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Does anyone make a filler panel for the big open area from the radiator to the bumper area, fender to fender, this area in the picture?  I had a metal one in my 1972 Javelin AMX, aftermarket of course, and it was nice to hide that open area, and in my case that extra fan (which I may remove once I start to drive the car and see if it is really needed or not, came that way)?  If not I wonder if a shop produced one would there be a market to sell them. 

 

engine-bay-front.jpg

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There is an aftermarket one available. I don't remember who has them right now but a couple members on here have purchased them and they have been discussed. Hopefully one of them will chime in. I am considering fabricating my own at some point.

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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Does anyone make a filler panel for the big open area from the radiator to the bumper area, fender to fender, this area in the picture?  I had a metal one in my 1972 Javelin AMX, aftermarket of course, and it was nice to hide that open area, and in my case that extra fan (which I may remove once I start to drive the car and see if it is really needed or not, came that way)?  If not I wonder if a shop produced one would there be a market to sell them. 

 

engine-bay-front.jpg

 

They did not come with that extra fan. Not sure why it was added. I have no over heating issues with my car. I would think that a filler panel could hinder cooling with a stock setup.

John - 72 Q Code

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I think the filler panel would aid in cooling by forcing more air through the radiator that enters through the grill.

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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I agree, I think more air would be directed into the radiator. That fan was there when I bought it, set to come on when A/C turned on. Needless to say unsure if there was an overheating problem with the ac on, will find out one day and if I think it is not needed I will remove it.

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Only reason I thought it wasn’t needed is that I’m sure they engineered that way. I would think that they did a great deal of testing to make sure that the cooling system would work well. But then again it would also have cost more to add that panel. All I know is that my fan really seems to push a great deal of air.

Maybe with the a/c on in your car it does too warm, but if so then something isn’t right. If it’s the original radiator and condenser, then probably needs to be flushed? Anyway I’m sure what ever you do it will be cool, lol.

John - 72 Q Code

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These cars usually heat up at Idle.  Not sure the extra piece would help any at a stand still.

 

kcmash

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If they needed more air, that's where the front spoiler came in

 

I'm not sure about that.  Spoilers are for aerodynamic purposes, and if someone actually put a Mustang in a wind tunnel, the front spoiler should reduce front end lift if it was designed properly.  Also, there isn't a pathway for the spoiler to direct air up into the engine compartment.

---

Mike

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The spoiler blocks some of the air flow under the car, creating a partial vacuum that pulls more air through the radiator. It can also help with front brake cooling for the same reason.

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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These cars usually heat up at Idle.  Not sure the extra piece would help any at a stand still.

 

kcmash

Exactly. The electric fan would be handy in a hot day with prolonged idle with A/C on. I wont set it to come on automatically with A/C but rather at a preset temperature.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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I'm thinking that the filler panel would actually help cool things regardless of whether rolling down the highway or sitting at idle.  The air comes through the grille and has options on where it can go - through the radiator is the best option for optimal cooling.  Blocking off some of the options forces the air through the radiator, fan, and fan shroud - think of it like Ram Air for the radiator.

 

As well, having a well-proportioned fan is key.  This 7-blade monster came from my buddy's '63.5 390 Galaxie 500 XL (he went with dual electrics, and even asked if I wanted to swap after he'd had them awhile).  It fits the factory shroud perfectly (1/2" of clearance all around) and before I installed the windshield and hood gasket, it would blow my hair back with the hood closed just moving the car in and out of the garage.

 

Does it still heat up at idle?  Sure... just a little, though... but only on a hot day (usually over 90-ish).

 

attachment.php?aid=31188

 

I'm thinking I need to order one of those filler panels.  Making one work with the hood locks might be a little challenging, though.  We'll see. ;)

Eric

mach1sig2.gif

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On the heating or maybe overheating issue. There are several things that can be a contributing factor. Since you are new to the car you do not know history.

1: pull the radiator cap and look in the tank. If you see build up on the ends of the tubes someone did not use distilled water in the radiator. Tap water has minerals in it and will clog the tube. If you see build up might need to get the radiator cleaned.

2: It seems to be quite a common mistake that people put the head gaskets on backwards. I am not a BB guy so know nothing about them. But the 302 and 351 C can be put on backwards. They are clearly marked FRONT but I think what throws people off is the mfg. log is on one side and if you put that logo facing to the head one gasket will be backwards. On a 302 you can pop the core plug out of the end of the head and feel of the gasket opening and determine if wrong. 

On the 351 C there is no core plug but you can take a mirror and look at the bottom corners on the gasket between the head and block. The rear of the gasket has a big radius the front is more square. So you can check if right without pulling the heads. 

A symptom of a backward head gasket is the car will almost get hot and when you stop and turn off the engine it will blow coolant out the overflow. This is caused by hot spot in the head that is not getting proper circulation. 

3: People use the wrong temp thermostats. Most people think that if they use a lower temp thermostat it will keep your engine cooler but not always so. Yes it opens sooner but stays open more. In some cases the water circulates too fast and does not remain in the radiator long enough to cool. Use a 192 deg. thermostat will give the water more time in the radiator to cool. 

4: The 351 C had a dual path water flow. This requires a thermostat that is made to extend out and go into a hole in a brass baffle washer inside the block under the thermostat. There is a fable that they do not make them but the do. They just do not look the same as some previous ones. Old ones had a hat formed on the end of the thermostat the new ones just have a plunger that goes into the baffle to change the flow. You should never remove the baffle from a 351-C . There is not baffle in a 302.

When you put a thermostat is sometimes you have an air bubble under the thermostat and they delay opening. To prevent this drill at 1/32" dia. hole that allows the air to come out of the block or intake and go into the radiator. 

5: If you have an automatic trans. you will get a longer life if you add a stand along trans cooler with it's own fan. This also takes the heat from the transmission out of the radiator.

My 73 vert has a 351 C 2-V heads with 4-V performer intake and holley. It is also bored .050" and has flat top pistons, cam and headers with dual exhaust. It has a C-4 with shift kit. I also have AC and PS so all of the things that can make a car run hotter. I have zero issues even when in stop and go slow traffic and over 90 deg. air temp. I do run a Hayden fan assisted auto transmission cooler. I made a couple brackets the mount it to the radiator support and the center grill support. I used factory installed pierce nuts and bolts so I added no holes. The trans fluid is much cooler than it was when using the radiator. The radiator is a stock Ford AC radiator.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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I got tired of the parts guys (O'Reilly's, AutoZone, Advance, Parts Plus, NAPA) never giving me the correct Cleveland thermostat.  So after the third trip, I read up on and did the Pantera Mod, and now use the Windsor thermostat that seems to be the only one the parts guys stock for Mustang 351C engines.

 

https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/waterrestrictplate.html

 

Easy to do:

 

  • Remove the thermostat & housing
  • Remove the factory brass restrictor plate (I used a main seal/gasket puller for this)
  • Install the new restrictor plate
  • Reinstall a standard thermostat & housing as normal

 

I'm pretty sure (and hoping) that David meant to put that 1/32" hole in the thermostat itself... don't go drilling any new holes in your engine.   

 

And no, there are no weak links in my cooling system in the way of clogged radiator tubes, water pump blockage, etc.... everything is brand new (as of 2013-ish).  I just researched and took care of it before it became an issue, since the summers get wicked hot here in West Texas.  I'm also running .060"-over flat tops, mid-range cam, roller everything, 351C-2V Performer intake w/4bbl 600cfm carb, headers, dual-exhaust w/X-pipe, PS & A/C, and an AOD.  Temps are just fine even on hot days.

 

I also added a nice Moroso overflow bottle, just to make sure it never runs dry.

Eric

mach1sig2.gif

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Does anyone make a filler panel for the big open area from the radiator to the bumper area, fender to fender, this area in the picture?  I had a metal one in my 1972 Javelin AMX, aftermarket of course, and it was nice to hide that open area, and in my case that extra fan (which I may remove once I start to drive the car and see if it is really needed or not, came that way)?  If not I wonder if a shop produced one would there be a market to sell them. 

 

engine-bay-front.jpg

 

Here is the one I made for my car.71081511-2704161269640240-3120680163046588416-n.jpg

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https://www.mpproductsstore.com/19711973-mustang-radiat.html

 

Interesting, wonder if anyone has put this in, would love to see an installed pic

 

Those are nice. I saw one on a car at a show few years ago. There was some pics on another thread on here somewhere.

Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

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We made one 20 years ago for my car but I never installed it.

 

mach-1-2.jpg

 

mach-1.jpg

Too flat, would look better with a bead roller , along the edges perhaps, nowadays, someone could stamp/emboss? a MACH 1 logo on it. It would pop then. I would buy one . ( cool tool holder/snack tray for shows)  ::thumb::

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