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Timing ring on the harmonic balancer slipping is one possibility.

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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General consensus is go with DuraSpark, Performance Distributors made to order by the looks of it. Cheaper too! https://performancedistributors.com/product-category/distributors/ford-distributors

Msd boxes were the cats meow, but recently they are all made in china.

IF it ain't one thing, it's another. It never seems to stop. That sucks man! One step forward a three back. Something isn't right for sure. I really hope you don't end up pulling the motor for a rebui

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4 minutes ago, Don C said:

Timing ring on the harmonic balancer slipping is one possibility.

No. We checked that a handful of posts ago. Plus, I don't think I'd have the actual symptoms of a thru carb backfire and hard to crank. 

Chris - BIG RED MACH 1

Born in '73 - Drive a '73

Former U.S. Army 63B10-H8

1st Infantry Division - The Big Red One

 

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10° should be easier to start with than 16°.

At first I thought you might be having a carburetor heat soak/percolation problem, but now I'm think something else because it won't start.

The backfiring through the carb can be an indication of a lean issue, or a really bad ignition timing problem. The other possibility for the slipped timing is that the pin that holds the gear to the distributor shaft has sheared. Does your car have the stock volume and pressure oil pump?

Just in case it is flooded I would let it set for a while and try starting it again. Also check your oil to see if it smells like gas.

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“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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Got it started and timed right. Definitely gas in the oil. Drove it up to my local cars and coffee even this morning, maybe 5 miles. Even though my gauge didn't show overheating, I puked a tiny bit of coolant, and it puked a little again when I got home. There was some sludge in the brand new radiator, that I'm sure hoping isn't oil. I have another cooling thread on this page. I did not flush the system completely when I put in the new radiator. Just added distilled water and coolant. I'm hoping the sludge is from the old coolant parts like the block and water pump. Seems like my threads I post are merging. 

Chris - BIG RED MACH 1

Born in '73 - Drive a '73

Former U.S. Army 63B10-H8

1st Infantry Division - The Big Red One

 

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Didn't really look like oil to me, but definitely makes me nervous. 

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Chris - BIG RED MACH 1

Born in '73 - Drive a '73

Former U.S. Army 63B10-H8

1st Infantry Division - The Big Red One

 

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IF it ain't one thing, it's another. It never seems to stop. That sucks man! One step forward a three back. Something isn't right for sure. I really hope you don't end up pulling the motor for a rebuild. 

Follow the advice of Don C .

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Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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I set it at 16 with no vac. I've never noticed it move before like that. I've also never seen one retard like this when on VAC. Same as you mentioned, if anything, it should actually advance. It is a single vac advance. 

After a 7 week wait, my new Duraspark box and dizzy are here now, so hopefully I'll get a chance to pull this old Mallory stuff out this weekend. 

Based on everything I sent them, Performance Distributors has the new dizzy calibrated for 22* @ 3000rpm. We'll see how that works. 

Edited by Big Red Mach 1

Chris - BIG RED MACH 1

Born in '73 - Drive a '73

Former U.S. Army 63B10-H8

1st Infantry Division - The Big Red One

 

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Just wondering if your breaker plate ( or vacuum advance is sticking ). i.e you set timing for what is believed to be 16 BTDC, drive it,  breaker plate or advance arm changes, timing drops to 10 BTDC. Seems odd that timing would change like that after driving. 

My 71 had the opposite thing happening. I would set initial timing to 10 BTDC, drive it, recheck timing ( vac hoses disconnected and plugged ) and it would be 17 BTDC. I would mistakenly reset to 10 which would now be almost TDC so totally wrong.

After checking a few other things, turned out to be a sticking arm in my vacuum advance. so replaced that with a new vacuum advance from NPD with adjustable vacuum and had all kinds of issues such as hard starting, backfiring etc.. Dont know exactly why.

Replaced with NOS correct part for the car, as well as lubing up breaker plate while dizzy was open and everything now works as expected.

Cant comment on carb/engine changes mentioned in the previous 13 pages since I'm not at that knowledge level. Just wanted to pass on my experience.

 

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I managed to get my timing issues sorted, somehow the gearbox was binding while in park. Put the car into N and start and its perfect, so out comes the tranny to figure out why 

 

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