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Dropped off my car at an A/C shop today to find out if the compressor and related parts are good or not, it has the original York in it.  Also need to know if it had ever been converted from r12 to 134.   I told the shop that if the compressor is bad to disconnect the lines and I will pull it out, that will give me more room to work on the engine bay, clean, paint, etc.  Then when the time comes I can install a new compressor and have them do the lines, charge or whatever else it needs.  So if it does need to be replaced I will have to decide between an original style, York or go with a Sanden, either way I want r134a as I think it would be easier to maintain down the road.  thoughts??    I have read other posts but still want to ask.

  

 

Thanks

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I dumped the R12 for R134 in the 72 mach that still had OE everything (40 plus yrs old stuff) at the time. It work fine for 10 yrs. Then one day, I decided to do a GOOD THING and replace them old hoses and compressor and the SAID NEEDED condenser made for R134. It worked NO BETTER. It now has a leak or leaks that can't be found even took the evap. out pressure tested. Should have just left everything alone. Lessen learned.

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I dumped the R12 for R134 in the 72 mach that still had OE everything (40 plus yrs old stuff) at the time. It work fine for 10 yrs. Then one day, I decided to do a GOOD THING and replace them old hoses and compressor and the SAID NEEDED condenser made for R134. It worked NO BETTER. It now has a slow leak or leaks that can't be found even took the evap. out pressure tested. Should have just left everything alone. Lessen learned.

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I've seen plenty of old school York (and others) systems converted from R-12 to R-134A.  Of note, my pal Jim originally did his '77 GMC Jimmy's A/C, and you could hang meat inside on a 100-degree West Texas day.  He then went on to convert the system in his 1963 1/2 Galaxie 500 XL, and it works like a champ as well.

 

Unless there's something wrong with the compressor itself, just stick with it (unless you just want a Sanden compressor set-up instead), changing the expansion valve and orifice tube (if equipped).  Once the system is completely purged of the R-12 and holds -30psi vacuum, it should be good to go introducing R-134A into the system.

 

I believe R-12 had some lubricating properties with it that R-134A does not.  Might also need to check into adding some appropriate lubrication [for the compressor internals] to the system when filling with R-134A (PAG Oil, or equivalent).

 

Plenty of resources out there on how to convert R-12 to R-134A.  Good luck!

Eric

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just picked it up from the shop, it had already been converted to 134a but needed a new expansion valve and a full charge. Takes about 10 mins to really cool down but I guess I cannot expect it to preform like one of my modern DD. I think the mechanic (heavy southern accent and I have bad hearing) said it dyed at idle, I thought he meant the car died but I think he means the a/c slows down at idle, mentioned the vacuum canister but this is not an uncommon problem from what I remember from the good old days. One think it takes getting used to are the non-directional vents, again in our modern cars we can direct that cold air to use, with the mustang have to wait till it circulates around.

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Glad to hear it's working out (so far).  I thought the only non-directional adjustable dashboard vent was the center one - the outside vents should be adjustable.  Then again, I didn't have any of mine when I got the car, and the CAA system I went with had a single middle vent that I swapped for a factory one.

Eric

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did not play with the side vent much, it does adjust up and down so it blew cold on my arm. Now that I have the things I wanted fixed beyond my meager talents I can start to take the car apart to do interior, engine bay, rear end (valance, lights, bumper, etc.).

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well it did not last long, just went out and saw one of the hoses had frost on it with a geyser coming out of it from a pinhole.

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now that It is fixed and now broken again, question:  A pin hole leak developed on the way home.  I say on the way home as when I left the shop I drove for 5 mins with the ac full blast and went back to the shop, opened the hood to look around because I was not getting cold quickly.  That is when he advised it takes about 10 mins to really cool down, and he was right as it started to get cold and was fine for the next 15 mins on the way home.  When I was there then and hood open there was not leak but after I got home, about 30 mins later I looked under the hood and saw yellowish frost on the upper hose coming from a pinhole.  This is the hose from the upper part of the evaporator valve to the compressor, then end is in this picture.  Near that hose (note yellow piece of tape) is what I hope is the valve where it gets filled?  I have one of those do-it-yourself R134 cans and that is the only valve that my fitting fits on, although it does not stay locked on.  So....... my question is"  Can I just replace that hose myself, easy off, easy on now that the charge is out of the system?  If so can I use that port to do-it-myself or is it just better to have the shop do the charge (being how much the cans cost anyway)?  If I can replace the hose simply enough at least I can eliminate that cost. 

Trying to figure out which hose this is, it runs from the upper hole of the expansion valve to the upper part of the compressor, is it anywhere with our vendors? I see below NPD has hoses but not this one???? is it an off the shelf complete hose or one that has to be made from blank hose and fittings crimpped on?

 

https://www.npdlink.com/1965-1973-mustang/heating-cooling/air-conditioning-components/hoses-rigid-tubes-valves-and-related?page=2

 

thanks for all the help.

 

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Well, at least you now know why it took 10 minutes to chill out.  Once that's fixed (providing there aren't more), should be GTG!  ::thumb::

Eric

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  • 1 month later...

Well, at least you now know why it took 10 minutes to chill out.  Once that's fixed (providing there aren't more), should be GTG!  ::thumb::

Those lines and fittings look original ,or just old. Now is the time to throw a complete new set of hoses and compressor valves, filter, and then vacuum that sucker down at home!! If it holds 30 inches for 30 min., fill er back up with some 134 and leak dye yourself. 

 

     The sanden will  work much better and are quieter less h.p. loss, unless you want o.e.m. look.

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