Pertronix Ignition problems

So..the other day I thought I’d just do this simple install and no more points to adjust. Wrong. Now I have no spark. I called Pertronix and they said I also needed their coil. So I ordered that and Just installed it and still I have  no spark. I’m getting 12.4 V to the + side of the coil with key on. It drops to 9.5 when cranking. The pertronix trouble shooting guide said to remove the red lead from the coil and run it direct to batt. POS and see if I get spark. Still No spark. The install was really straight forward and I even went back and found an online video to watch. What am I doing wrong here?

I use P1 for 30 years, but is likely the same. if the unit gets a plus, anything >8 volt during cranking and 12v after that.

If is grounded properly, it should fire.

I've installed another one last year on my 429 (not fired yet tho) and a spacer was provided. All easy except for some dist like my autolite, you have to take care which screw you use to fix it as the plate beneath can rotate on another axis. It has to remain perfectly perpendicular to the magnets at the right distance (provided spacer thickness). if not. no spark. Also, if of any help, at least on the Autolite, there is a small ground wire that must be connected to the plate.

Any functional coil would do with a Pertronix.

What model pertronix?  You do not have solid core wires correct?  If you ran the hot straight to the battery and still did not get any spark either you have a bad ground, broken ground wire  or a bad distributor.  I don't think you really needed their coil but since you have gotten it and it still does not start that pretty much rules out the coil as being the problem.    

Here is the way to test the ground and hot on their distributors.

http://support.pertronix.com/file.php?key=k3kx1ekeccJxRQ-Hwucdwm7Rh2XmGTgA&expires=1574640000&signature=98cf844ae2a0cc5c5d90ece3de89897967d1038a

Thanks. I am using the Ignitor 2 and matching coil. The car ran great before I put these in. I just didn’t want the maintenance of the points. The plug wires are not solid core. Just standard suppression wires. The ground wire for the distributor went right back in where it came off when I took out the condenser. I will test the ground wires and dist. Ground. Thanks.

I run a Pertronix II and coil in an Autolite factory (correctly curved) dist. 8mm copper wound wire and Autolite 25 plugs set at .045". Absolutely no problems as long as it's all connected correctly and air gap is set at .030" (plastic gauge). The motor is a '71 351C 4V.

Recently, I was having some other weird problems that turned out to be a cracked cap. During my trials, I installed a brand new, never been out the box P II module only to find no sparks. Reinstalled the old unit and fired right up. Reinstalled the new one and same thing, no sparks. My conclusion was a bad unit from the factory. Problem was it had sat on a shelf for 3 years, so out of warranty! Pertronix could only offer me a replacement at cost. I did not take them up on it at this time.

So, my point is you could have a faulty unit that likely should be returned, but first make sure your installation is totally correct.

Hope that helps,

Geoff.

My old Pertronix 1 installed in early 90's just recently crapped out on me. So I went with a Pertronix 2 and their coil and my 302 engine fires right up and runs great. 

+1 on you don't really need their coil, any coil will do! But chances are you got a bad one out of the box.

Also make sure the coil case is grounded, that is what provides the negative side of the spark.

See if the voltage fluctuates on the negative coil terminal while cranking. If the Pertronix is working it will switch from ground to open as the distributor cam/magnet sleeve turns past the sensor on the P2. If it doesn't fluctuate the P2 is not toggling the coil ground on and off, like points normally do.

I tried the Flamethrower III the matching PIII as recommended so I could run the factory tach and have a built in rev limiter. After a year of never getting the timing close enough to even let the car run I switched back to points and it runs perfect.

I believe I will never buy another Pertronix.

Kcmash

As mentioned, the pertronix module in the distributor could be bad. Wouldnt be the first time something was bad out of the box.

Maybe put the points back in to rule out pink wire and coil connections although it sounds like you are getting voltage at the coil. If you ground the - side of the coil and turn ignition on, you should get 6-7v at the + side of coil.

Dumb question, but did you remember to install the little black magnet sleeve over the distributor shaft lobes? I forgot one once.

I tried the Flamethrower III the matching PIII as recommended so I could run the factory tach and have a built in rev limiter. After a year of never getting the timing close enough to even let the car run I switched back to points and it runs perfect.

I believe I will never buy another Pertronix.

Kcmash

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 From personal experience, the PIII mechanically is a piece of crap. Electronically it may be very good. I've griped about this many times, but the fact is for the Ford application in a stock distributor, there is (or was) a plastic bushing between the two plates. It wares out quickly and allows the plate to move sideways as well as vertically. I saw this happening to mine on a distributor machine. The result is erratic firing, so timing will be all over the place.

When I returned the P III to Pertronix, they replaced it with a P II and coil, since then no problem with that module and timing is right on.

Thanks everyone for the help. I haven’t been a member here very long but I’ve already received a ton of help, you’re AWSOME! So since it passed The ohm’s tests, but does not put out spark, I guess I got a bad on out of the box.

Before I go out and get another one..Will my factory tach. Work with the Pertronix set?

I use a Pertronix II with their flamethrower coil and the factory tach works just fine. Just dont distrupt the tach, pink wire circuit to the + side of the coil.

Thanks everyone for the help. I haven’t been a member here very long but I’ve already received a ton of help, you’re AWSOME! So since it passed The ohm’s tests, but does not put out spark, I guess I got a bad on out of the box.

Before I go out and get another one..Will my factory tach. Work with the Pertronix set?

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 Buy and use the Pertronix relay, or any relay that will give a full 12V directly to the coil. I'm no electrical guy, so please check. I'm sure Midlife or another expert will confirm.

Geoff.

Thanks everyone for the help. I haven’t been a member here very long but I’ve already received a ton of help, you’re AWSOME! So since it passed The ohm’s tests, but does not put out spark, I guess I got a bad on out of the box.

Before I go out and get another one..Will my factory tach. Work with the Pertronix set?

Click to expand...

 Buy and use the Pertronix relay, or any relay that will give a full 12V directly to the coil. I'm no electrical guy, so please check. I'm sure Midlife or another expert will confirm.

Geoff.

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Use of the relay by the standard coil wire for the trigger signal will cause a tach not to read.  If you don't have a tach, this trigger wire for the relay will work just fine.

Turns out it was a bad Ignitor II right out of the box. BUT, the folks at Pertronix were great to deal with and are sending me a replacement.

Thanks again everyone.

Turns out it was a bad Ignitor II right out of the box. BUT, the folks at Pertronix were great to deal with and are sending me a replacement.

Thanks again everyone.

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 That is great to hear Pertronix is replacing it. 

You still need to find a way to deliver a full 12V to it with your factory tach. Midlife replied, but to be honest, I'm not too sure what he means. Perhaps he can clarify for you.

OK...how does one provide a RUN-only trigger for a relay for a 12V power supply for the Pertronix? The easiest way is to use the wire going to the + side of the coil routed to the trigger input to the relay, with the relay output going now to the + side of the coil. This works great, but if you have a tach, there will be no signal from the coil through the tach any more. If you don't have a tach, then there is no problem. If you do have a tach, you'll have to find another source for the 12V relay trigger input. Most 7123's (but not all) have a RUN-only line going to the carb anti-stall device, choke, or other system that is part of a 4 pin engine gauge feed harness. The other source is a green/red wire that connects to the OEM alternator/voltage regulator system. If you have a one wire alternator, that wire may still be in your headlight harness.

As far as I know, there is no ACC signal (accessory) anywhere in the engine compartment.

Your other option is to get Rocketman (RCCI) to convert your tachometer to a 3-wire tachometer, so the ignition switch to coil circuit doesn't run through the tachometer. A link to him is at the bottom of this page.