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7173Vert

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 14, 2018
Messages
906
Reaction score
300
Location
Ontario
My Car
1971 Convertible, 1973 Hardtop
Got myself aka through the Santa Fund; a 4-post lift. Still not sure if I can stack (2)71-3’s... But, it will be close. I can do more detailed on site measurements now that this is installed, but, the car’s are in winter hibernation until the Spring... 

Still, happy to have a 4- post lift to go with my Scissor lift... Now to run a separate breaker/power source out to the lift..



 
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Very nice.  Show pics with cars when and if you can.

thx

Ray
Will do Ray, in the Spring when they move to this new location...

 
Did you install it yourself?  If so was it difficult?  I read an install manual and it doesnt look hateful.
No... Thought about it, but, it had to be picked up at a warehouse 60 miles away. I would have had to rent a trailer, drive in pick it up, back home, enlist assembly help... I paid an install crew of three; $950 cash to do it all. Money well invested in my books. I got a good deal on the lift, so I reinvested some of the savings into the pickup and install. Watching them assemble the unit, I know it could be done if you take your time and have the necessary additional help to complete.

 
Great that you scored a lift. 

A question I would ask would be was it Independently tested by and accredited ANSI test facility? Some of the bargain prices lifts both two and four post are not tested. Here is info on testing. https://www.autolift.org/auto-lift-institute-vehicle-lift-certification-program/

When I was looking for a 10,000 lb. 2 post lift for my garage that was very important. If you go look at some of the testing on lifts that were not approved you will see some crumble when they have there approved loads applied. The arms just fold up. There are lots of videos of lifts failing and toppling. 

After I got my lift in I saw that Saleen Mustang uses them now at their plant. 

I bought a Danmar lift and I installed myself at age of 69. They come with 3 year warranty. They sat the lift on my trailer with fork truck and when I got home I used engine lift to pick up each column and stand up. 

The are actually pretty easy to install. They laser cut set up lines in the base and you strike a chalk line on the floor and align the laser cuts in the base and set the distance apart. You bolt on the upper cross bar. The hardest part was to drill the 3/4" bolt holes in the floor. I rented rotary HD drill and was done in less than 30 min. They send shims so you can set the columns plum and torque down the bolts. That took the longest to get it all plumb and same distance apart. Then you adjust the cables so each side goes up together and done. I had a friend come hook up the wires was very confusing diagram to me. 

I use the lift when just wiping the cars down raise them up to level that works best for my back, lol.

Once you get a lift of any type you wonder how you lived without it. 

I see they have the stacking lifts that go 4 high now. Expensive but if no space but up they do work.

 
It looks like your ceiling height is going to keep you from doing one on top of the other, but hopefully there's enough room.
I would not have bought if it would not do its intended duty. Having said this, we are talking inches of available space to fit the J Code vert on top and The Q Code Hardtop underneath. It may require the convertible roof being left open when on the lift to allow it to work... I am also dealing with the structural  beam running horizontal across the garage. I will have to back the vert in and onto the lift to meet that clearance requirement. 

All else fails... the vert will still go up and the Hardtop in the other Bay... I would then put my aluminum utility trailer under the vert... 

Probably going to sell the Green ‘73 vert anyway...

 
I really hope you don't take this wrong, because I'm trying to assist, and really hope it works out for you. There are usually blocks on the posts that act as stops for the locking mechanism. To get the locks to engage or disengage,you have to go above the blocks on all four corners and then let the lift come back down. When you measure, measure from the top of the lift when it's in the raised above the block position to see if you have clearance for the car above, then let it settle on to the block and measure for the car underneath. Since you say you only have a few inches to play with, it might make a difference. If you've already done the measuring this way, forget I said anything.

 
I really hope you don't take this wrong, because I'm trying to assist, and really hope it works out for you. There are usually blocks on the posts that act as stops for the locking mechanism. To get the locks to engage or disengage,you have to go above the blocks on all four corners and then let the lift come back down. When you measure, measure from the top of the lift when it's in the raised above the block position to see if you have clearance for the car above, then let it settle on to the block and measure for the car underneath. Since you say you only have a few inches to play with, it might make a difference. If you've already done the measuring this way, forget I said anything.
+1.

 
I really hope you don't take this wrong, because I'm trying to assist, and really hope it works out for you. There are usually blocks on the posts that act as stops for the locking mechanism. To get the locks to engage or disengage,you have to go above the blocks on all four corners and then let the lift come back down. When you measure, measure from the top of the lift when it's in the raised above the block position to see if you have clearance for the car above, then let it settle on to the block and measure for the car underneath. Since you say you only have a few inches to play with, it might make a difference. If you've already done the measuring this way, forget I said anything.
it’s all good... and yes I’ve calculated the locking mechanisms travel (upward) as well as the height of the platform itself. People generally state that you need a certain number of feet (ie: 11 feet) etc. to install one of these. The reality, you need just enough space to operate the lift with the two intended car’s on top of and underneath. This is how I planned this purchase. I will post a pic in the Spring when I get the car’s here. Cheer’s

 
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photo upload on internet

Tested the lift for the first time today with a car on top... 9’6” ceiling height is all I had to work with. To add insult to injury... I had a 12” beam running across the ceiling to factor in. All my calculations showed that with this lift, two '71-3 Mustang's could sit one on top of another, just.... I have 53 1/2” clear space underneath as it sits in this pic. The car’s need 52”... as long as I don’t bounce my way under the lift, no issue. For those with lifts, you know that in order to lower the upper car, you must first raise it to release the locks. I have 4 1/2” ceiling height available, again, as you see the car in this pic. I need 2 1/2” upward travel to release the locks... Some said it might not be possible with my ceiling height but, if we own, maintain, restore these car’s; we find a way... My wife is happy in that she got the new home she wanted. I have worked hard to get the garage where I need it to be based on a standard 2 car garage set up. 

I don’t see any issue with the way the car sits on the upper rack, but, if anyone see’s something, let me know. The lift is designed to take the weight anywhere along the tracks, as long as you keep four wheels on it  :whistling: My first time owning one of these. Great addition to a garage.

 
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Looks great. Tight fit for sure. The way it sits on the rack is perfectly fine, they are designed to distribute the weight evenly. Just watch your head. Don't ask how many times I've walked into mine. Of course my wife is hoping it will knock some sense into me one day. Being 6'2" doesn't help much with the head clearance either.

 
Looks great! Nothing wrong with a nice tight fit, lol. Wish I could do this in my garage. Anyway, good job on fit everything in and I bet you’re really happy with it.
Thx. Yes, I’m happy to know they will fit for sure. I’m not thrilled with the available clearances, but, 1” or 1 ft doesn’t make a difference as long as it works. Obviously, I will have to be careful raising and lowering the car, but I have marked the specific spots on the hoist to when to stop LOL.

 
Looks great. Tight fit for sure. The way it sits on the rack is perfectly fine, they are designed to distribute the weight evenly. Just watch your head. Don't ask how many times I've walked into mine. Of course my wife is hoping it will knock some sense into me one day. Being 6'2" doesn't help much with the head clearance either.
Thx. I’m 6’2”” also... I have 5 ft 7” under the gas tank LOL, so yes paying attention will be key. 

obviously, I will be more worried when I put the J Code Vert up there, as that will be its new parking space. It won’t be moved a lot so, should be fine.

 
It looks like your ceiling height is going to keep you from doing one on top of the other, but hopefully there's enough room.
I would not have bought if it would not do its intended duty. Having said this, we are talking inches of available space to fit the J Code vert on top and The Q Code Hardtop underneath. It may require the convertible roof being left open when on the lift to allow it to work... I am also dealing with the structural  beam running horizontal across the garage. I will have to back the vert in and onto the lift to meet that clearance requirement. 

All else fails... the vert will still go up and the Hardtop in the other Bay... I would then put my aluminum utility trailer under the vert... 

Probably going to sell the Green ‘73 vert anyway...
Good planning pay's off. Two Mustang's can fit on a 4-post with 9' 6" of ceiling height. Yes, only 2" of space between the top of the yellow car and the bottom of the hoist platform. Lot's of space :)  Today was moving day for the Pastel Blue Vert. First time I have had all three under one roof together. Next project...



 
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