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Bad news for the Mach 1


turtle5353
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I'd probably take the total and buy the car back. You can do the majority of the work yourself and do some upgrades along the way. Farm out having the frame squared and run with it.

 If they total it, that's probably what i will do.  But it just sucks because now i'm gonna have a reconstructed title.  Which drops value of the car significantly.

 

I didn't realize PA still issued titles on vehicles that old. 

 

I swore that if I were to do another car, it would come from out west with minimal rust damage. This might be an opportunity for a "new face" in the garage utilizing your drivetrain, and back burner your current car to a fix it whenever status. I'm sure KevKen or Motorcity have something hiding in their warehouses that would suit your fancy.

 

 

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Don’t forget to subtract your deductible, unless it’s 0. So you have 34k agreed value if it’s totaled. But if they fix it then they will cover 75-80% of that I thought. So if the repairs are above 26k ish then they will total it I think. So you’re at 18k initially and it won’t take to much to get to that totaled range. I guess I wouldn’t know what to do. Damn, this just sucks no matter what you do. I guess if they do total it, it’s a great time to buy a car! But I know you put a lot into your car and sure would be tough to let it go. Sorry I’m no help.

John - 72 Q Code

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I'd probably take the total and buy the car back. You can do the majority of the work yourself and do some upgrades along the way. Farm out having the frame squared and run with it.

 If they total it, that's probably what i will do.  But it just sucks because now i'm gonna have a reconstructed title.  Which drops value of the car significantly.

 

I didn't realize PA still issued titles on vehicles that old. 

 

I swore that if I were to do another car, it would come from out west with minimal rust damage. This might be an opportunity for a "new face" in the garage utilizing your drivetrain, and back burner your current car to a fix it whenever status. I'm sure KevKen or Motorcity have something hiding in their warehouses that would suit your fancy.

Back at the start of the thread my first response was dont let them total the car and scar the title. If that isnt a option now then a Cali or Arizona car body using all your old/new car parts thus ending with a clean title. Im sure you will want to do the work.....its in your blood. What ever is decided you will have a nice car again because we have all seen your work. Yell if you need help and the forum will come a run'in.

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I would take the money, buy the car back and find another car, transfer many of your good parts, build the new one up just the way you want. You would probably have money left over and lots of extra parts also. You would then have a clean title, a salvage title hurts the value down the road IMO. My Mach1, which I purchased in February from Ohio for 18k came from Texas but 24 years earlier. Still the only rust were a few tiny spots around the taillights. The shop that did the work could not believe the great condition of the metal on it, so they are out there. I just pulled the carpet up the other day and the same held true for the inside.

 

https://classics.autotrader.com/classic-cars/1972/ford/mustang/100813299

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So sorry to just see this post Kevin

I haven't been on the forum for a while now and decided to check in just now with this the first post I read, not good

As for what to do only you can decide and would be best to first negotiate with your insurance company and try to get it repaired which will save the title

If it were me I would buy back the vehicle and fix it myself in a heartbeat for a couple of reasons, one being I'm not concerned about the title and just want my pride and joy back and two where I live I don't have a choice of replacement vehicles.

Hopefully you can get a good outcome eventually and sounds like your estimator is willing to work with you unlike some of them

Good luck and will watch your progress

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I'd probably take the total and buy the car back. You can do the majority of the work yourself and do some upgrades along the way. Farm out having the frame squared and run with it.

 If they total it, that's probably what i will do.  But it just sucks because now i'm gonna have a reconstructed title.  Which drops value of the car significantly.

 

I didn't realize PA still issued titles on vehicles that old. 

 

PA probably still issues titles for Conestoga wagons.   :chin:   A very backwards state with some of the highest taxes in the nation.

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Thanks for all the replies guys! I did get the final call late yesterday afternoon, they are totaling my car. I tried to get them to fix it but it doesn’t make sense to them financially. I asked about the buy back price and they said it’s going to be around $5k. They use a national database of auctions to determine the price. I tried to get it for less but they wouldn’t budge. They are going to get a hold of me early next week with the final numbers. But I will get to keep the car and I will get a check for $29k and salvage certificate. So if I wanna fix it I will have a reconstructed title. And yes PA sucks! I have done reconstructed titles before and they aren’t too bad to get. Just need to get an enhanced inspection when done. But you have to have receipts for everything and pay taxes to PA for EVERYTHING multiple times!!! Or I may try to find a 71 roller and move my parts onto it. Lots of options out there, just need to sit and let this sink in and make an informed decision. Thanks again for all the replies fellas!!

Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

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Well, if at the end of the day you end up with your car back and a check for $24k, it could have been a lot worse right?

 

True. But the car was insured for $34k. Cost me $5k to get back. So I get the car and $29k.  So it’s not too bad.

Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

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Ya that’s a bummer but not a bad deal either. Like you said it’s time to let this sink in. Might be a blessing in disguise and hopefully you come out ahead in the long run. Plus you didn’t get hurt and have to deal with all of this.

John - 72 Q Code

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Well, if at the end of the day you end up with your car back and a check for $24k, it could have been a lot worse right?

 

True. But the car was insured for $34k. Cost me $5k to get back. So I get the car and $29k.  So it’s not too bad.

To be honest, my friend, come to ca. /az. to pick up a rust free mach, switch all your good parts for a great new car life. Your car gave up her life for you, :angel: think of the swap as a heart transplant, she will always live on in a new body. I am a health care professional, sorry for the medical outlook, as long as you are not injured, that is all that mattered. Long live your mach 2.0!!!

My mach was born pewter/stripe car, your first photos broke my heart, too, memories of my long gone parents, ect. God bless, stevo.

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That does suck on the title,

The convertible I bought out of Grand Rapids was totaled but the insurance company never got the title they just gave the car back to the owner so no title change. It is still a clean title never went to insurance and back to owner. Wonder if they would do that for you? 

I got that Vert for $1,500 and it was a one owner and it beautiful shape. $5,000 sounds high for a total loss sale for that model.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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Thanks for all the replies guys! I did get the final call late yesterday afternoon, they are totaling my car.  I tried to get them to fix it but it doesn’t make sense to them financially.  I asked about the buy back price and they said it’s going to be around $5k. They use a national database of auctions to determine the price. I tried to get it for less but they wouldn’t budge.  They are going to get a hold of me early next week with the final numbers. But I will get to keep the car and I will get a check for $29k and salvage certificate. So if I wanna fix it I will have a reconstructed title. And yes PA sucks! I have done reconstructed titles before and they aren’t too bad to get. Just need to get an enhanced inspection when done. But you have to have receipts for everything and pay taxes to PA for EVERYTHING multiple times!!! Or I may try to find a 71 roller and move my parts onto it. Lots of options out there, just need to sit and let this sink in and make an informed decision. Thanks again for all the replies fellas!!

 

Even if they fixed it, the car fax would show a major repair and that would hurt the value

 

Another poster started MACH 2.0   I like it .... but it is your call

I think the garage gets a lift ::thumb::   and with your skills MACH 2.0 would be BAD ASS ...  decisions decisions :chin: :chin: :chin:

 

How bad is she bent ... pour some water in the drive or street [ if possible ] and slowly roll straight thru it to see how she tracks

Seeing the pictures of both doors out of whack and I think the paint was cracked on the quarters. That would be a hard pull to get it right

Good luck with either decision

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Pity they can't repair it but at least you get it back with all the goodies along with $29K to put into the next one or repair this one

As you say best just to let it sink in for a bit

Hope it turns out for the best

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Thanks for all the replies guys! I did get the final call late yesterday afternoon, they are totaling my car.  I tried to get them to fix it but it doesn’t make sense to them financially.  I asked about the buy back price and they said it’s going to be around $5k. They use a national database of auctions to determine the price. I tried to get it for less but they wouldn’t budge.  They are going to get a hold of me early next week with the final numbers. But I will get to keep the car and I will get a check for $29k and salvage certificate. So if I wanna fix it I will have a reconstructed title. And yes PA sucks! I have done reconstructed titles before and they aren’t too bad to get. Just need to get an enhanced inspection when done. But you have to have receipts for everything and pay taxes to PA for EVERYTHING multiple times!!! Or I may try to find a 71 roller and move my parts onto it. Lots of options out there, just need to sit and let this sink in and make an informed decision. Thanks again for all the replies fellas!!

Very sorry to hear about your situation, I've been following your post.

Thank goodness you have a good insurance company.

I would strip your old car, and build another with good bones.   ::thumb::

 

Will stay tuned,

Heavy Metal

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Thanks for the input fellas! The more I keep looking at cars on Craigslist, eBay, auto trader, Facebook , etc etc. the more I come to realize my car was damn nice. There’s a lot of junk out there for a lot of money! If I reclip my front end, what’s out there for suspension kits?? TCP has a nice one with frame rails, coil overs, rack and pinion, shock tower delete etc etc. Seems like I’m already leaning toward fixing my car. At least I know what I’m starting with.

Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

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Yeah I might be leaning that way as well. You've got a nice pile of cash for the repair, and if you use it sensibly you won't burn it up too quickly. Your built motor likely survived intact. A modernized front suspension sounds interesting. You might even find that a frame machine works out well if you know of a trusted shop. 35+ years ago i knew of old school frame shops with trusted mechanics in my area. Now, not so much, but the modern repair methods might work wonders on that old school iron. I have my '71 429 CJ-R insured with Hagerty for $37.5 K, and this reminds me that I should probably increase it. If you plan on holding on to the car for long after it has been repaired, then you don't need to worry about the PA title or any Car Fax reports. Also, many high-end car owners beat the system with Car Fax anyway by finding the "right" shop that won't report the repair work. So Car Fax isn't really 100% reliable.

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Thanks for the input fellas!  The more I keep looking at cars on Craigslist, eBay, auto trader, Facebook , etc etc. the more I come to realize my car was damn nice. There’s a lot of junk out there for a lot of money!  If I reclip my front end, what’s out there for suspension kits?? TCP has a nice one with frame rails, coil overs, rack and pinion, shock tower delete etc etc.  Seems like I’m already leaning toward fixing my car. At least I know what I’m starting with.

I would recommend you check out Detroit Speed in N.C., they make nice suspension parts. They don’t have parts 71-73 specific but have built several 70 Mustangs so you could probably adapt to work. Good luck with whatever you choose.

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Well, it sounds like you are probably going to fix your car. I think you can without going over the insurance payout. Plus you have a great car to start with, so there won’t be any surprises. And if there was something that you had wanted to fix or redo on it, now you can. I bet you can make it better than it was.

It was kinda funny but when I crashed my car the first thing I thought was oh f*#k, then the second thing I thought was, hey now I can fix my wrongly painted hood and get a new bumper! Lol

John - 72 Q Code

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Thanks for the input fellas!  The more I keep looking at cars on Craigslist, eBay, auto trader, Facebook , etc etc. the more I come to realize my car was damn nice. There’s a lot of junk out there for a lot of money!  If I reclip my front end, what’s out there for suspension kits?? TCP has a nice one with frame rails, coil overs, rack and pinion, shock tower delete etc etc.  Seems like I’m already leaning toward fixing my car. At least I know what I’m starting with.

Which TCP suspension are you looking at with shock tower delete? I can only see one but it is for 64-70, not 71-73.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Thanks for the input fellas!  The more I keep looking at cars on Craigslist, eBay, auto trader, Facebook , etc etc. the more I come to realize my car was damn nice. There’s a lot of junk out there for a lot of money!  If I reclip my front end, what’s out there for suspension kits?? TCP has a nice one with frame rails, coil overs, rack and pinion, shock tower delete etc etc.  Seems like I’m already leaning toward fixing my car. At least I know what I’m starting with.

Which TCP suspension are you looking at with shock tower delete? I can only see one but it is for 64-70, not 71-73.

 

yeah looking at these kits further , all im finding is for 64-70.  They claim you can make them work with 71-73 but it would be nice to find a kit specifically for our cars. Would love to get rid of shock towers, but if not maybe just go with nice set of coilovers and tubular a-arms.  :chin:

Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

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I'd go with an Opentracker or SoT suspension myself. That Mustang II swap stuff is just - meh.

 

yeah the more i look at stuff.... more i find alot of these kits are just overpriced mustang II stuff.

Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

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