Jump to content

Recommended Posts

20 minutes ago, Canted 393 said:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-8869

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tay-401001

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tay-718222

Here is an option that i run on a few cars. Taylor has a better box and is US made, their coils work well too.

Did you have to get a smaller bracket for their coil? 

Chris - Born in '73 - Drive a '73

Former Mechanic U.S. Army

1st Infantry Division - The Big Red One

BIG RED MACH 1

Learning a lesson (or three) on the Cleveland every day.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 327
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

General consensus is go with DuraSpark, Performance Distributors made to order by the looks of it. Cheaper too! https://performancedistributors.com/product-category/distributors/ford-distributors

I've run MSD 6AL boxes for many years with good success. Be aware that any of the CD boxes that power the coil directly (MSD, Taylor etc) will require the use of an MSD 8920 Tach Adapter to maintain f

I just finished a Duraspark 1 conversion on my 429, used a box and coil from Rockauto and a new custom-curved distributor from Scotty J http://reincarnation-automotive.com/services Seems to run g

Posted Images

I've run MSD 6AL boxes for many years with good success. Be aware that any of the CD boxes that power the coil directly (MSD, Taylor etc) will require the use of an MSD 8920 Tach Adapter to maintain functionality of the factory tachometer.

The Duraspark uses the factory circuit to power the coil, so there are no issues. 

If you decide to go Duraspark, I recommend the Duraspark 1 Red grommet unit which was used in 302 V8 application in CA 77-78.

George Pence explains it well here, about halfway down :  https://pantera.infopop.cc/topic/parts-needed-to-convert-duraspark

I installed the setup in a friend's 72 F150 and it starts and runs like an MSD equipped vehicle. The built in start-spark retard function is really nice. You will have to bypass the resistance wire, but that's pretty easy. You must run the matching coil for the D1 box. 

Control Module

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=49690&cc=1134818&jsn=2819

Coil

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=47258&cc=1134818&jsn=2830

  • Thanks 1

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Appreciate all of the suggestions and options guys. I think I'm going to go with Hemikiller's suggestion on the Duraspark setup through Rock Auto. 

Chris - Born in '73 - Drive a '73

Former Mechanic U.S. Army

1st Infantry Division - The Big Red One

BIG RED MACH 1

Learning a lesson (or three) on the Cleveland every day.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Good choice, the red grommet is the best one, I didn't know they were available aftermarket.

  • Fist Bump 1

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Everybody keeps putting China down. Look on your computer and phone and see who made them. The U.S. it to lazy to do the difficult jobs they just keep the easy stuff here. 
It amazed me when I ordered a new computer order on a Monday and delivered on Saturday made to order in China and shipped to the U.S. in one week. I am lucky to get an in stock mustang part in a week here. If the company buying from china has proper quality control in place there is not an issue. When you let them do what they want of course they are going the cheapest way just like here in U.S..

I am all for buy US but there is not much out there and some not so good. I have worked with Roybi here in the U.S. in S.C.. They made lots of Craftsman tools and of course Roybi. They have area in the plant that looks just like Home Depot they have to design and build the displays also. They told me the design life for their tools was 10 hours of use. They said most home owners never use one that much. But most home owners do not have a rust mustang to work on either.

 

  • Sad 1

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

Link to post
Share on other sites

Sadly, I agree. Chinese product across a broad spectrum of industries have seen a huge upgrade in their quality the last couple of years. The mainstream marketplace was finally starting to see Chinese product for what it was... cheap, but crap. With the improvements in quality that many of their plants are starting to put out now, the Chinese are actually becoming a bigger thereat than they ever were. 

Having said that I still try to buy Made in USA whenever it makes sense. 

Chris - Born in '73 - Drive a '73

Former Mechanic U.S. Army

1st Infantry Division - The Big Red One

BIG RED MACH 1

Learning a lesson (or three) on the Cleveland every day.

Link to post
Share on other sites

David the msd boxes were all usa made , at a premium price the only reason their made in cornaville is for larger profits not a better or cheaper product.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Big Red mach thats a solid plan, best bang for your buck you can do. If you need a rev limiter or multiple spark at idle you can always upgrade to a cd box later.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, Canted 393 said:

Big Red mach thats a solid plan, best bang for your buck you can do. If you need a rev limiter or multiple spark at idle you can always upgrade to a cd box later.

We'll see how this setup does as far as easier starting, smoother idle an less raw fuel smell at idle goes. If I'm not satisfied, I'll jump up to the Taylor or MSD setup. This was pretty inexpensive, so it won't kill me to abandon it if I have to. 

Chris - Born in '73 - Drive a '73

Former Mechanic U.S. Army

1st Infantry Division - The Big Red One

BIG RED MACH 1

Learning a lesson (or three) on the Cleveland every day.

Link to post
Share on other sites
23 hours ago, Canted 393 said:

Msd boxes were the cats meow, but recently they are all made in china.

I also recall reading in Hot Rod mag or one of them about fake MSD boxes. Make sure you get the real thing.

This article is from a while ago so dont know if its still an issue.  It must have been a while ago because it was in my long term memory. If it was recent, I wouldnt have recalled it!

 

https://www.thecounterfeitreport.com/product/244/MSD-6AL-Ignitions.html

  • WTF 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
14 hours ago, Canted 393 said:

David the msd boxes were all usa made , at a premium price the only reason their made in cornaville is for larger profits not a better or cheaper product.

Exactly. When MSD was bought by Holley, much of their product line went straight to China. The change was so quick that they were shipping Chinese-built distributors in "Made in USA" labelled boxes with a "Made in China" sticker over the country of origin. 

 

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

I just finished a Duraspark 1 conversion on my 429, used a box and coil from Rockauto and a new custom-curved distributor from Scotty J http://reincarnation-automotive.com/services

Seems to run great but only got it done yesterday so not many miles yet.

I attached below the wiring schematic that I used that I stole from George P. I converted to a 3G alternator at the same time, so I used the old 'I' wire from the original external VR that is eliminated to trigger the relay. If you are still running the old charging system you can use the original resistor wire that powered the coil to trigger the DS box relay (as in George's schematic). For the realy info, I don't think polarity on the relay coil is a big deal (George and the Internet have them opposite).

256024456_DSIWiringSchematic.thumb.JPG.851dc6ae548183236dff8c208ae5fa76.JPG

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Every coil I've ever used has had screw in terminals. I've never seen a connector type like this. What's the proper connector to these posts? 

 

20200917_175131.thumb.jpg.c865b86bd82ce2476697a2c880826eed.jpg

Chris - Born in '73 - Drive a '73

Former Mechanic U.S. Army

1st Infantry Division - The Big Red One

BIG RED MACH 1

Learning a lesson (or three) on the Cleveland every day.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Duraspark coils use the below connector usually called a 'horseshoe' connector

686817793_HorseshoeConnector.thumb.JPG.33db93a80d2c3f3daad304f34f0a4b2f.JPG

The female box and dizzy harness connectors are available aftermarket as well. Depending on which DS system (1 or 2) you decide to go with I found the below chart somewhere that details compatability

401686335_IgnitionInfo.JPG.4a0e99806a5dfd4268be0e013e4da397.JPG

Check out those plug gaps!

Edited by mjlan
added more info
Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the info on the connector. I have never seen one of those before. I have the red box. OMG!!! That .60 is the grand canyon of spark plug gaps!!!! :classic_laugh:

Chris - Born in '73 - Drive a '73

Former Mechanic U.S. Army

1st Infantry Division - The Big Red One

BIG RED MACH 1

Learning a lesson (or three) on the Cleveland every day.

Link to post
Share on other sites

The D1 is no joke, but I wouldn't run the .060" gap specified, .035"~.045" is plenty especially if you're using a stock type small diameter cap. 

  • Thanks 1

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Would this work? I'm thinking maybe not. But was this hoping it would  and keep the wiring as clean and neat as possible with no splicing. But it looks like there may be some extra wires here as compared to the schematic mjlan posted above. 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aww-500918

Edited by Big Red Mach 1

Chris - Born in '73 - Drive a '73

Former Mechanic U.S. Army

1st Infantry Division - The Big Red One

BIG RED MACH 1

Learning a lesson (or three) on the Cleveland every day.

Link to post
Share on other sites

It states in the description that it's not compatible with OEM DuraSpark.

The one from Painless that costs $20 less should work.

 

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, Don C said:

It states in the description that it's not compatible with OEM DuraSpark.

The one from Painless that costs $20 less should work.

 

Thanks Don C. I noticed that, but I can't distinguish between OEM and non-OEM Duraspark systems. 

Chris - Born in '73 - Drive a '73

Former Mechanic U.S. Army

1st Infantry Division - The Big Red One

BIG RED MACH 1

Learning a lesson (or three) on the Cleveland every day.

Link to post
Share on other sites

What you'll be installing will have original connectors, that wiring harness doesn't mate to original connectors.

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 4 weeks later...
On 9/7/2020 at 11:12 AM, Stanglover said:

General consensus is go with DuraSpark, Performance Distributors made to order by the looks of it. Cheaper too!

https://performancedistributors.com/product-category/distributors/ford-distributors/ford-duraspark-distributors/

Update: I have to say that I probably would not use these guys again. It's been 5 weeks and no dizzy. I emailed to check on it a couple of weeks ago and was told that it would ship in the 4th week. It now hasn't shipped in the 5th week, and they don't even return emails it seems. I'm not sure when I'll get it honestly. I'm fine with the wait, but it's the lack of communication that bothers me most. That and the odd thing where they didn't sell the boxes and harness anymore, but still had them on their site, and let me order them before they told me they were no longer available. Clearly they have more work than they can handle. Quality can often go down in times like that. I hope that's not the case here. 

Chris - Born in '73 - Drive a '73

Former Mechanic U.S. Army

1st Infantry Division - The Big Red One

BIG RED MACH 1

Learning a lesson (or three) on the Cleveland every day.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

Still waiting on the new dizzy. They finally shipped it. So will probably have it 7 weeks from time of order. 

Have been setting timing this whole time with the vacuum advance capped off. 16 is what the car has liked. Hooked up the vacuum advance, and everything else. Took it up to the corner to get gas. It was a bit slow to restart at the gas station. Got it home, shut it off and tried it again. Again a bit slow. Seemed like maybe I was a bit rich, but decided to put a timing light on it. timing was only at 10 deg. Doesn't make sense. Disconnected the vac advance again, loosened up the dizzy hold-down bolt and figured I'd turn it a hair until it started better, and then would reset at 16 from there. Just plain won't start now, no matter where I turn the dizzy. I gave it a bit of gas and it backfired through the carb. Ended up getting the starter super hot and draining the battery down. On a charger now. Will try again in the a.m. But what could cause my timing to retard from 16 to 10? . The dizzy seemed bolted down firmly. I could not turn it by hand. Bolt was tight. 

Chris - Born in '73 - Drive a '73

Former Mechanic U.S. Army

1st Infantry Division - The Big Red One

BIG RED MACH 1

Learning a lesson (or three) on the Cleveland every day.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...