Water pump gasket sealant

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Location
Coachella Valley (Palm Springs)
My Car
1973 Convertible, 351 4v CJ, C6, Mach 1 Decor options, power: steering, brakes and windows, a/c, Rally Pac gauges, Deluxe interior.
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I’m replacing the water pump and gasket, and I’ve seen a hundred references to “use a sealant”. 

What kind? Any preferences? Or should I just go ask for “sealant to use on water pump gaskets”?

Sometimes the simplest questions can be so befuddling.

 
I like this stuff, keeps the gaskets in place while trying to get the water pump lined up. Easy to get a thin coat on with the spray. The brush on kind works well, but hard to get even and kind of strings around between the can and gasket.

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80065-Gasket-Sealant-Aerosol/dp/B000HBICK2/ref=asc_df_B000HBICK2/?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=&hvpos=&hvnetw=o&hvrand=&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584001418771242&psc=1

 
Permatex makes a water pump/tstat specific gasket maker but anything that is labeled resistant to antifreeze at your local parts store should do.

 
One thing you might want to do is go to hardware store and get you two bolts that are way longer than the ones in the pump. Cut the heads off and you can use them to help keep the gasket in place and also slide the pump on over them and get the other bolts started then remove the studs and put correct bolts in. I do this when putting a transmission in also. Cut off two bolts in bottom two holes and you can slide the transmission right in. 

Also be sure to put sealer on the threads of bolts that go into the water jacket. Pump usually has some instructions in the box.

Also take it easy getting old bolts out can be rusty and snap off. Soak them couple days with penetrating oil for sure. If you can get a hammer in there and hit the bolt on the head that helps break the rust loose also. One of the members is in a jam now because of a broken water pump bolt or bolts that he then broke a tap off in the hole. Can cause you to have to pull engine out to get the broken bolts out.

You should run a tap in the threads of all the holes to clean them out and when you go back put anti seize on the threads. Use a pipe cleaner or small dia. screw driver and put the anti seize in the tapped hole, just a little and put the sealer on the bolt threads. Bolts not in water jacket do not need sealer but use anti seize on all. 

When using a tap only use a tap handle and never try to use a wrench to turn the tap you will break it. Go slow and do not force it. Turn tap in one turn and back up a little then a turn and back up to keep it clear. 

Here is a pic of the anti seize can get at any parts house. 

If you get a tap get a two flute plug not a 4 flute. All you are doing is cleaning the threads not cutting so should screw in easily. Blow the holes out with compressed air. 



 
"One of the members is in a jam now because of a broken water pump bolt or bolts..."
Yeah, that was me.  Likely not the first (or last) lol.  This was in essence my update:  got past the broken bolts and time to install the new stuff   ::thumb::

I was glad to find this exact product at PepBoys, but wow... discovered a whole new world of sealants and gaskets and bolt lockers.  But your tip about one long bolt without the head to use as a placeholder/guide is brilliant - thanks.

 
Ta-da. New water pump is in. Next: alternator or power steering pump. Then radiator. Plus a 100 little things along the way in addition to the "while you're at it..." category (i.e., new battery tray)



 
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