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Need Some Help with Passenger Dash Panel

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I bought a new reproduction passenger side dash panel because the chrome on my original one was faded.  I went to put it on and the nuts that fasten it in the back are too big and just slide to the bottom of the stud without gripping.   I have my original fasteners and also the AMK fasteners and both are the same - too big.  Has anyone else had this issue with the reproduction panel and if so, how did you fasten it?   I may have to re-chrome and have my original restored, but it is pretty expensive (about $350) to do that.  I also found that the reproduction piece does not put black paint on the side of the trim which is blacked out on the  original, so I scuffed and painted that correctly.  Below are pictures, looking for some advice on how to install the passenger panel.  [/url]IMG-2258.jpgIMG-2259.jpgIMG-2265.jpgIMG-2266.jpg

 

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Since you cannot see the rear of the panel when installed might try wrapping the studs with electrical tape so that the nuts fit. 

Sucks that they just cannot make them better. It is amazing the cost to re chrome the plastic pieces.

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David

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I know it's tough getting anything right now, but you ought to be able to buy "speed nuts" in different sizes. We have a store locally that sells them in many sizes, but unfortunately closed for now. I know I have a few that are for 1/4" posts.

Not much help to you, but measure the post size and let us know. Someone may just have the right size on hand and can send them to you.


Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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If you have a Grainger near by I think they are still open. They have about every size speed nut you could ever want.


73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

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I had same issue. Went to Lowes and pick up some that fit. They were a little tight so I threaded them on and off a little at a time to cut threads in the studs before putting on all the way.


Kilgon

 

 

"The only dumb question is the one not asked"

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So THIS (that has been an issue for all that use repro) now starts to effect those that in the past "would have never" put Repro on a high dollar restoration !! I"m sure you are just as miffed about using "Lowes" speed nuts (smaller and wrong) as the use of the panel !!!

 

CONSIDER this. Take shrink rap. and build it up. once you test one with an original nut you will know how many to use. Then do them all. Its funny WE ALL KNOW that the "hold" of the original is too tight as you can rarely get a panel off with all intact ! This way you still have the correct hardware!

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I bought a new reproduction passenger side dash panel because the chrome on my original one was faded.  I went to put it on and the nuts that fasten it in the back are too big and just slide to the bottom of the stud without gripping.   I have my original fasteners and also the AMK fasteners and both are the same - too big.  Has anyone else had this issue with the reproduction panel and if so, how did you fasten it?   I may have to re-chrome and have my original restored, but it is pretty expensive (about $350) to do that.  I also found that the reproduction piece does not put black paint on the side of the trim which is blacked out on the  original, so I scuffed and painted that correctly.  Below are pictures, looking for some advice on how to install the passenger panel. 

 

 

Thanks everyone for all the advice.  This gives me some good ideas to try so I don't have to have to pay the price to re-chrome.  I usually don't like using reproduction items, but sometimes they are really nice and include part numbers like the taillight lenses.  I had to paint the black on myself, but the lenses had the original  Ford part numbers and looked really nice.


Thanks from MotorCity Mustang!

http://stores.ebay.com/MotorCity-Mustang

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Plastic shrinks after molding. Therefore a percentage MUST be added (or in some case subtracted) in the mold, to allow for shrinkage. I honestly don't remember the shrink rate for ABS, but if the panel fits well and pretty much matches the exact size of the original, but the speed nut post are too small, then someone forgot or didn't bother to add for shrinkage to them. 

So in your case, you have options, find correct size for the post and screw them on, so they can be removed, or add something like shrink-wrap as Mark suggests.

Good luck with it.


Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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The weatherproof heat shrink, with the adhesive, won't spin on the shaft when you screw a speed nut on, but may be too thick.


 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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Mike in addition to smaller speed nuts

Used candle wax and heat the screws then pre -  thread all of the studs while you have easy access to the back side.

Use a pair if pliers to hold the stud if it gets to tight when making threads.

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Ohio Mustang Supply

440-949-2556

 

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I bought a new reproduction passenger side dash panel because the chrome on my original one was faded.  I went to put it on and the nuts that fasten it in the back are too big and just slide to the bottom of the stud without gripping.   I have my original fasteners and also the AMK fasteners and both are the same - too big.  Has anyone else had this issue with the reproduction panel and if so, how did you fasten it?   I may have to re-chrome and have my original restored, but it is pretty expensive (about $350) to do that.  I also found that the reproduction piece does not put black paint on the side of the trim which is blacked out on the  original, so I scuffed and painted that correctly.  Below are pictures, looking for some advice on how to install the passenger panel. 

 

 

Thanks everyone for all the advice.  This gives me some good ideas to try so I don't have to have to pay the price to re-chrome.  I usually don't like using reproduction items, but sometimes they are really nice and include part numbers like the taillight lenses.  I had to paint the black on myself, but the lenses had the original  Ford part numbers and looked really nice.

 

I tried using the shrink wrap first but it turned out to be too thick and the nut would not fit over it.   I ended up using electrical tape because it stuck best to the stud when wrapped in the correct direction.  The nuts tightened down very well and seated nicely.  I also did what Don suggested on the small screws where the vent bezel goes.  If you don't pre-screw those and hold them tight when you do, they will crack on you if you try and put the vent on without pre-screwing them.  Great advice everyone, and thanks for all the help!!!!


Thanks from MotorCity Mustang!

http://stores.ebay.com/MotorCity-Mustang

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I had all of my panels restored. There is a place near Detroit Metro Airport that did them for under $150 each. The name is Vacuum Orna-Metal Co. They are on Harrison Street in Romulus.

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I had all of my panels restored.  There is a place near Detroit Metro Airport that did them for under $150 each.  The name is Vacuum Orna-Metal Co.  They are on Harrison Street in Romulus.

Perfect, Thanks!  That is right by my warehouse!!


Thanks from MotorCity Mustang!

http://stores.ebay.com/MotorCity-Mustang

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