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Coolant leaks under car


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Is there anybody who experienced coolant leak under the car.

The exhaust manifold is dry, there's no hot engine temp./overheat when running. 

 

It appears that leaking from a little rubber nipple thing however the floor/carpet is dry so I don't think that the heater core is leaking. (The car once was an A/C car but PO removed it. I kept the heater core hooked up.)

 IMG-20200515-145033.jpg

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Wanna enjoy the summer?

 

Put  a teaspoon full of ginger(the spice) in your radiator and drive it around.  It will seal small leaks permanently.

 

Sounds crazy, but trust me.

 

kcmash

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Thanks everybody. You can learn something new every day. :) (I had no idea about that condenser drain before.)

 

I will change the heater core when I'll do the cowl and floors. In the meantime I'm going to bypass it because I need the car (this is the only car I have).

Technical question: After doing the bypass you have to bleed the system. Well my radiator has an outlet for reservoir which is hooked up so it's not a compeletly closed system. In this case do you really need to bleed it or it'll 'bleed itself'?

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Wanna enjoy the summer?

 

Put  a teaspoon full of ginger(the spice) in your radiator and drive it around.  It will seal small leaks permanently.

 

Sounds crazy, but trust me.

 

kcmash

 

I don't have the A/C hooked up, PO has removed the compressor too. 

I live in Florida but never had an A/C car. :D My first car was a '70 Galaxie. That one felt like a slow cooker.

You just had to rub yourself with bbq rub and you're done. The Mustang is surprisingly 'cool' since it's quite smaller.

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with by passing the core u should not have lost much coolant. so a 5 or 10 mile drive then let cool and ck the rad and add if needed. I would cut the water pump hose and connect it to the intake. that will keep drainage to a min.

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with by passing the core u should not have lost much coolant. so a 5 or 10 mile drive then let cool and ck the rad and add if needed. I would cut the water pump hose and connect it to the intake. that will keep drainage to a min.

 

I will replace the heater core later so wouldn't be a good idea to unhook the two hoses at the firewall (If I wouldn't cut the hoses I can still use them when I put the new core in.) and hook them together with a bypass U hose?

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with by passing the core u should not have lost much coolant. so a 5 or 10 mile drive then let cool and ck the rad and add if needed. I would cut the water pump hose and connect it to the intake. that will keep drainage to a min.

 

I will replace the heater core later so wouldn't be a good idea to unhook the two hoses at the firewall (If I wouldn't cut the hoses I can still use the hoses when I put the new core in.) and hook them together with a bypass U hose?

 

I had the same problem & chose not to pull the dash apart & replace heater core.  To answer your last question:  I got a 5/8" 90 degree brass elbow from local parts store and connected each hose up the this.  The coolant flow stays the same and hoses are there for future use as you suggest.  The join is tucked under the firewall to shock tower brace so totally out of sight.   You will loose some coolant in the process but hold the hoses above the engine and this will be minimal.  Check the level as normal after hot / cold cycle.    Problem solved ( in the short term ) 

Have fun.

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with by passing the core u should not have lost much coolant. so a 5 or 10 mile drive then let cool and ck the rad and add if needed. I would cut the water pump hose and connect it to the intake. that will keep drainage to a min.

 

I will replace the heater core later so wouldn't be a good idea to unhook the two hoses at the firewall (If I wouldn't cut the hoses I can still use the hoses when I put the new core in.) and hook them together with a bypass U hose?

 

I had the same problem & chose not to pull the dash apart & replace heater core.  To answer your last question:  I got a 5/8" 90 degree brass elbow from local parts store and connected each hose up the this.  The coolant flow stays the same and hoses are there for future use as you suggest.  The join is tucked under the firewall to shock tower brace so totally out of sight.   You will loose some coolant in the process but hold the hoses above the engine and this will be minimal.  Check the level as normal after hot / cold cycle.    Problem solved ( in the short term ) 

Have fun.

 

Damn I totally forgot to check a simple brass elbow instead of a U hose and two fittings what I already ordered. That'd mean less components.

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