles,  and bolts for the calipers.  Also you get bearings,  nut, cage and cotter pin and a shiney new hub cap. 

 

I took off the front tires, and then worked the drums loose on both sides.

 

Then I got the tire, flipped it over and placed in the rotor, caliper bracket and caliper. One of my big unknowns was if it would clear drum brake 14" magnum 500 wheels. I'm happy to report that there is plenty of clearance.  

 

Not in the kit but also required are, 71 mustang disc brake pedal,  brake booster, proportional valve, disc master cylinder.

 

Total Parts - $1000.00

 

Original 71 Mustang Disc Brake Pedal

$50.00 from a forum member.

 

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Leed Brakes 9" Booster for 71 Mustang.   Part number PB0012  $199.00

 

https://leedbrakes.com/i-21155650-9-inch-power-brake-booster-black.html

 

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Wilwood Front Disc Conversion Kit # Wil-140-13477 from Summit Racing. $575.00

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-140-13477/

 

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Wilwood Proportional Valve # 260-11179  $90.00

 

Ckvz9T0.png

 

 

Cardone Select Disc Master Cylinder 

 

CJ Pony Parts #13-1378 - $70.00

 

 

new-master-cylinder.jpg

THE VERDICT!

 

Wow!  Talk about stopping power.  The car stops better than ever before.  Its like driving a completely different car now.  I highly recommend this kit.  The kit itself was easy to install.  The brake booster and new lines were somewhat more difficult, but mostly just painstaking to get to.  In the end it was more than worth it.

"I drank what?" - Socrates

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Awesome kit, but I thought all the 71-73 mustangs came with front disk brakes. My 73 had front disk brakes from the factory

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Jowens,

Looks like a great addition to your car for sure, once you get it sorted out. One of my buddies did a 4 wheel disc conversion on a 64 brand X with the same type of kit. He, who is a professional mechanic struggled with the instructions and many variable options and parts included in the kit. He felt the same as you when first opening the box...... The customer / technical assistance is marginal, at best. There is a light at the end of the tunnel and he was able to conquer this project and I'm sure you will too !!!

Thanks, Jay

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I'm more than confident that everything will work great. I've seen a few videos and the only pain seems to be getting the calipers centered with the correct shims. This part should be a piece of cake.

 

The real bear of this is going to be the brake booster and brake pedal portion. All that stuff is buried under the dash and difficult to get to. But we will get it done!

"I drank what?" - Socrates

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Deep sockets, long extensions, and swivels help to get to the nuts that hold the booster. No easy way to get the hairpin, switch, and push rod off the brake pedal or the pedal pivot bolt out. I can't twist and bend like I used to, so taking the driver's seat out really makes it easier for me.

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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Yeah, there's nothing fun about getting the nuts on or off the upper booster studs. The factory ones are a PITA as they are a displaced metal locknut - hard all the way off.

 

 

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Remove for sure the seat and opens up a lot of space. While you are at it, you could remove the steering column and replace the firewall seal. By doing this now you will open a lot of space.

Good luck!

 

Edit: i just realized these are the front brakes and not the rear so i deleted the part abot parking brake.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Remove for sure the seat and opens up a lot of space. While you are at it, you could remove the steering column and replace the firewall seal. By doing this now you will open a lot of space.

Good luck!

 

Edit: i just realized these are the front brakes and not the rear so i deleted the part abot parking brake.

 

And now that I get my head straight I am realizing that this is the same kit I installed. The trickiest part of the install is that you need to drill two holes in the spindle. For these to be square you will need a drill press. I did it myself using a drill press we have at work. You should also buy a good thread tap of the size recommended in the instructions. These threads have to be square with the spindle surface so the calipers end up straight.

 

Edit: expect to have a lot of leftover bolts. They send a few different sizes and you won't use them all.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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The holes in the spindle are for disc spindles I believe, at least that's what the instructions say.

 

Anyway, 3 hours in, were still cleaning crud off of everything. Its amazing how much caked on crap on all the suspension there is.

 

 

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"I drank what?" - Socrates

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One thing about it, all of that caked on grease is a good rust preventative, the spindle cleaned up pretty good.

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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Yea that is true. Nothing in there is rusted. It's all got 1/4" to 1/2" thick mud and oil. Some of this metal hasn't seen daylight in 30 to 40 years I think.

"I drank what?" - Socrates

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Great job. And yes, i had disc spindles. Looks a lot easier with the drum spindles.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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there's nothing fun about getting the nuts on or off the upper booster studs. The factory ones are a PITA as they are a displaced metal locknut - hard all the way off.

My 71 were rusty and each of the bolt threads resisted till last turn despite penetrating oil added days earlier, the upper ones even more as they are hard to reach. It's only when the last one resisted so much I thought: ok, the seat goes out! The thread went smooth 1/2 turn later and spend 1/2 hour looking for one of the seat nuts that rolled under the car :D

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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yea I hear ya Fabrice. We fought hard today, We got the caliper bracket on one side, got the lines situated on both sides. The biggest pain today was finding a 12 point socket. I dont have any. The lock nuts for the caliper bracket were 12 point. So I went to Ace Hardware, nope, Advanced auto, nope. The guy at advanced said hey, go to sears around the corner, they are closing down and have great deals. So I went and got a nice mechanic tool set with 12 point sockets and 6 point sockets and some other stuff. The sticker was $70, I paid $40. Nice deal. We Also got the old master cylinder out. It was no fun.

 

I had to break off for half the day to do the weekend yard work. But my son cleaned and scraped for 2 hours on the drivers side. I still need to go in there and do a final clean.

 

More to come tomorrow.

"I drank what?" - Socrates

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yea I hear ya Fabrice.  We fought hard today, We got the caliper bracket on one side, got the lines situated on both sides. The biggest pain today was finding a 12 point socket.  I dont have any.  The lock nuts for the caliper bracket were 12 point.  So I went to Ace Hardware, nope, Advanced auto, nope.  The guy at advanced said hey, go to sears around the corner, they are closing down and have great deals.  So I went and got a nice mechanic tool set with 12 point sockets and 6 point sockets and some other stuff.  The sticker was $70, I paid $40.  Nice deal.  We Also got the old master cylinder out.  It was no fun.

 

I had to break off for half the day to do the weekend yard work.  But my son cleaned and scraped for 2 hours on the drivers side.  I still need to go in there and do a final clean.

 

More to come tomorrow.

harbor fright has the 12 point or star socket set on the cheep side  for anyone else that  do this project

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Well phase 1 is complete! Brakes are on!

 

We test fit the wheel and there are no clearance ussues!.

 

Now comes the hard part, removing the master cylinder and installing the brake booster and disc master cylinder.

 

Getting the dust cap on was interesting. I suppose I could have just pounded on it till it went in, but instead, I beveled the outer edge of the cap lip with my dremel and a sanding drum. Went right in after that.

 

 

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"I drank what?" - Socrates

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Not to be a smart alec but every wilwood kit I have installed the calipers were on the front side of the axle/ spindle. Not ripping on you just saving you head ache, but I know yours where drums from the factory so maybe your kit is different.

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Notice how the tie rod end is behind the mount on both sides. They don't do a very good job saying right or left sides

 

Here is a hotrod article on 67 drum brake conversion, but still they should mark or say right or left.

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/brake-system-upgrade-install-wilwood-dynalite-brakes-1967-mustang/

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I see that now. Damn they need to clarify their instructions.

 

Do you think it will make any difference? I sure dont want to tear all that apart and redo it, especially with all those bolts in with red loctite. I had to break one of those loose yesterday and the only way I could get it loose was with an impact.

"I drank what?" - Socrates

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If your brake line is long enough or get longer hoses, but check at full turn both ways. Don't feel bad it happened to me also I figured it out when the hose was too short.

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I emailed wilwood and told them about this. Hopefully I will get a reply soon. Last question took 3 days to get a reply. They must only have 1 guy answering email.

"I drank what?" - Socrates

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I went ahead and ordered a new hardware kit for the caliper brackets. I dont know if their lock nuts are 1 time use or not, but I ordered a new bolt kit anyway.

 

That sucks that I have to re-do it all, but hopefully wilwood will correct their instructions so others wont make the same mistake.

"I drank what?" - Socrates

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