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Bad news for the Mach 1


turtle5353
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I found a NOS set of front fenders for $1,200. Trying to get more pics from the seller. Driver side door has a dent so I want some more pics.  But I didn’t think that was a bad price. Since repops  are going for $400-500 a piece. Hopefully the dent isn’t too bad. 

 

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Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

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I would jump on that. It will definitely fit better than any repo and of course it will be a thicker gauge steel too. The small little dent will be easier to fix than trying to fit a repo.

John - 72 Q Code

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That does seem like a good price and you can't beat original metal ... especially fenders ... the repro fenders are hit and miss as far as fitting

 

 

 

 

Make sure there is a sticker inside that fender with the part number or date code stamped in the metal ...

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That does seem like a good price and you can't beat original metal ... especially fenders ... the repro fenders are hit and miss as far as fitting

 

 

 

 

Make sure there is a sticker inside that fender with the part number or date code stamped in the metal ...

Here are some pics Don. Do they look legit to you? They still had Ford brown paper wrapping. 

 

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Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

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That does seem like a good price and you can't beat original metal ... especially fenders ... the repro fenders are hit and miss as far as fitting

 

 

 

 

Make sure there is a sticker inside that fender with the part number or date code stamped in the metal ...

 

I don't know, Man.  Those repop fenders I got from you worked out just fine for me.  ::thumb::

 

But yeah, I'd jump on that deal if I were Kevin, too.  Good luck!

Eric

mach1sig2.gif

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Kevin, the problem with the NOS stuff out there now is a LOT of it was returned to the dealer or distribution center as rejects

The tags are legit ... I don't like the flange in the one pic although I suspect you can hammer / dolly that down OK with your skills while sippin a cold one :D :D :D  OK maybe 2

I suspect that was rejected for the flange

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That does seem like a good price and you can't beat original metal ... especially fenders ... the repro fenders are hit and miss as far as fitting

 

 

 

 

Make sure there is a sticker inside that fender with the part number or date code stamped in the metal ...

 

I don't know, Man.  Those repop fenders I got from you worked out just fine for me.  ::thumb::

 

But yeah, I'd jump on that deal if I were Kevin, too.  Good luck!

I had to make sure you got really good ones ... couldn't risk making MRS 4X4 mad at me   rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl

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That does seem like a good price and you can't beat original metal ... especially fenders ... the repro fenders are hit and miss as far as fitting

 

 

 

 

Make sure there is a sticker inside that fender with the part number or date code stamped in the metal ...

 

I don't know, Man.  Those repop fenders I got from you worked out just fine for me.  ::thumb::

 

But yeah, I'd jump on that deal if I were Kevin, too.  Good luck!

I had to make sure you got really good ones ... couldn't risk making MRS 4X4 mad at me   rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl

 

And THAT, my friend, is why you're the best at what you do.  ::thumb:: ::thumb:: ::thumb::

Eric

mach1sig2.gif

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Those pictures were hard to look at. It’s what we all fear every time we drive our cars.

Last weekend some moron was speeding and cut in front of me between a car in his lane and my car. He missed me by only inches. 

 

Good luck with the repair.

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Kevin, the problem with the NOS stuff out there now is a LOT of it was returned to the dealer or distribution center as rejects

The tags are legit ... I don't like the flange in the one pic although I suspect you can hammer / dolly that down OK with your skills while sippin a cold one :D :D :D  OK maybe 2

I suspect that was rejected for the flange

 

Which picture are you referring to Don? I didn’t notice the flange damage.

Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

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Those pictures were hard to look at. It’s what we all fear every time we drive our cars.

Last weekend some moron was speeding and cut in front of me between a car in his lane and my car. He missed me by only inches. 

 

Good luck with the repair.

 

Mike-  I have a 429 CJ as well, and have had the same thing occur a few times.  Normally I'm just out rumbling around at low speed / low rpm, granny shifting it.  I did my street racing in the early 80's.  Some idiot in what I think was a Lexus SC400 came flying up beside me in a restricted part of the center lane and cut in front of me at the light, almost causing me to hit him.  Wow he sure showed me his hot Japanese iron.  lol  My biggest fear though is the person behind you rolling to a stop while looking down at the phone in their lap.

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Kevin, the problem with the NOS stuff out there now is a LOT of it was returned to the dealer or distribution center as rejects

The tags are legit ... I don't like the flange in the one pic although I suspect you can hammer / dolly that down OK with your skills while sippin a cold one :D :D :D  OK maybe 2

I suspect that was rejected for the flange

 

Which picture are you referring to Don? I didn’t notice the flange damage.

 

The edge flange where it is folded over looks odd

Last pic of inside of fender showing tag ... look at the flange which would meet the door

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  • 2 weeks later...

Got some news back from the insurance today. Their initial estimate is around $18k to repair. But they know that once we tear into it, they will find more damage and the cost to repair will likely go up. So they are trying to decide if its worth it for them to have it repaired or to total it. I was wrong on my original agreed upon value. its $34K not $36K. So if they total it I will get $34K. If i want to buy it back, it will be $5k. So I will get my car back and $29K. What are you guy's thoughts on it?

Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

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My opinion, and again just my opinion. Try to negotiate on the price to get the car back as is down some and take the cash and the car and then get it fixed or fix it yourself. Even at the $5k for the car still a good deal, it would cost more than that for the engine alone.

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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Got some news back from the insurance today. Their initial estimate is around $18k to repair. But they know that once we tear into it, they will find more damage and the cost to repair will likely go up.  So they are trying to decide if its worth it for them to have it repaired or to total it.  I was wrong on my original agreed up value. its $34K not $36K. So if they total it I will get $34K. If i want to buy it back, it will be $5k. So I will get my car back and $29K.  What are you guy's thoughts on it?

 

Not bad. Hopefully that is their starting price for negotiating and you can get them down to $3k or so. However, my question would be, if they agree to repair it, will they pay up to $34k or not?

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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My opinion, and again just my opinion. Try to negotiate on the price to get the car back as is down some and take the cash and the car and then get it fixed or fix it yourself. Even at the $5k for the car still a good deal, it would cost more than that for the engine alone.

 

Yeah that's what i was thinking.  I just built that motor a couple years ago and have atleast $12-$15k in it.

Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

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Got some news back from the insurance today. Their initial estimate is around $18k to repair. But they know that once we tear into it, they will find more damage and the cost to repair will likely go up.  So they are trying to decide if its worth it for them to have it repaired or to total it.  I was wrong on my original agreed up value. its $34K not $36K. So if they total it I will get $34K. If i want to buy it back, it will be $5k. So I will get my car back and $29K.  What are you guy's thoughts on it?

 

Not bad. Hopefully that is their starting price for negotiating and you can get them down to $3k or so. However, my question would be, if they agree to repair it, will they pay up to $34k or not?

 

Yes, once/if they decide to have it repaired they would keep going with repairs up to $34k

Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

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I'd probably take the total and buy the car back. You can do the majority of the work yourself and do some upgrades along the way. Farm out having the frame squared and run with it.

 If they total it, that's probably what i will do.  But it just sucks because now i'm gonna have a reconstructed title.  Which drops value of the car significantly.

Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

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While the hit on the title may be true ... how much of the 29 are you going to have to spend doing a lot of the work yourself

Or you can buy a really nice body 71 -2 F or H code project car and use your interior, drive train, new tires, and all .... so what spend 15 -20 of the 29

Lots of options ... you don't have to fix that body

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Turtle,

So sorry for your loss.

Just a thought of possibility of obtaining another car (with a title) or portion of that is not wrecked and rebuild using the parts from your car, maybe a little more work but the title would not be a reconstruct.

Thanks, Jay

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I know I am a newbie, but I do have something of a finance background and my decision framework would come down to the following questions, for whatever it’s worth:

 

What is the value impact you project, when it’s all repaired, of a salvaged title? I ask because you have to include it in your calculation. Is $34K minus the 5k minus the value reduction of salvage title once it’s repaired greater or less than the cost you think it will be to repair?

 

Would it be better to take the payout, buy back the car, but not repair it... if the reduction in value of a salvage title is more than the cost of a solid project car replacement, I might consider buying a new project and taking all the great items from your damaged car, which are worth far more than $5K and transferring them to a project with a straight frame and clean title. I know that is rather unsentimental, but might make the most sense. You are going to have to paint a new car anyway. $29K minus cost of a new project will leave a lot for the work to combine the cars and repaint, but you also have to ask yourself if you will be doing that yourself or paying someone else.

 

Or is it better to have them just pay you for repairs so you don’t lose the resale value in your title, and you can have someone else do the work. My guess is they will turn off the reimbursement around that $29K at absolute best.

 

So the three open questions are how much does a salvaged title impact the value going forward, how much could you get a good foundation of a project car for in the current environment (preferably one that is a great body but needs a drivetrain and interior ( the opposite of your current car), and how much work do you want to do yourself.

Lazarus

 

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Ha! OMS and Clevelandcoupe just gave me a lesson in the importance of brevity. They both said the same thing I wanted to say, in far fewer words, while I was typing.

Lazarus

 

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Ha!  OMS and Clevelandcoupe  just gave me a lesson in the importance of brevity. They both said the same thing I wanted to say, in far fewer words, while I was typing.

 

A deep dive is welcomed. Hits on some of the finer points. 

 

I guess my decision would have to be based on what I found once the car starts coming apart.

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