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Classic Auto Air Question

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Correct - but you can easily swap a 3-groove crank pulley just the same.  That's one of the 4 pieces of the puzzle (A/C compressor, factory idler pulley assembly, 3-groove crank pulley, and adapter bracket - and a belt, of course).  I pulled mine from an A/C equipped parts car (but no A/C or idler pulley available - they must've forgotten the crank pulley).

Check with Don at OMS to see if he's got one to offer, find one from a parts car, or check ebay... otherwise, CAA has them for sale (for JUST $150 - geez, they're proud of those things).


Eric

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5 hours ago, 71coop said:

FWIW - I’m running mine without that bracket and on the PS/water pump pulleys. I gave the kit for a heater-only car - no issues so far. It cools my interior well.

That's encouraging!  I installed mine, charged it up, and struggled finding the right belt set-up (with idler pulley, et al).  Now that I have all the components, it's too dang hot to work on it (triple-digits for the foreseeable future in West Texas) and I've gotten a bit lazy over the years since I pretty much just hop in the car on weekends only every now and then.  I have so many little nit-noid things to do to mine, but finding that optimal time (and pleasant temperatures) to work on it when I'm not actually busy with something else is a major challenge.

Even so - I lost my calibration card at some point, and haven't really chased down a new one yet.  CAA said they'd send me a new one for $35 (Geez!), but then also slipped that it's 'green,' not 'red' like I thought.  Time to go looking for a 'green' one this time, I guess.

I know... first world problems. 😉


Eric

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I bought the bracket to add the Sanden compressor from here:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/162555007071?ul_noapp=true

 

Since I have the steering cooler, I made my own brackets to hold the steering cooler above the Sanden compressor.


20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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I figured it was worth making a few notes on my installation experience, for anyone curious in the future.  The installation was pretty straightforward, but the instructions from CAA are vague in some areas and downright inaccurate in others.  It wasn't all that hard to improvise.  Here are a few tips:

1.  You do not need to pull the whole dash.  You do need to remove the top of the dash, glove box door/insert, passenger kick panel, and center console.  Speedo panel optional, I left it in place, but it would give you more room to work with for the driver's side duct.  I recommend pulling the passenger seat also, as it will give you more room to work with.  This is especially important when removing the factory heater box.

2.  While you are back there, run the orange wire loom for the heater valve through the firewall.  It's also a good spot to run your own wire out to the engine bay which will eventually connect to the high pressure switch.  The wires on the switch itself are not nearly long enough to reach, so you need your own wire

3.  Before installing the CAA heater box, install the drip tube and install the defrost ducts to the correct ports on box.  Much easier to fish the drip tube out the firewall into the engine bay than vice versa.  With the defrost ducts, It's very hard to reach those ports once the box is installed with the dash in place.

4.  You can *barely* reach the drivers vent with the supplied ducting.  You also have to end up using one of the ports marked for the center section.  Not a big deal, since they all shoot out air the same.  But it won't reach if you use the designated port.  The side vent adapters supplied are also way to big.  Literally only one side will mount.  Move both clips to the outside edge and mount to the factory vent.  The ducting will pull it and keep them securely in place.  The center adapter was too small.  I had to cut it on the side to get it to mate up.

5.  I tapped into the brown wire with orange stripe which went to the original heater switch for power.  It is connected directly to the fuse box, 30A if you had factory air.  CAA calls for a 20A fuse, you can easily swap it out.

Well, those were the main issues.  If I think of anything else, I will update this post.

Thanks!

 

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Jason (71 Mach 1, 351C 4V, 4 Spd. Toploader, Grabber Blue)

 

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After all, I may have to do the CAA conversion. I was not looking forward to pulling the evaporator and heater block, but I have no choice if I want cold air.


20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Old Air doesn't offer replacement factory style HVAC units?

If you do go with the CAA, once you get the old HVAC out, the Perfect Fit HVAC unit should go in quite easily (it's a bit smaller, actually).  I'm not sure what kind (if any) adapters they might have for the factory ducting, but the flexi-tubes should be easy enough to run.  Recommend pulling off the dash pad and cover to help with the installation.  I installed mine when I had no windshield yet, and before I reinstalled the dashboard, so it was super easy for me.

If you do go that route, I would recommend getting one of their control units - it'll be a direct plug-n-play installation, as opposed to installing a set of slider-adapters for the factory style controls, then having to calibrate them before first use (DO NOT LOSE THE LITTLE GREEN PLUG-IN CALIBRATION THINGIE FOR THE CONTROL UNIT!!  Ask me how I know).

Hope this helps.


Eric

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