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Anybody try or recommend a good bolt-on fiberglass mach 1 hood, fitment issues better than steel dynacrap hood?

I have my HEAVY, original mach hood, but needs major welding. Below hood bolts right one, saves much weight, too.

Was looking at hood from Unlimited products in CA.  

1971-1973 Mustang hood

Features full inner structure for strength (except for MU200T). Smooth gray gel coat finish. 

Bottom has full liner. Scoops are functional.300x170http://www.up22.com/MustangPhotos/MU200-300.jpg[/img]

For race weight version, order MU200T

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

208x96http://www.up22.com/MustangPhotos/MU200r-300.jpg[/img]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

126x212http://www.up22.com/MustangPhotos/MU200f-200.jpg[/img]

 

 Have run their tall boss 9 bolt-on scoop for years 

IMG-0137.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

Underside showing front latch and rear mount.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Anyone?

 

Not a NASA hood.

 

I'm also on a mission to shed weight from the front of my car, but I am sticking with a standard hood since I have a coupe.  One of these days I am going to cough up some money and go visit Charles Maier at Maier Racing and get one of their 71-73 standard hoods in fiberglass or carbon fiber.  Whenever that day comes I'll fit it up and report how good or bad it is on the forum.

 

 

Update- So I went and saw Charles Maier yesterday and bought one of these hoods...

The scoop intakes are just decals, and it strays from the true design quite a bit...  We’ll see what it looks like in a month or so when I pick it up.C7-DB2-E74-B346-4102-A156-4-D34-A485-F268.jpg

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I have been looking around for the same, but haven't actually pulled the trigger so I can't give any firsthand info.  VFN has good customer reviews as far as fitment and quality (on other cars).  Let us know what you go with.

 

http://www.vfnfiberglass.com/71-73mustang.htm

 

https://www.usbody.com/

 

https://www.darkhorseracing.net/71-73_mustang.htm

1973 vert 302, ginger on ginger.

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Sometimes I wonder if US shops would pay extra taxes to display descent images on their websites.

Why are so often expensive items displayed in thumbnail size??

 

Anyway, just wanted say the first pict of the hood above is quite impressive in terms of fabrication. (http://www.up22.com/Mustang71.htm)

It features the scoops with fully open cavities in the negative space of the mould, which basically is a massive pita to make

as you can't remove the part from the mould in one go or even remove it at all. So they must use some smart trick to have that done.

if someone buys one, i'd like very much to see big detail picture of that region when it's still unpainted. Very impressive to me.

 

You can see on the darkhorse or usbody versions that they cut where the negative space begins...

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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Fiberglass hoods have been discussed before on the forum. It appears that one of the biggest problems is the hinge spring is too strong for the lighter hood, and finding a suitable replacement.

https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-hood-struts?

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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Anybody try or recommend a good bolt-on fiberglass mach 1 hood, fitment issues better than steel dynacrap hood?

I have my HEAVY, original mach hood, but needs major welding. Below hood bolts right one, saves much weight, too.

Was looking at hood from Unlimited products in CA.  

1971-1973 Mustang hood

Features full inner structure for strength (except for MU200T). Smooth gray gel coat finish. 

Bottom has full liner. Scoops are functional.300x170http://www.up22.com/MustangPhotos/MU200-300.jpg[/img]

For race weight version, order MU200T

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

208x96http://www.up22.com/MustangPhotos/MU200r-300.jpg[/img]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

126x212http://www.up22.com/MustangPhotos/MU200f-200.jpg[/img]

 

 Have run their tall boss 9 bolt-on scoop for years 

IMG-0137.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

Underside showing front latch and rear mount.

 

 

For what it's worth, I have a Dynacorn hood and it fits extremely well.  I know you mentioned weight, which obviously would be an advantage with the fiberglass, but you also mentioned fit of the Dynacorn.  Maybe I just got lucky, but I can't imagine a fiberglass hood fitting better.

Lazarus-1.jpg

Lazarus

 

9-C51-EEB4-A25-A-4-F27-8-D01-0-EB879931296.jpg

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The repop hoods need to be "adjusted" to fit the fender curve properly, then the hem needs to be tacked to the inner sheetmetal. Any *good* body shop should be capable of doing this.

 

Regarding the glass hood question, I bought one of the Ram Air hoods from US Body Source about twenty years ago, when a group of friends did a big group buy and had eight glass hoods shipped up. All of them are still installed on the cars they were bought for and are in great condition. The Ram Air hood I bought fit pretty well, but it was the lift-off raceweight hood. I sold the car it was on. If you're going to do the hinged hood, make sure your hinges are in top condition with no binding, and you'll have to source some very light springs, or just go for a prop rod.

 

 

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I bought a fiberglass hood for my coupe a few years ago from a previous owner and don't remember which brand it is. However the fit is decent. I had to Dremel the scoops out to make them "functional". I wrapped it in a 3M product and added my own graphic to break up the sea of black, since our hoods are so large.

 

It was worthwhile for me, I lost close to ninety pounds off the front by ditching the steel ram-air hood, latch, springs and hinges.

 

 

glass-hood.jpg

  • Like 1

1971 Coupe - 306ci (circa 1971) - 10:1/750 Holley/RPM Air Gap/Lunati camshaft (221/231@.050)/Comp roller rockerarms/Ford Racing pulleys/Ported cylinder heads/MSD ignition/Patriot Ceramic LT headers/Single Chambers/Carter fuel pump/NOS Sniper/9" diff./4.57 gears/B&M Holeshot convertor/B&M Shiftkit/B&M Z-Gate/CE subframe connectors/Jegs Sport Star rims/Lakewood traction bars/Fiberglass Ram Air hood/Electric fan/Rear seat delete/Relocated battery/Custom graphics

 

1972 Mach 1 - Ford 400ci/C6 trans/Quick Fuel 750 carb/Weiand Intake/Harland Sharp rockers/Performance cam/Patriot headers/CVF racing underdrive pulleys/Carter Fuel pump/Jegs Sport Star rims/4.11 gears/Spool/Traction bars/Accel distributor and ignition/Miloden 8-quart/Jones Full Boar exhaust/Hurst Pro-matic 2 shifter

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I bought a fiberglass hood for my coupe a few years ago from a previous owner and don't remember which brand it is.  However the fit is decent. I had to Dremel the scoops out to make them "functional".  I wrapped it in a 3M product and added my own graphic to break up the sea of black, since our hoods are so large. 

 

It was worthwhile for me, I lost close to ninety pounds off the front by ditching the steel ram-air hood, latch, springs and hinges.

 

glass-hood.jpg

I like those graphics!! Reminds me of the duster 340 wedge stickers ::thumb::

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Thanks, to some degree, that was my inspiration. I wanted to do something that looked period correct and might be what Ford would have done with our ram air hoods

1971 Coupe - 306ci (circa 1971) - 10:1/750 Holley/RPM Air Gap/Lunati camshaft (221/231@.050)/Comp roller rockerarms/Ford Racing pulleys/Ported cylinder heads/MSD ignition/Patriot Ceramic LT headers/Single Chambers/Carter fuel pump/NOS Sniper/9" diff./4.57 gears/B&M Holeshot convertor/B&M Shiftkit/B&M Z-Gate/CE subframe connectors/Jegs Sport Star rims/Lakewood traction bars/Fiberglass Ram Air hood/Electric fan/Rear seat delete/Relocated battery/Custom graphics

 

1972 Mach 1 - Ford 400ci/C6 trans/Quick Fuel 750 carb/Weiand Intake/Harland Sharp rockers/Performance cam/Patriot headers/CVF racing underdrive pulleys/Carter Fuel pump/Jegs Sport Star rims/4.11 gears/Spool/Traction bars/Accel distributor and ignition/Miloden 8-quart/Jones Full Boar exhaust/Hurst Pro-matic 2 shifter

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  • 1 year later...

I was thinking today that a fiberglass hood would be a great idea to ditch weight from the front, a lot of weight - guesstimating 70-75lbs. There are interesting options in this thread. Has anyone figured out a set of springs? That shouldn't be that hard. It will be a matter of calculating the spring rate for the new hood. My hood is showing a lot of cracks on the interior edge and one large one on the exterior. I know there is a lot of bondo on the surface and I am afraid it will need repair sooner than later. The fiberglass option is appealing to shed a lot of weight from the front which should help with my AutoX times. My question is, IF I find the right shop, can i expect a good color and graphics match? I would like a hood option with the tunnel ram openings so I can transplant my working tunnel ram from my factory hood to a new fiberglass one. I would also want to keep the hood pins. I would like the same shop to fix my trunk lid since I damaged it earlier this summer when I bumped the spoiler against the garage door. Since they will have to match the trunk lid paint they might as well match the hood.

 

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Making a glass hood look good is hard work.  I can tell you don’t get one from Maier Racing in Hayward CA.  The buck is cool, it is from Bill Maier’s Trans am car, but it is very much race grade.  It is a good way to shed some weight but I gave up as I don’t want to buy $2,000 worth of fiberglass hoods to find one up to my standards.

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I am more curious about any of the ones listed above that have the stock look.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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4 minutes ago, Bentworker said:

When you find a good one be sure to share!

Hum... it seems that I will need to gamble $500. I will first talk to the shop to see what they say.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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  • 1 month later...

I hung my old hood on my garage wall with some cable and hooks kinda like hanging a picture. Check McMaster Carr for some springs, they will have something that can be modified to work. 

  • Like 1

[align=left]Jeff T.

 

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passengers. [/align]

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2 hours ago, MikeGriese said:

Use the hinge mounts and catch to hang the hood upside down from the ceiling.

That sounds like the most viable plan. I don't have much open wall or ceiling space. However, I should be able to fit it in the space between the garage door and ceiling. Or maybe I can bring it to my room and place it under the bed. I am sure the wife will love that idea.:whistling:

Edited by tony-muscle
  • LOL 1

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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18 hours ago, tony-muscle said:

The plan is to transfer the RAM air plenum from the old to the new hood. I will buy a set of new outside scoops and a new set of twist locks.

Hate to break the news now that you finally pulled the trigger, but this won't be as easy as you hope. I bought the VFN hood with the exact same plan....but none of the stuff fits the fiberglass hood, at least without some serious cutting and glass work. The underside looks like it will accommodate the plenum, but it doesn't (at least not the repop plenum I bought). Bear in mind that I have never had a nasa hood, so maybe I was just too dumb to figure it out, but it seemed like it wasn't even close. The plenum is asymmetric on the inside of the "U" part where it screws to the hood (one side is higher than the other). But if you look closely at the image on the VFN site, the U shape in the underside of the hood is totally symmetric all the way around, so no dice. Also the snorkels and the front trim strip are molded into the hood and the scoops are molded shut (inside and out). I'm sure you could get there with some careful cutting, but it isn't going to be as straightforward as just bolting everything up. I was just going to cut open the scoops for cosmetics, but without the plenum attached to route air into the engine, I was worried that air would get between the inside and outside molds and blow them apart at speed. Plus any cutting would require some work to clean up the edges. I will say the hood fits pretty good out of the box, though. It seems a little short front to back(maybe 1/4"), but my fender alignments are such a mess that it may not be the hood's fault. Also the entire perimeter of the hood where the inside/outside pieces meet just looks like 2 chunks of fiberglass glued together. This just may be the norm for glass hoods, but this is my first so I was surprised at how unfinished it looks. But you can't see it with the hood closed, so it usually doesn't bother me....usually. Originality waved bye-bye to my mustang a long time ago, so most of these gripes are minor. I still plan to cut open the scoops and do some glassing to get it looking better and to try to get the plenum working somehow, but that made it a MUCH larger project than I had originally anticipated, which is why it is still exactly the way it came out the box almost 2 years ago. 

All that being said- it is actually a very well-made and good looking hood....as long as you aren't looking for functional ram air. And it is sooo much lighter than the stock hood that I was able to set on the roof of my convertible last winter when I had the engine out without being worried about it effin up my top.

On 10/15/2021 at 3:28 PM, tony-muscle said:

it seems that I will need to gamble $500

...plus truck freight!

 

18 hours ago, tony-muscle said:

need to find a replacement hood spring

maybe I'm lazy, but I just run it without springs. I hand-made a custom hood prop from a billet wood broom handle- very trick. I use the prop to get the hood open, and then I attach a pair of turnbuckles to the spring points on the hinges to hold the hood up. It actually works great, and I can take out the prop once the turnbuckles are in place.

 

5 minutes ago, tony-muscle said:

I am sure the wife will love that idea.:whistling:

remember- it's always easier to ask forgiveness than permission.

 

1973 vert 302, ginger on ginger.

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15 minutes ago, slocody said:

Hate to break the news now that you finally pulled the trigger, but this won't be as easy as you hope. I bought the VFN hood with the exact same plan....but none of the stuff fits the fiberglass hood, at least without some serious cutting and glass work. The underside looks like it will accommodate the plenum, but it doesn't (at least not the repop plenum I bought). Bear in mind that I have never had a nasa hood, so maybe I was just too dumb to figure it out, but it seemed like it wasn't even close. The plenum is asymmetric on the inside of the "U" part where it screws to the hood (one side is higher than the other). But if you look closely at the image on the VFN site, the U shape in the underside of the hood is totally symmetric all the way around, so no dice. Also the snorkels and the front trim strip are molded into the hood and the scoops are molded shut (inside and out). I'm sure you could get there with some careful cutting, but it isn't going to be as straightforward as just bolting everything up. I was just going to cut open the scoops for cosmetics, but without the plenum attached to route air into the engine, I was worried that air would get between the inside and outside molds and blow them apart at speed. Plus any cutting would require some work to clean up the edges. I will say the hood fits pretty good out of the box, though. It seems a little short front to back(maybe 1/4"), but my fender alignments are such a mess that it may not be the hood's fault. Also the entire perimeter of the hood where the inside/outside pieces meet just looks like 2 chunks of fiberglass glued together. This just may be the norm for glass hoods, but this is my first so I was surprised at how unfinished it looks. But you can't see it with the hood closed, so it usually doesn't bother me....usually. Originality waved bye-bye to my mustang a long time ago, so most of these gripes are minor. I still plan to cut open the scoops and do some glassing to get it looking better and to try to get the plenum working somehow, but that made it a MUCH larger project than I had originally anticipated, which is why it is still exactly the way it came out the box almost 2 years ago. 

All that being said- it is actually a very well-made and good looking hood....as long as you aren't looking for functional ram air. And it is sooo much lighter than the stock hood that I was able to set on the roof of my convertible last winter when I had the engine out without being worried about it effin up my top.

...plus truck freight!

 

maybe I'm lazy, but I just run it without springs. I hand-made a custom hood prop from a billet wood broom handle- very trick. I use the prop to get the hood open, and then I attach a pair of turnbuckles to the spring points on the hinges to hold the hood up. It actually works great, and I can take out the prop once the turnbuckles are in place.

 

remember- it's always easier to ask forgiveness than permission.

 

Kind of sucks to read, but now I will be prepared. Thank you for sharing. They offered to cut the nostrils open at no charge so I accepted that offer. Since you have been through this I have a few questions:

-Will I need the hood scoops inserts or not (https://www.classicindustries.com/product/16c630a.html)?

-The issue with the air plenum being asymmetric versus the hood symmetric, do you think this can be worked on by modifying either?

 

Luckily I won't  pay for freight since they are about 2 hours away from me so I can go pick it up.

 

 

 

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Just now, tony-muscle said:

Will I need the hood scoops inserts

It probably depends on if/how you end up mounting the plenum. It will probably be fussy to make all the modifications to get them to work together so I just don't know. But cosmetically, no the new hood doesn't need the inserts- they are molded into the hood and would need to be cut away to use the metal ones.

 

1 minute ago, tony-muscle said:

do you think this can be worked on by modifying either?

 

Well fiberglass is pretty easy to work with, so you can do just about anything you want. My concern was getting the plenum screwed in securely once I start cutting. If you cut away the part of the plenum that interferes then you lose those mounting points. And if you cut away the offending part of the inner hood, then there's nothing to attach the screws to, since you cant screw through the outer layer of the hood. I'm sure you can figure something out with enough ingenuity. But I stood around and stared at the stupid thing for more time than I care to admit without a good solution. 

 

 

1973 vert 302, ginger on ginger.

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1 minute ago, slocody said:

It probably depends on if/how you end up mounting the plenum. It will probably be fussy to make all the modifications to get them to work together so I just don't know. But cosmetically, no the new hood doesn't need the inserts- they are molded into the hood and would need to be cut away to use the metal ones.

 

Well fiberglass is pretty easy to work with, so you can do just about anything you want. My concern was getting the plenum screwed in securely once I start cutting. If you cut away the part of the plenum that interferes then you lose those mounting points. And if you cut away the offending part of the inner hood, then there's nothing to attach the screws to, since you cant screw through the outer layer of the hood. I'm sure you can figure something out with enough ingenuity. But I stood around and stared at the stupid thing for more time than I care to admit without a good solution. 

 

 

Thank you. I guess I will have to wait five months..........:classic_wacko:

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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