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71 Mustang cowl area.


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Thanks for the reply. I do not have A/C and I hope I don't run into anything like you posted. Fingers & toes crossed.

Before I start cutting and removing the sheet metal that is covering the vent, I found a rubber plug on the drivers side that I will remove and insert an inspection camera to hopefully get an idea of what is going in the cowl area (I found a camera on Amazon that hooks up to my iPhone that has lights).

If I can get pictures using this device I will certainly post them.

I am curious as to which camera you got that works with iPhone and how it actually works when you get it.

Please post what camera you ordered. That sounds like a good early Christmas present for me  Thank you

I have not ordered the camera yet. The camera needed depends on the type of phone you have. I currently have a LG G5 Android phone which uses a 'Type C USB connector'. The camera I found on Ebay from a Canadian seller for less than $15.00 is: TYPE C USB Mini Endoscope Camera 7mm 2m 1m 1.5m Flexible Hard Cable Snake Borescope Inspection Camera for Android Smartphone PC.

Hope this helps?

Hope this helps?

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Back to your original issue wipers. There is a tricky little clip on the wiper motor that retains the arm going to the wipers. It has a hook that snaps over the end of the pivot pin on the wiper motor arm. You have to lift the tab up to slide the clip off. They are known to jump off and bing gone. 

Once you get the arm unhooked you can remove your wiper motor. I took mine apart and it was full of dried up grease. I washed everything up and put Lucas Red & Tacky grease back in. Way better than the old lubriplate white grease. I use on windows also. 

With your camera you should be able to see the clip and get off easily. You need to get you a pair of the grills to go back on your cowl vents. 

I always tell people not to wash your mustang with running water. I goes into the cowl, doors and quarters and feeds the rust. The old sealer was applied before primer even. So it cracks and that exposes raw steel to the water. 

I use 1/4" mesh wire to put a barrier on the back side of the plastic inserts. I spray flat black on the wire and you cannot see. I also put a piece of it over the heater box opening when I take them out. The other place critters get in is the two cowl vent drains on each side. I cut a piece of stainless steel scrubber pad and stuff in there. Mouse cannot get in and water can get out. 

Cowl vent leaks are usually what causes the front floors to rust out. Water leaks in and keeps the carpet wet and rust the floor from inside.

Sorry not pics I had computer crash and this one is about dead also. The touch pad quit working and I slapped on wireless keyboard to keep it going.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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Hopefully, you won't find anything like mine.   :whistling:

 

cowl1.jpg

 

cowladamagedriver.jpg

 

cowldamagepassenger.jpg

 

It's been long since repaired, the hard way (with pieces from another car).  There are complete reproduction cowl pieces available these days, though.

Eric

mach1sig2.gif

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Hopefully, you won't find anything like mine.   :whistling:

 

cowl1.jpg

 

cowladamagedriver.jpg

 

cowldamagepassenger.jpg

 

It's been long since repaired, the hard way (with pieces from another car).  There are complete reproduction cowl pieces available these days, though.

My goodness..........was that on the bottom of a river or lake? You must have unbelievable patience to look at that the first time and say ...I CAN FIX IT  :chin: and thats why your my HERO!

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Hopefully, you won't find anything like mine.   :whistling:

 

cowl1.jpg

 

cowladamagedriver.jpg

 

cowldamagepassenger.jpg

 

It's been long since repaired, the hard way (with pieces from another car).  There are complete reproduction cowl pieces available these days, though.

Eric, I think now I know who's car is this:

safe-image.jpg

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Thanks for sharing. I hope I don't find what you have and I hope it's not contagious.

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My goodness..........was that on the bottom of a river or lake? You must have unbelievable patience to look at that the first time and say ...I CAN FIX IT  :chin: and thats why your my HERO!

 

Trust me - there were times when I considered throwing in the towel, but that would've meant caving in to all the nay-sayers - they just made me more determined to make it work, and all the wonderful folks here providing information and encouragement bolstered that determination ten-fold!

 

I just wish those Dynacorn cowl panels would've come along about 18 months sooner. ;)  :cool:

 

The DSO Code on the door sticker was for Lansing, MI... so, it left Dearborne and went right up the road where it sat for about a year before being sold (according to the Marti Report) and eventually found its way to Wichita Falls, TX sometime before 1981 (last registered in 1980 and had a Sheppard AFB base sticker on the bumper).  I'll bet they beat the crap out of it, seized up the engine, then put it out to pasture to die a slow death.

 

This is actually what I first saw and thought, "Oh Brother - what have I done."  Up to that point, I still had the Mach 1 Goggles on and didn't know what I didn't know.

 

enginebay10.jpg

 

Nothing a new front clip couldn't solve, though.   ::thumb::

Eric

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Thanks for the reply. I do not have A/C and I hope I don't run into anything like you posted. Fingers & toes crossed.

Before I start cutting and removing the sheet metal that is covering the vent, I found a rubber plug on the drivers side that I will remove and insert an inspection camera to hopefully get an idea of what is going in the cowl area (I found a camera on Amazon that hooks up to my iPhone that has lights).

If I can get pictures using this device I will certainly post them.

I am curious as to which camera you got that works with iPhone and how it actually works when you get it.

Please post what camera you ordered. That sounds like a good early Christmas present for me  Thank you

This is the camera I purchased: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Waterproof-HD-3-in1-Android-USB-Type-C-Endoscope-Inspection-5-5mm-Camera-6-LEDs/312798571959?var=611526702747

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Hopefully, you won't find anything like mine.   :whistling:

 

cowl1.jpg

 

cowladamagedriver.jpg

 

cowldamagepassenger.jpg

 

It's been long since repaired, the hard way (with pieces from another car).  There are complete reproduction cowl pieces available these days, though.

Eric, I think now I know who's car is this:

safe-image.jpg

 

Ha!  Honestly, I'd wondered...   rofl

Eric

mach1sig2.gif

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Update: I decided to treat removal of the sheet metal over the vent area like a band aid - ripper off.

The sheet metal that covered the vent holes was not welded in but a layer of silicone beaded around the edge so removal was very easy.CIMG2458.jpgCIMG2459.jpgCIMG2461.jpg

On the passenger cowl side, there was a repair done from underneath the dash area.

What I found was quite a surprise and relieved at the same time - see pics and let me know what you thin

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So the round vent hole has been removed and sheet metal fitted from the underside, to do that the previous owner would have had to remove Heater box, are there any modifications to your heater box? Wondering how fresh air gets into the car?

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Yes the round vent hole has been removed and sheet metal fitted under the dash by the previous owner (see pic).

I would imagine that the heater box was removed to do this repair and from what I can see there have been no modifications to the heater box.

As for fresh air I roll the windows down.

 

 

CIMG2173.jpg

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You have a part missing from your Heater Box! The fan should be enclosed and there would have been an Upturn going to the missing round metal Vent hole with a rubber gasket.

(so the fan would have been drawing in fresh air from outside the car).

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92GTS-R is correct. I do not have the ducting work coming off the heater box and mrxerox is bang on about the 'toe warmer'.

My heater control does not have the 'vent' option anyway, so I do not have that luxury of drawing fresh air in through a vent anyways (as per pic).

I do plan on making a shroud that turns up on a 90 degree angle to help draw in air to the heater box and possibly reduce fan noise.

One thing is for sure, myself and my passengers are not freezing our b-hinds off as the heater works excellent and Fords have always been known for their heaters.

heater-control.jpg

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My goodness..........was that on the bottom of a river or lake? You must have unbelievable patience to look at that the first time and say ...I CAN FIX IT  :chin: and thats why your my HERO!

 

Trust me - there were times when I considered throwing in the towel, but that would've meant caving in to all the nay-sayers - they just made me more determined to make it work, and all the wonderful folks here providing information and encouragement bolstered that determination ten-fold!

 

I just wish those Dynacorn cowl panels would've come along about 18 months sooner. ;)  :cool:

 

The DSO Code on the door sticker was for Lansing, MI... so, it left Dearborne and went right up the road where it sat for about a year before being sold (according to the Marti Report) and eventually found its way to Wichita Falls, TX sometime before 1981 (last registered in 1980 and had a Sheppard AFB base sticker on the bumper).  I'll bet they beat the crap out of it, seized up the engine, then put it out to pasture to die a slow death.

 

This is actually what I first saw and thought, "Oh Brother - what have I done."  Up to that point, I still had the Mach 1 Goggles on and didn't know what I didn't know.

 

enginebay10.jpg

 

Nothing A LITTLE BUFFING COMPOUND COULDN'T solve, though.   ::thumb::

Eric ... fixed that for you   rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl

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92GTS-R is correct. I do not have the ducting work coming off the heater box and mrxerox is bang on about the 'toe warmer'.

My heater control does not have the 'vent' option anyway, so I do not have that luxury of drawing fresh air in through a vent anyways (as per pic).

I do plan on making a shroud that turns up on a 90 degree angle to help draw in air to the heater box and possibly reduce fan noise.

One thing is for sure, myself and my passengers are not freezing our b-hinds off as the heater works excellent and Fords have always been known for their heaters.

heater-control.jpg

 

If you ever decide to put aftermarket AC in the car (Vintage air, etc...) It will come with a block off plate for that hole anyway so you are a step ahead already by being rid of it. I would suggest cleaning up the transition on the top side to the patch piece so that water cannot sit under the old metal and then use a POR15 or equivalent to keep it from rusting out further. 

 

P.S. The "Cool" side is the vent.

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My goodness..........was that on the bottom of a river or lake? You must have unbelievable patience to look at that the first time and say ...I CAN FIX IT  :chin: and thats why your my HERO!

 

Trust me - there were times when I considered throwing in the towel, but that would've meant caving in to all the nay-sayers - they just made me more determined to make it work, and all the wonderful folks here providing information and encouragement bolstered that determination ten-fold!

 

I just wish those Dynacorn cowl panels would've come along about 18 months sooner. ;)  :cool:

 

The DSO Code on the door sticker was for Lansing, MI... so, it left Dearborne and went right up the road where it sat for about a year before being sold (according to the Marti Report) and eventually found its way to Wichita Falls, TX sometime before 1981 (last registered in 1980 and had a Sheppard AFB base sticker on the bumper).  I'll bet they beat the crap out of it, seized up the engine, then put it out to pasture to die a slow death.

 

This is actually what I first saw and thought, "Oh Brother - what have I done."  Up to that point, I still had the Mach 1 Goggles on and didn't know what I didn't know.

 

enginebay10.jpg

 

Nothing A LITTLE BUFFING COMPOUND COULDN'T solve, though.   ::thumb::

Eric ... fixed that for you   rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl

 

lollerz lollerz lollerz lollerz lollerz

Eric

mach1sig2.gif

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92GTS-R is correct. I do not have the ducting work coming off the heater box and mrxerox is bang on about the 'toe warmer'.

My heater control does not have the 'vent' option anyway, so I do not have that luxury of drawing fresh air in through a vent anyways (as per pic).

I do plan on making a shroud that turns up on a 90 degree angle to help draw in air to the heater box and possibly reduce fan noise.

One thing is for sure, myself and my passengers are not freezing our b-hinds off as the heater works excellent and Fords have always been known for their heaters.

heater-control.jpg

 

If you ever decide to put aftermarket AC in the car (Vintage air, etc...) It will come with a block off plate for that hole anyway so you are a step ahead already by being rid of it. I would suggest cleaning up the transition on the top side to the patch piece so that water cannot sit under the old metal and then use a POR15 or equivalent to keep it from rusting out further. 

 

P.S. The "Cool" side is the vent.

 

 

The Classic Auto Air set-up only runs air from the inside, which would be dedicated 'recirculation mode' or 'Max A/C' for factory-equipped cars.  That's why they say to leave the passenger side 'air hat' intake open.  I made a second round plate to block that one off as well, but I think I'll wind up removing it and reinstalling the passenger side non-A/C fresh air plenum piece so I can use the cable-operated function to switch between fresh and recirculated air.  Probably take some creative thinking to make it work with the flex ducts that came with the CAA kit, though.

 

1427408021_i.jpg

Eric

mach1sig2.gif

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92GTS-R is correct. I do not have the ducting work coming off the heater box and mrxerox is bang on about the 'toe warmer'.

My heater control does not have the 'vent' option anyway, so I do not have that luxury of drawing fresh air in through a vent anyways (as per pic).

I do plan on making a shroud that turns up on a 90 degree angle to help draw in air to the heater box and possibly reduce fan noise.

One thing is for sure, myself and my passengers are not freezing our b-hinds off as the heater works excellent and Fords have always been known for their heaters.

heater-control.jpg

 

If you ever decide to put aftermarket AC in the car (Vintage air, etc...) It will come with a block off plate for that hole anyway so you are a step ahead already by being rid of it. I would suggest cleaning up the transition on the top side to the patch piece so that water cannot sit under the old metal and then use a POR15 or equivalent to keep it from rusting out further. 

 

P.S. The "Cool" side is the vent.

 

 

The Classic Auto Air set-up only runs air from the inside, which would be dedicated 'recirculation mode' or 'Max A/C' for factory-equipped cars.  That's why they say to leave the passenger side 'air hat' intake open.  I made a second round plate to block that one off as well, but I think I'll wind up removing it and reinstalling the passenger side non-A/C fresh air plenum piece so I can use the cable-operated function to switch between fresh and recirculated air.  Probably take some creative thinking to make it work with the flex ducts that came with the CAA kit, though.

 

1427408021_i.jpg

Good idea. Just like the drivers side wired butterfly. That's one of the reasons I didn't like the Classic Auto Air system.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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On that note, I installed the CAA system over the winter,and left the driver side hat and pull cable intact. I think it allows adequate fresh air into the cabin when the pull cable/hat is open. It just all comes in under the dash vs the vent. It would take some creative fabrication to integrate the CAA flex ducts without degrading the AC air flow on that side.

Black 1971 Mach 1

351C/FMX/TrickFlow Heads/Lunati Retro Roller Conversion

Classic Auto AC, Manual Front Discs, Upgraded Springs/Shocks/Close-Ratio Steering

 

IMG-2977.jpg

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I still have both of my non-A/C butterfly vent assemblies, but I don't recall which one was seized up/rusted in-place.  I'm hoping the passenger side is the better of the two, but I'm not picky, since the fresh air would come in closer to the HVAC unit itself.  

 

But actually, now that I think about it, the driver side would be the easier of the two to switch modes from the driver seat, since I'd have to reach all the way across the console to get to the passenger side cable pull.

 

Augh!  These 'first world problems' are such a bear!  LOL!

Eric

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I still have both of my non-A/C butterfly vent assemblies, but I don't recall which one was seized up/rusted in-place.  I'm hoping the passenger side is the better of the two, but I'm not picky, since the fresh air would come in closer to the HVAC unit itself.  

 

But actually, now that I think about it, the driver side would be the easier of the two to switch modes from the driver seat, since I'd have to reach all the way across the console to get to the passenger side cable pull.

 

Augh!  These 'first world problems' are such a bear!  LOL!

 

Well, then install the passenger side with a longer cable so you can control both from under the steering wheel. More work but doable.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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I still have both of my non-A/C butterfly vent assemblies, but I don't recall which one was seized up/rusted in-place.  I'm hoping the passenger side is the better of the two, but I'm not picky, since the fresh air would come in closer to the HVAC unit itself.  

 

But actually, now that I think about it, the driver side would be the easier of the two to switch modes from the driver seat, since I'd have to reach all the way across the console to get to the passenger side cable pull.

 

Augh!  These 'first world problems' are such a bear!  LOL!

 

Well, then install the passenger side with a longer cable so you can control both from under the steering wheel. More work but doable.

 

Good point.  Probably able to use a universal manual choke cable or something to replace it to get the length, then just swap the knob and bracket.  Thanks!  ::thumb::

Eric

mach1sig2.gif

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I still have both of my non-A/C butterfly vent assemblies, but I don't recall which one was seized up/rusted in-place.  I'm hoping the passenger side is the better of the two, but I'm not picky, since the fresh air would come in closer to the HVAC unit itself.  

 

But actually, now that I think about it, the driver side would be the easier of the two to switch modes from the driver seat, since I'd have to reach all the way across the console to get to the passenger side cable pull.

 

Augh!  These 'first world problems' are such a bear!  LOL!

 

Well, then install the passenger side with a longer cable so you can control both from under the steering wheel. More work but doable.

 

Good point.  Probably able to use a universal manual choke cable or something to replace it to get the length, then just swap the knob and bracket.  Thanks!  ::thumb::

LOL. How easy we get suck into more projects to make our life easier..... :huh:

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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