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71 mustang 351c adding clutch fan


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New to the site. I’m sure it’s been talked about before but I’m wanting to put a clutch fan on my 1971 mustang. 351c. Ac car. What fan and clutch is everyone using? Thanks

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Here's the parts needed for a clutched fan conversion.   The clutch you need is the Hayden 2710. The fan blade is Derale 18" 17118. You'll also need a stud kit, as using bolts in this application

Thanks to Hemikiller and all others for the great information on the fan, fan clutch and thermostats. I was having overheating issues with my 1971 Mach 1 with 351C-4V and A/C. After reading the i

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I have switched several of my rides over to this fan, they work great and look like they belong there. There is a link to the clutch to use with this fan below in the description. Also welcome aboard.

https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/c909fan.html?attribs=79

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Hi and welcome from Michigan. I did this last year. The originals are dangerous and they can break. If you go to the search tab and type in clutch fan, you will find a lot of different threads about it. But the best one is check your fan blades. There are a few different links from Hemikiller for the deralie fan blades and the Hayden fan clutch.

John - 72 Q Code

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Hello and welcome from SW Ontario.

On the 71, it would have had a 4 blade fan. I'm not totally sure when Ford switched to 5 blade flex fans, but I think these are what jpaz is referring to. These are definitely dangerous and need to be chucked in the nearest scrap bin. I worked at the factory where they were made and have seen the damage they do WHEN they blow up on test rigs.

Definitely research for the absolute best clutch fan set up out there if you want to go that route and are not concerned about originality.

Geoff.

 

Ooops, you said A/C, missed that, so your car may have had a different fan.

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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Here's the parts needed for a clutched fan conversion.

 

The clutch you need is the Hayden 2710. The fan blade is Derale 18" 17118. You'll also need a stud kit, as using bolts in this application is a serious lesson in frustration.

 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1793512&jsn=2293

 

https://www.amazon.com/Derale-17118-Clutch-Standard-Rotation/dp/B004XONYK2

 

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-Help-23733-Water-Pump/dp/B000CO779G

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Here's the parts needed for a clutched fan conversion.

 

The clutch you need is the Hayden 2710. The fan blade is Derale 18" 17118. You'll also need a stud kit, as using bolts in this application is a serious lesson in frustration.

 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1793512&jsn=2293

 

https://www.amazon.com/Derale-17118-Clutch-Standard-Rotation/dp/B004XONYK2

 

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-Help-23733-Water-Pump/dp/B000CO779G

Are these the same parts for other engines as well? I am thinking 429/460 in our cars.

Wisdom, knowledge and intelligence are three very different things.

1971 convertible, H-code, Ram Air

1971 Mach I, M-code, Ram Air

1988 Bronco II

2014 F150 Supercrew

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Here's the parts needed for a clutched fan conversion.

 

The clutch you need is the Hayden 2710. The fan blade is Derale 18" 17118. You'll also need a stud kit, as using bolts in this application is a serious lesson in frustration.

 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1793512&jsn=2293

 

https://www.amazon.com/Derale-17118-Clutch-Standard-Rotation/dp/B004XONYK2

 

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-Help-23733-Water-Pump/dp/B000CO779G

Are these the same parts for other engines as well? I am thinking 429/460 in our cars.

 

429 cars used a 19" fan. Clutch and studs should be the same, unless there is a clearance issue and you'd need to peruse the Hayden catalog for a shorter clutch. 19" fan assuming you're using a factory 429 shroud, otherwise use the 18" I linked to.  

 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-17119?cm_mmc=ppc-google-_-search-_-brands-_-keyword&gclid=Cj0KCQiA2b7uBRDsARIsAEE9XpGtNfSM27WKNtTa-X1NYXbUcTscqixrl_M2BZvi-fzlT_tKrCaqHNsaApupEALw_wcB

 

 

 

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I had to use the Hayden 2947 on my 460 due to clearance issues at the radiator. It is so low profile that it is very difficult getting the nuts on the studs but with patience it can be done.

73 conv. 460, D0VE large valve heads, Performer RPM manifold, Voodoo 227/233 cam, Holley 950 HP carb, C6 trans, 3.25 trak-loc.

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Wow - I guess I got lucky or something.  I'm using a monster 7-blade unit my buddy Jim gave me - I have no idea what it came from, except maybe his 1963 1/2 Galaxie 500 with a 390FE.  Bolted right up - no issues.  I think there is barely 1/4" clearance on the factory fan shroud - could be a big reason why mine stays so cool. I know when I didn't have the windshield or hood gasket installed, and I was moving the car in and out of the garage, the air moving from under the hood would blow my hair back sitting in the driver seat.

 

attachment.php?aid=49667

newfan1.jpg

Eric

mach1sig2.gif

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Here's the parts needed for a clutched fan conversion.

 

The clutch you need is the Hayden 2710. The fan blade is Derale 18" 17118. You'll also need a stud kit, as using bolts in this application is a serious lesson in frustration.

 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1793512&jsn=2293

 

https://www.amazon.com/Derale-17118-Clutch-Standard-Rotation/dp/B004XONYK2

 

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-Help-23733-Water-Pump/dp/B000CO779G

Thanks!! Parts are on the way!! Appreciate the info and fast response

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  • 2 months later...

If you haven’t ordered anything yet, I have a set for you to consider. I ran an 83 F350 fan clutch on a 9 bladed 2000 Ford Ranger 3.0 fan. I have since moved on to dual electric SPAL with a variable speed controller. I ran this combo on the 2018 Hot Rod Power Tour.

Not sure how to get it to Madison VA but if you have someone coming through Fairmont WV, I’d be willing to meet.

 

Aaron

 

 

83710-E1-E-F607-4-E44-85-B6-09-B9-DCBC2-C01.jpg

 

FC4-A43-A1-2530-48-C8-8635-A0-DC4-A45-AF9-F.jpg

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Is there an optimum clearance between fan an shroud? Also, should the fan be all the way into the shroud or partly? I am wondering if someone knows these variables to optimize cooling.

 

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20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Typical wisdom is half a fan blade exposed out of the shroud and 1" clearance to the shroud itself.

 

71-73s used three diameter fans, 17 1/2", 18 1/2" and 19".

 

19" was 429 only

 

Aftermarket doesn't sell the fan in 1/2" sizes, so use the one that best fits your shroud.

 

 

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Typical wisdom is half a fan blade exposed out of the shroud and 1" clearance to the shroud itself.

 

Interesting about half blade exposed. Mine has almost the whole blade into the shroud. I wonder if i should go with a smaller spacer betweeen pulley and clutch.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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The values we specify to our customers buying our industrial engines but designing their own cooling systems using a puller fan are 1/2 to 2/3 (2/3 is the target) of the blade width inside the shroud and radial clearance set to the minimum required to prevent interference. We ask for 10-20mm depending on whether the engine is mounted solidly or on isolators.

 

Just an FYI for what we do for cooling system design.

 

-Matt

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The values we specify to our customers buying our industrial engines but designing their own cooling systems using a puller fan are 1/2 to 2/3 (2/3 is the target) of the blade width inside the shroud and radial clearance set to the minimum required to prevent interference. We ask for 10-20mm depending on whether the engine is mounted solidly or on isolators.

 

Just an FYI for what we do for cooling system design.

 

-Matt

Great information. That said i would have to find a way to move the fan closer to the engine. Unfortunately I just bought a new clutch when i did my engine. That included adding a new radiator which was thicker thus moving the shroud backwards.

Any ideas which clutch fan would work?

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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The values we specify to our customers buying our industrial engines but designing their own cooling systems using a puller fan are 1/2 to 2/3 (2/3 is the target) of the blade width inside the shroud and radial clearance set to the minimum required to prevent interference. We ask for 10-20mm depending on whether the engine is mounted solidly or on isolators.

 

Just an FYI for what we do for cooling system design.

 

-Matt

Great information. That said i would have to find a way to move the fan closer to the engine. Unfortunately I just bought a new clutch when i did my engine. That included adding a new radiator which was thicker thus moving the shroud backwards.

Any ideas which clutch fan would work?

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

 

 

Generally, there is no spacer between the water pump pulley and the flange on the clutch. If you have one, consider removing it and see where that puts your fan. Hayden does make a shorter clutch that is a direct swap for the 2710, the 2711. It's 3/8" shorter. There are others that look like they'll work, but you'd have to do some measuring to see if they'll work.

HAYDENFANS.thumb.JPG.2cd2db0289c115938c38f3e3d41d5566.JPG

 

 

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Thanks. I miswrote. The spacer i was talking about is part of the clutch so all i need is a clutch with a shorter "shaft". I will lookup those numbers.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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I was looking at my fan clutch and I do have some sort of spacer. I have forgotten about it.

Please look at the picture and tell me if this is normal. If I reduce this spacer or eliminated I should be able to pull the blades back enough. However, they may be too close to the pulleys and belts.

20200209-110609.jpg

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Nope. that's not normal at all. Clutch bolts directly to the face of the water pump pulley.

 

Thanks. I guess that explains why my fan is so forward. In a "normal" installation, how close are the fan blades too the pulleys? Once I remove the spacer they will be very close in my case.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Nope. that's not normal at all. Clutch bolts directly to the face of the water pump pulley.

 

Thanks. I guess that explains why my fan is so forward. In a "normal" installation, how close are the fan blades too the pulleys? Once I remove the spacer they will be very close in my case.

Well, normal blade depth past shroud opening on a FLEX fan is 1/4  width of blade, looking down from above, this allows for flex action to nearly close the gap, proving maximum cooling. Now a clutch fan has no flex, my stock ranger flex fan centered 1/2 enshroud opening.

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  • 3 months later...

I had a flex fan and it would pull a lot of air all the time, it would roar. i bought a hayden 2747 fan clutch and a derale 17117 fan. I loved the quiet at idle and part throttle, but by 3000rpm it started to roar and at 3700 the belt would squeel. I could have tightened the belt but I wanted to use less horsepower not more. I ended up grabbing a 1989 ranger 2.3l clutch fan and trying that. the fan is about 4 inches from the radiator and has no shroud yet but it keeps the engine cool even when idling for 40 minutes. car has a manual transmission and is running 800 rpm idle, 28 degrees timing advance and the idle is adjusted pretty lean. no air conditioning yet.

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