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Adding power locks


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As part of the alarm system I am installing I wanted power locks. I started with the DEI 524n power lock solenoid and kit.

https://www.amazon.com/Install-Essentials-524N-Power-Motor/dp/B0009SWLE6/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=524n&qid=1578424973&s=automotive&sr=1-1

This one is a high power version and it comes with wires and rod hardware. There are many alternatives out there.

The pictures show the process better. In essence I found a location near the lock rods and oriented the solenoid vertically. Then you have to bend the provided rod to connect with the door lock rod and tie them with the supplied attachment block. The location of the solenoid uses an already existing hole in the door, so I had to only drill one more hole.

In the future I will attach the wires to a relay (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004J1LE7Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) which will eventually be wired to the remote controlled Viper alarm.

For now I tested the setup with a battery and it worked as expected. This is a two wire solenoid and the lock/unlock action is controlled by simply reversing the polarity.

 

524N solenoid:

20200106-225325.jpg

 

Installed in door and tested.

20200106-225400.jpg

 

You can see the two screws that hold the solenoid down from the lock at the bottom-right side of the door.

20200106-225854.jpg

Close-up of screws (the top hole was already part of the door so I only had to drill the bottom hole):

20200106-230032.jpg

 

Solenoid, lock rod and attachment after installation (inside of door view):

20200106-230004.jpg

  • Like 1

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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It is an easy mod. The expense will depend on what type of remote control system you use. In my case it will be tied to the alarm, but you can have it as stand alone, but for the price I don't see a reason why not add it as part of an alarm system. I will post later about the alarm once it is installed and working. However, alarms are not difficult to install as long as you are confortable with wiring and reading diagrams. I have done a few of these in the past so it is a matter of dealing with a bunch of wires and routing them.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Love it,  it is on to do list now :) ::thumb::

73 ragtop, 1999 Mustang Bright Atlantic Blue Paint, Phoenix Engine 302-335HP,  Edelbrock Carb & Performer manifold; c4 with 2000 stall and shiftkit; 3:55 auburn limited slip differential, Hedman shorties; Car Chemistry Exhaust

 

Classic Air; Tilt Steering Wheel; 1999 Chrysler Sebring bucket Seats ; power windows;

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That looks just like the Autoloc kit I bought a few years ago.  The passenger side isn't quite adjusted right on mine (for some reason), and it only works now and then.  When you unlock and/or lock one side, the other is supposed to unlock and/or lock as well, and there was no dedicated button for them, either.

 

When I finally get around to pulling my door panels to replace the power window motors (throwing out the Autolocs and replacing with SPALs), I'll re-engage these units.  I have a feeling they just suck, as most other things I've seen with the name 'Autoloc' on them.  Might have to replace them, too.

Eric

mach1sig2.gif

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  • 10 months later...

As a feedback. I love the power locks. They still work great. As a suggestion, the screws that attach the solenoid rod to the lock rod can come lose over time. It happened to one of my doors. I ended up using Threadlock Blue and then a pass with hot melt glue to make sure they stay in place.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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