Intermittent radio, 3 gauge cluster and fuel gauge on and off

Hopefully Midlife Harness is reading today’s post

All dash install is complete and for some reason the Custom auto sound radio, 3 gauge cluster and fuel gauge don’t come on when I start the car, consistently.

Could it be a faulty hot connection to the radio harness? I did have to make a repair and once that was done, everything checked out before I finished assembling the dash.

So any and all advice is appreciated!  

Your 3 gauge cluster should not have anything to do with an aftermarket wiring system, as there is no "hot" wire going to the 3 gauge cluster. Power for 2 of the gauges comes from the dash cluster's CVR and the ammeter has two dedicated lines routed from the engine compartment.

The only thing in common is the ground, but other items needing a ground would also be bad. I'd check your connections and do not use wire nuts!

Your 3 gauge cluster should not have anything to do with an aftermarket wiring system, as there is no "hot" wire going to the 3 gauge cluster.  Power for 2 of the gauges comes from the dash cluster's CVR and the ammeter has two dedicated lines routed from the engine compartment.

The only thing in common is the ground, but other items needing a ground would also be bad.  I'd check your connections and do not use wire nuts!

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I will and thanks!!!

While you have access to your center console, you may consider replacing the ammeter with the rocketman voltmeter conversion. I installed one and its nice to see that my voltage regulator is working as opposed to ruining the battery.

While you have access to your center console, you may consider replacing the ammeter with the rocketman voltmeter conversion. I installed one and its nice to see that my voltage regulator is working as opposed to ruining the battery.

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Thanks!! I will definitely look at that hi

+1 on Bob's aka "Rocketman" Voltmeter conversion, works like a charm! I just recently installed a Headlight Relay Kit from him and Voila no more flickering headlights and they are brighter now as well!

+1 on Bob's aka "Rocketman" Voltmeter conversion, works like a charm! I just recently installed a Headlight Relay Kit from him and Voila no more flickering headlights and they are brighter now as well!

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Good deal! That’s sounds like a plan!!

Just a follow-up note

I had these items done prior to rebuilding the dash

3-gauge was bench tested and calibrated and calibrated to the temp sending unit

Quartz clock conversion as I have no tach

Speedo rebuild and fuel gauge was refinished and rebuilt because it was rusted...

So I think everything works fine but as you all suggested maybe a new ammeter might be a good idea!

Thanks!

Lastly: my ignition key was very slow returning so I sprayed electrical contact cleaner in the spot I have circled and it works perfectly now.