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Various Engine/Underhood Details


icejawa
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I read the thread you linked and it looks like the place to buy the solution (Palmetto) has no website or anything anymore. What else can I use as I am sure I can obtain the solution on ebay or amazon?

I guess you could ask Carolina Mountain Mustangs aka David. Pretty sure he has a thread on here somewhere about it. Another one to ask would be Fabrice, he’s gotta have info about it too. Or try looking in the search tab, that’s were I found the link I gave you.

I don’t know how to do it, so I just used Cast Blast paint. Was good enough for me, not doing any concourse shows or anything like that. Hope you can figure it out!

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John - 72 Q Code

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  • 2 weeks later...

The palmetto guy sells the stuff on ebay i found so that's where i purchased it. Anyone able to recommend a way to restore the radiator fan shroud? I tried mothers back to black but that didn't work to restore the faded color.

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The fan shroud did not have a finish applied it was as molded. I wash mine with lacquer thinner and blast with walnut shells. You can spray with satin clear to get an even finish. I do this for the under fender splash guards also. Only pic I have is out of focus. The splash guards I cleaned with lacquer thinner and did not blast as they were pretty good. Going to forum member in Europe soon.

I had not seen your post looking for the Iron Phosphate. Did you find some? You use distilled water to mix with it. A couple parts I did not mention that are also Iron Phosphate are the belt adjuster for the AC and also the bracket that holds the adjuster. 

When you do the hood springs I take a piece of 1/2" conduit and stretch the spring slightly to get the coils separated so the solution gets between the coils. You will get a set of instructions with the phosphate. Heating the solution makes it work faster. I do outside use a thermometer like you check your deep fryer with. I got a couple different size stainless containers from Goodwill to do mine in. I mentioned previously that you raise the level in your container by putting in jars filled with water. You need the parts to be completely submerged so you do not get lines on the parts. Have lots of WD-40 to spray on the parts after they are washed. I have considered trying melting wax to coat them and see how that looks. 

DSC-1263.jpg

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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The fan shroud did not have a finish applied it was as molded. I wash mine with lacquer thinner and blast with walnut shells. You can spray with satin clear to get an even finish. I do this for the under fender splash guards also. Only pic I have is out of focus. The splash guards I cleaned with lacquer thinner and did not blast as they were pretty good. Going to forum member in Europe soon.

I had not seen your post looking for the Iron Phosphate. Did you find some? You use distilled water to mix with it. A couple parts I did not mention that are also Iron Phosphate are the belt adjuster for the AC and also the bracket that holds the adjuster. 

When you do the hood springs I take a piece of 1/2" conduit and stretch the spring slightly to get the coils separated so the solution gets between the coils. You will get a set of instructions with the phosphate. Heating the solution makes it work faster. I do outside use a thermometer like you check your deep fryer with. I got a couple different size stainless containers from Goodwill to do mine in. I mentioned previously that you raise the level in your container by putting in jars filled with water. You need the parts to be completely submerged so you do not get lines on the parts. Have lots of WD-40 to spray on the parts after they are washed. I have considered trying melting wax to coat them and see how that looks. 

 

 

great tips thanks

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Now I have a leak in the radiator from a spot that looks like the fins were crushed during an engine swap. Is it possible to repair this? Maybe an expert is around the Cleveland area. I'll have to get a picture later since the whole thing is still installed.

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Now I have a leak in the radiator from a spot that looks like the fins were crushed during an engine swap. Is it possible to repair this? Maybe an expert is around the Cleveland area. I'll have to get a picture later since the whole thing is still installed.

A radiator shop can solder it if you remove and take to them. Is the inside clean? Do you have deposits on the ends of the tubes when you look in?

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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Now I have a leak in the radiator from a spot that looks like the fins were crushed during an engine swap. Is it possible to repair this? Maybe an expert is around the Cleveland area. I'll have to get a picture later since the whole thing is still installed.

A radiator shop can solder it if you remove and take to them. Is the inside clean? Do you have deposits on the ends of the tubes when you look in?

 

It looks clean though I'm no expert, no white deposits or anything. The tubes had a light dusting of dirt which I wiped out. I had the whole thing out and flushed it a bunch.

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Now I have a leak in the radiator from a spot that looks like the fins were crushed during an engine swap. Is it possible to repair this? Maybe an expert is around the Cleveland area. I'll have to get a picture later since the whole thing is still installed.

A radiator shop can solder it if you remove and take to them. Is the inside clean? Do you have deposits on the ends of the tubes when you look in?

 

It looks clean though I'm no expert, no white deposits or anything. The tubes had a light dusting of dirt which I wiped out. I had the whole thing out and flushed it a bunch.

 If it's got a hole in it, why not bite the bullet and get it rebuilt to at least a 3 core. Your motor will thank you!!

 

By the way, the rad should always be removed when removing/replacing a motor.

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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A radiator shop can solder it if you remove and take to them. Is the inside clean? Do you have deposits on the ends of the tubes when you look in?

 

It looks clean though I'm no expert, no white deposits or anything. The tubes had a light dusting of dirt which I wiped out. I had the whole thing out and flushed it a bunch.

 If it's got a hole in it, why not bite the bullet and get it rebuilt to at least a 3 core. Your motor will thank you!!

 

By the way, the rad should always be removed when removing/replacing a motor.

 

Exactly and the previous owner had a shop do it, they did a terrible job as well as a bad paint job on the engine that's in there

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It looks clean though I'm no expert, no white deposits or anything. The tubes had a light dusting of dirt which I wiped out. I had the whole thing out and flushed it a bunch.

 If it's got a hole in it, why not bite the bullet and get it rebuilt to at least a 3 core. Your motor will thank you!!

 

By the way, the rad should always be removed when removing/replacing a motor.

 

Exactly and the previous owner had a shop do it, they did a terrible job as well as a bad paint job on the engine that's in there

 So now with the "new" engine (not in yet), you'll have the opportunity to do the engine bay and motor right and to your liking. 

On mine, I chose Eastwood 2K ceramic paint after a thorough cleaning and prep, You'll need 3 cans to do it right. I skimped with 2 and had a job getting it all done. I have found it tough and durable albeit not easy to clean because of the texture. It does look good though. Your choice of course what paint you chose.

For the motor, I chose Dupilcolor Dark Corporate blue # 1604 (I think, check that).

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Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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The hood latch spring has snapped now lol. Its the smaller one that looks like it helps return the hook to its position. Is there a place I can acquire a new spring?

Yes,

One person is Mike Berardi Motor city mustang a vendor on this forum. Also Don at Ohio mustang has some donor cars as well.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Anyone know a radiator repair shop near Cleveland Ohio? I bought solder and fixed one of the holes but I can't locate where the rest are. I'll keep looking but I probably should find a shop to do it. I called around and everyone acts like repairing a radiator is such an odd question, its not some sh*tbox econo-car where you replace the radiator.

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I did not call and check any, you can do that, but I did a search on google, "Radiator Repair Shops Cleveland Ohio" and got a lot of results for places that repair them.

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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I did not call and check any, you can do that, but I did a search on google, "Radiator Repair Shops Cleveland Ohio" and got a lot of results for places that repair them.

 

Yes I tried just the local places around me and some were closed because of the virus, I will try calling the places on google.

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Just as a suggestion, if you can find a good shop to repair it, it will pay you in the long run to have it completely re-cored. On a stock radiator, I know for a fact you can at least go to a triple core and get way better cooling. Think of all the summer heat we may get to enjoy!

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Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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Just as a suggestion, if you can find a good shop to repair it, it will pay you in the long run to have it completely re-cored. On a stock radiator, I know for a fact you can at least go to a triple core and get way better cooling. Think of all the summer heat we may get to enjoy!

+1

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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