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Various Engine/Underhood Details


icejawa
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Hey everyone,

 

I've been converting my restored 1971 mach to correct parts instead of the aftermarket. Future concourse shows would require the car to be correct as possible, so just wanted to ask if anyone has pictures of a concours engine compartment for 351-4v M code without ram air

 

thanks

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Hey everyone,

 

I've been converting my restored 1971 mach to correct parts instead of the aftermarket. Future concourse shows would require the car to be correct as possible, so just wanted to ask if anyone has pictures of a concours engine compartment for 351-4v M code without ram air

 

thanks

Hi, I don't go for absolute concours, waste of money imo, but I do try to achieve an acceptable level of originality. Here are a few pics of my 71 M code engine. Some details have been dropped, like the dual vacuum canister on the distributor and the vacuum port switch. I used that location for a mechanical temp gauge sensor. I have also reshaped the fuel line. Let me know if you want close up details.

Hope it give you some ideas at least.

Geoff.

 

IMG-1071.jpg

This shows a modified PCV hose, routed around the back of the Holley 670 carb, done for better access to the front PCV port.

 

IMG-0656-2.jpg

 

IMG-0657-3.jpg

 

In this shot, the PCV hose is to the front where it would be with a 4300 carb. The white ID tag on the V/C is for the 4 speed only.

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Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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Sweet thanks , any idea of battery compartment colors?

 My engine bay is all done with Eastwood 2K ceramic semi-gloss black. It has some texture for sure, but is proving to be very durable. A good semi-gloss or low gloss black would be fine I think.

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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Some may feel trying to achieve a concourse restoration is a waste... To each their own is my motto. I say, more power to you. The toughest restoration of these car’s today, is trying to bring them back to what may have originally left the factory back in the day. I respect this effort (level of restoration) put forth by those who choose this course of action. Keep at it!

"Yes dear", has kept me in the hobby a long time...

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99.9% of the people will never know if you have it right or wrong just one of those things that OCD people worry about, lol.

 Good write-up David, especially the last line.

 Not intending sarcasm, it is to each owners preference and how deep their pockets are, as to the level of originality they can, or want to go to.

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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These are picture of the 71 headlight buckets and other parts on my car. These parts on this car were still as original, meaning the slop grey parts could still be seen as different from the black. Are they 100% correct, maybe, maybe not.

 

IMG-2839-2.jpg

This is how it looked in 2012. Nothing in the engine bay had been touched prior to this. The slop grey on H/B's can still be seen.

 

 

IMG-2877.jpg

Here, it is somewhat close to "concours" with some exceptions, pcv hose, coil, carb.

 

IMG-0630-4.jpg

Shock tower braces in slop grey (NPD) T F B are randomly placed inspection stickers. ( a friend said they stood for "If you don't like it, Too F'n Bad!)

 

IMG-1263.jpg

 

IMG-1267.jpg

The 71 has two latch support brackets, both slop grey.

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Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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  • 3 months later...

I am not up to speed on 71 maybe one of the guys with parts books can look it up for you. I think there were two sizes in 71 to fit the HD battery option. Some 71 also got and extra heat shield cover for the side of the batter toward the engine. 

If you get you a set of the Osborne assembly line instructions they show all the details of the car I think the Chassis manual shows the engine compartment.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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No idea but I found this "NOS" part on ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-NEW-1971-73-MUSTANG-1970-71-FAIRLANE-TORINO-BATTERY-TRAY-DOOZ-10732-B/362946758418?epid=4024414935&hash=item5481500712:g:B0cAAOSw-uhdz3KQ

Mine looks exactly like that and is extremely rusted, I do have it soaking in rust remover and its gotten 80% off so far. I will probably just reuse it because all the reproductions I am finding are probably for the 429 CJ

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icejawa.

The HD battery (27-F) was standard on the Boss 351 and 429 cars and was also available as a standalone option. There were two battery trays sourced from the 70-71 Torino that was utilized on the 71-73 Mustang. DOOZ-10732-A for the standard battery (24F) and DOOZ-10732-B for the HD battery (27F).

Ford discontinued the "DOOZ-A" tray for the 24 series battery and replaced it with the "DOOZ-B" tray in 1979. The repo people are evidently taking the one size fits all approach and only offering the larger B tray. With two years fitment for the 70-71 Torino, Mercury Montego/Cyclone and three with the Mustang/Cougar, I'm surprised they didn't go ahead and offer a repo version of both trays. But... they also don't fit 65-70 Mustangs!!

I have a NOS "A" tray but don't have it with me at this time to measure. I can provide battery dimensions from my Motorcraft battery catalog and you can figure the tray will be slightly larger.

The dimensions for the 24 series battery (W) 6 13/16"    (L) 10 3/4"    (H) 8 61/64"   

The dimensions for the 27 series battery (W) 6 13/16"    (L) 12 1/2"    (H) 9 9/64"

I have seen battery heat shields on the  C, J, and R Mustangs which did have the 27 series battery standard. Some sources tell me they have seen them on AC equipped cars but were not on my factory AC 71's. Another throwaway item from days gone by! 

 

As far as anyone attempting a Concours restoration, or anyone that has completed one and has it checked off on their Bucket list, a tip of my hat to you. A tough and expensive undertaking for ANY type of vehicle. Lots of 71-73 OE parts were discarded over the past 47+ years and the general lack of interest from both repo manufactures and the 65-70 club members made any 71-73 concourse restoration definitely a labor of Love. Date coded, period-correct and Nos parts have entered the "Perkins" price range on most parts I used to watch my friends throw away!

I have been involved "Parts Chasing" on a few very difficult Concourse level restoration projects and the only thing that kept me from losing what mind I have left is that it wasn't my money being spent!   :D

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Steve

 

No Officer...I really don't know how fast I was going, my speedometer stopped at 140!

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Well the great news is mine appears to be the original battery tray, I have had it soaking in rust remover for almost 2 days and its looking great. I will just have to sand the patchy pitting where the rust was removed and then paint it.

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Now that I am done with the battery tray I need to ask which slop gray is the better option? I see two options one of a "medium" gray and a "darker" gray on NPD.

I was thinking the darker gray because I've mostly heard the gray is just slightly distinguished from the semi-gloss painting of the rest of the engine bay. Thanks in advance.

 

https://www.npdlink.com/product/paint-under-hood-dark-slop-gray-correct-dark/204598?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dslop%252Bgray%26top_parent%3D0%26year%3D

 

https://www.npdlink.com/product/paint-under-hood-medium-slop-gray-correct-medium/107680?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dslop%252Bgray%26top_parent%3D0%26year%3D

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One thought on the battery tray. I think Daniel Carpenter got the original tooling for the tray so it will be just like the original. I will ask him this year if he has the ability to go for HD and std.

So if you order one of his repo it will be off original Ford tooling.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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They did not have any thing exactly from plant to plant as far as the slop grey goes. But the black semi gloss was just that, black semi gloss. The slop grey from what I have seen could be black or a grayish color, nothing really specific there. It was a mix of whatever they had.

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John - 72 Q Code

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An all original looking car means almost everything has surface rust on every part under the hood and suspension etc. I HATE Rust!! As long as everything looks good under the hood it's all good! Since almost 50 years have gone by probably no one knows 100% what is "Original" looking in my opinion! I like good quality chrome under the hood, the more the better LOL...just not the cheap aftermarket Chinese Junk Chrome Parts!

71-73 Mustangs never die, they just go faster!

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Now that I am done with the battery tray I need to ask which slop gray is the better option? I see two options one of a "medium" gray and a "darker" gray on NPD.

I was thinking the darker gray because I've mostly heard the gray is just slightly distinguished from the semi-gloss painting of the rest of the engine bay. Thanks in advance.

 

https://www.npdlink.com/product/paint-under-hood-dark-slop-gray-correct-dark/204598?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dslop%252Bgray%26top_parent%3D0%26year%3D

 

https://www.npdlink.com/product/paint-under-hood-medium-slop-gray-correct-medium/107680?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dslop%252Bgray%26top_parent%3D0%26year%3D

I know it was last year when I enquired about the darker slop grey at NPD and was told it was out of stock and likely not being re-stocked, so it may no longer be available.... or not looking at the link.

When I did mine, I actually tried to darken a can of NPD slop grey. I carefully pierced the can, drained the paint into a gun container then added semi-gloss black, but all I really did was just make more paint, hardly any different. Next time I needed to touch up, I just used the slop grey. 

As jpaz said, there was really no actual color as it was typically left over paint mixed together. No matter what paints you mix, you'll end up with some sort of grey color, hence the name 'slop grey".

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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I have probably mentioned in the past. Back when I was painting cars on a regular basis I used DuPont. My local supplier like anyone screwed up on a mix at times, just like Lowe's. He kept them all and would mix them all together and it could be red, bright blue, white, yellow and when you mixed it all up it always turns gray. That is the average between black and white. He would sell to the farmers to paint equipment with was close to the Ford Gray color they used on the 8-N tractors. 

I feel the reason Ford went to gray for primer is that it is the average of all colors so easier to cover with less paint. 

If you go get a photo 40% gray card at a photo shop that is the average between white and black. I have not seen that much of a difference in the colors in original cars.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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If you are looking for concours ready results, join MCA. For your $50 membership, you get access to their concours judging guide and rules, which has guidance on finishes. I would also recommend AMK Products. They have concours correct bolts for everything.

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Mike

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