Power Steering Pump

Hi, I had a leak on my power steering pump.

 I think it was coming from the Pump outer body Rubber seal.  I purchased a Pump gasket replacement seal kit.

Having taken my pump fully apart, I am now in the process of rebuilding it, but I have a couple of questions?  Can anyone tell me the 4 hex screw torque settings inside the pump where the internal pump casing  attaches to the pump body

Thanks.

I will be in garage later can look up. When I did mine I just tightened them.

Hello David, Many thanks.

I have now found the information I needed and thought I would share this as the Youtube Videos do not have this information.

Ford, Thompson Power Steering Pump.

The 4 bolts holding the inner pump body to the cast pump body should be torqued to 28-32 ft-lbs until the housing flange contacts the gasket.

Check the rotor shaft for binding, Place a 3/8-16 Hex head screw into the end of the pump spindle and put a torque wrench on it,  If the torque is more than 15 in-lbs, loosen off the retaining bolts slightly and rotate the rotor shaft, re-tighten bolts and check again for alignment /binding. 

The rear nut holding the outer body to the pump should be torqued to 43-45 ft-lbs 

Info from Chilton 1971  ::thumb::

Pump rebuild O ring service tool  Ford Part Number T69P-3B586-A

I could not find this tool so I made my own.....

The purpose of this tool is to stop the smaller rubber O ring on the upper end of the pump catching in the oil slot on the pump body.  As you tighten down the bolts there is the  possibility of the O ring getting damaged.

1/ First thing I did was degrease the pump body, next I got some masking tape and carefully masked the walls of the oil slot, then put a larger piece of masking tape on the outside of the pump body.



2/ Mixed up some Household 2 part filler and squeezed it through the Oil slot and built it up into a block on the outside of the pump body.

 





3/ When the filler was semi dry, I then trimmed off the excess filler so that it was flush to inner face of the pump body, followed by a final sand (when the filler had fully dried) with some wet/dry paper fine grit so as not to damage the pump body.

  

4/  I then pushed the block of filler out of the slot and removed the masking tape from the oil slot and pump body,

This is what you should end up with  ::thumb::



5/ Using a large adjustable pipe clamp I then fitted it over the new service tool and tightened clamp to hold it in place.

Here is a Parts Diagram to show the amount of gaskets and O ring seals required for the Pump.

I was not happy with the Pump shaft, it had a few wear marks on it so searched  the net to see if I could get a replacement shaft.



the part listed in the diagram is Part number B3559 

I purchased a part on ebay  D8AZ-3B559-A

The part arrived at my home today from the USA but sadly it's the wrong part



post image

As you can see, My shaft has a collar at the bottom of the mainshaft, the replacement part does not.  Its also about 10mm shorter than my original shaft!  

Size Matters  :whistling:

That's the incorrect number for the pump shaft. 71-73 used D0AZ-3B559-A. Just verify the part number against the pump tag.

https://nospartsltd.com/product/doaz3b559a/

Thanks for the information

That's the incorrect number for the pump shaft. 71-73 used D0AZ-3B559-A. Just verify the part number against the pump tag.

https://nospartsltd.com/product/doaz3b559a/

Click to expand...

I'm not sure about the serial plate on my pump?  It reads.....

(Top row).........    HBA        EZ

(Bottom row)....    1  2I  W  77

What do the EZ letters mean?  Are the HBA letters the important ones?

HBA is the model of the Pump, designating the Ford-Thompson unit. EZ is the individual identifier, which would call out specific details of pressure relief setting, reservoir style, etc.

HBA-EZ is a 75-77 Pinto pump, but it still uses the D0AZ-A pump shaft.

:goodpost: :thankyouyellow: :bravo: Thank you again,  this really is the information one needs.

Yet again I find another non stock part on my Johnny Cash "One piece at a time" Junkyard dog.

Good Post there my friend.  :goodpost:

The PS pump is probably the only part I have not yet done or needed to do. I cheated and paid to have mine done.

Now I know where to get the proper info, Thanks guys.

Well having painted the outer body of the pump I decided to rebuild my pump with my  original shaft, but I have now run into a major problem!

The white metal bearing that the shaft runs through is breaking apart  :shootself:

Can a replacement white metal bearing be purchased? 

Thanks.

Never easy is it

This one comes with a new input shaft bushing

http://www.stangerssite.com/FPparts.html

Thank you for the link,I have sent the company an email asking if they will ship to the UK   ::thumb::

Well I got a reply back from the company and they no longer sell the kit with the mainshaft white metal bearing.

He said he  might have some bearings coming in a week or two but he wants to keep them for full refurbishments of his own pumps.

So if anyone knows where else to find one I'm  all ears, I cant put the pump back together with the broken bearing.

Thanks 

Try Dan at Chockostang. He's well respected for his steering gear rebuilds. He might be able to help you out. 

http://www.chockostangclassicmustang.com/

Worst case, time for another pump.

Thanks

Hemikiller said:

Try Dan at Chockostang. He's well respected for his steering gear rebuilds. He might be able to help you out. 

http://www.chockostangclassicmustang.com/

Worst case, time for another pump.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the link,

I emailed the company and they are shipping out a replacement Bush for me.  

International Postage was a killer but better than having to order a replacement pump.

Here's what my lead bush looked like

Update:  Got the new bush today, knocked out the old bush and fitted the new one.  

I now am waiting for my new pulley to turn up.  But at least I have got the Pump assembly re-built.