Manifold hits distributor

Hey guys was wondering what I can do about this. I have a Blue Thunder intake manifold which is higher than the stock one, so the distributor is right up against it. I can’t re-stab the distributor in any other position because of the water hose and a/c unit being in the way. It’s a real pita when trying to set timing or especially when having to remove the cap. And the worst thing is that the cap is kinda loose because the latch won’t go all the way down.What can be done? Was thinking maybe I can grind some of the intake away, but I’d really rather not.

Engine is a 351 c and I have a stock Autolite distributor. Are there other distributors with the hold downs in a different spot maybe? Not really sure what to do. Thanks and any ideas sure would be appreciated!

Msd probillet dizzy is about same size diameter but it has screws that’s hold on cap instead of clips.

Msd probillet dizzy is about same size diameter but it has screws that’s hold on cap instead of clips.

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Thanks Kevin, I have been looking at a few different ones and I saw that. It seems like the billet distributors have a different location for the hold downs as well as screws instead of the clips. Was looking at the MSD and the Pertronix w/the PII module.

I have the same setup and all i do is slide the clip side ways onto the cap. I dont have problems with it being lose.

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Ya I have to do that too. But the clip won’t go all the way down to hold that side of the cap cause it’s up against the manifold so much. I did come up with a solution to that. I cut a real short piece of tie wire and wedged it in the cap sideways where the clip holds the cap down. Not right, but now it’s not loose. Still, it’s really tough getting the cap off.

Mine is close but more clockwise than what pictured. I may be running more initial adv. with limited mechanical adv. than what called for in the book. It put the vac. canister touching the rad hose.

John, looking at your pic, it seems that the V/A canister is far more to the water hose side than mine. Can you not reposition your distributor to gain more clearance? Setting the gear a tooth or two back (or forward whatever it needs) on the cam won't change your timing as long as you don't let the rotor lose position for number 1 cylinder, just alter the position of the cap.

Failing that, you might be able to carefully shave off some metal on the manifold and gain clearance that way.

Geoff.

You could clock the distributor by pulling it out and inserting it back at one more tooth clockwise. Hopefully the vac canister would allow for it to fit that way (as RED351 mentioned above).

I had to clock mine two teeth counterclockwise, so the vacuum canister on mine points about 45° right of centerline (as viewed from the front), but I don't have a.c.

Confirm the distributor is in the correct position to use the Ford specified location for the number one plug wire, mark the range that the hold down clamp touches the manifold, pull the distributor, cover the hole, use a drill and a drum sander on the intake, vacuum the dust, install distributor. Form should follow function. It is just an intake manifold, albeit a good one. Chuck

You could clock the distributor by pulling it out and inserting it back at one more tooth clockwise. Hopefully the vac canister would allow for it to fit that way (as RED351 mentioned above).

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If I do that it makes it worse.

I have tried to restab this distributor in every position I can but this spot is the best place. Guess I have to live with it or get a different distributor.

Tony-muscle I would really appreciate if you could post a picture of what your distributor looks like up against the blue Thunder intake, if you have one, thanks.

If I make the distributor restab more to the left it makes it worse. The hold down strap then hits the manifold even more. Can’t restab it the other way cause now the canister is hitting the water hose so much that this way is totally out of the question.

If I didn’t have the a/c I would not have this issue

Confirm the distributor is in the correct position to use the Ford specified location for the number one plug wire, mark the range that the hold down clamp touches the manifold, pull the distributor, cover the hole, use a drill and a drum sander on the intake, vacuum the dust, install distributor. Form should follow function. It is just an intake manifold, albeit a good one. Chuck

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Well I guess it’s either I try to sand it down some or I get a new (different) distributor. Just not sure what to do. But this was the first thing I thought about doing, cause it is definitely the cheapest way to go lol.

I’m thinking about getting this distributor. I don’t know if their all in one units are good. Anyone else have this? I’m having some ignition issues anyway and was going to upgrade.

https://www.holley.com/products/ignition/distributors/ford/parts/83503

I’m thinking about getting this distributor. I don’t know if their all in one units are good. Anyone else have this? I’m having some ignition issues anyway and was going to upgrade.

https://www.holley.com/products/ignition/distributors/ford/parts/83503

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I running an MSD dizzy with a blue thunder intake, except mine uses a ignition box. The ready to run are fine but you need a full 12 volts to work correctly. I like using a cd ignition box for multiple spark and a rev limiter, and also it can power from the original wire powering the coil. The worse thing with MSD stuff is anymore its china made. I like these cd boxes  https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tay-401001.

It may be how high the intake sit. Are you using a thick gasket instead of the turkey pan. Mine, the block is zero decked, so some needed to be removed from the BT for better port alignment. I always use the pan type gasket. The snap tad on the back side has never been a real problem. A screw driver snaps it on and off.

I’m thinking about getting this distributor. I don’t know if their all in one units are good. Anyone else have this? I’m having some ignition issues anyway and was going to upgrade.

https://www.holley.com/products/ignition/distributors/ford/parts/83503

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I running an MSD dizzy with a blue thunder intake, except mine uses a ignition box. The ready to run are fine but you need a full 12 volts to work correctly. I like using a cd ignition box for multiple spark and a rev limiter, and also it can power from the original wire powering the coil. The worse thing with MSD stuff is anymore its china made. I like these cd boxes  https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tay-401001.

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Damn, I didn’t think MSD was Chinese. I know a lot of guys use them but I think I may look at something else. I will keep the ignition box in mind, thanks. Good to know that something is made here.