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I've been curious about which brand of oil filter is best for our cars. Sifting through all the advertising hype and them deciding what to buy is mind blowing. The more one looks, the more one's mind get confused. What I found was that there are only a few manufacturers of oil filters and unfortunately that list is not totally up to date. Companies get bought and sold constantly so it's hard to keep up with who owns who. The main players seem to be Champion Labs, Honeywell, Dana/WIX and Purolator. That list may have changed since it was published. For example, Champion Labs make (or made) AC Delco, Bosch, Deutsch, STP, K&N Mobil 1. Honeywell; Fram, Pennzoil, Quaker State. Purolator; Bosch, Motorcraft, Powerflo, Proline, Purolator. Dana/WIX; Carquest, NAPA, WIX. Again, this list may not be as it is today as it was complied in 2008 and the latest I was able to find. As for the best, Royal Purple was on top, followed by WIX, NAPA. The Fram line surprised me, not the filters they once were. The Motorcraft FL1A was about 5th on the list rated at 93% at 20 microns.

As I typically have used Motorcraft for looks as well as being a good filter, I decided to cut apart the filter I just removed to see just what was inside and if there was any evidence of metal particles. I will admit, this was not done very scientifically as I basically just cut it open with shears. I could have washed it out through a coffee filter, but instead just used a paper towel and magnet. Happy to say I found no sign of anything foreign. Here are some pics. The filter was well constructed, but the pleats could be better spaced.

 

 

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Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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Hmmm, very interesting. I had my lifters fail after 1500 miles on an engine rebuild. When I cut my filter open it sure didn’t look as good as this. I wish I would have taken a picture of it. Anyway, the filter looked really fuzzy, almost like it was kinda coming apart. I am using the made in USA Wix filter from now on.

John - 72 Q Code

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Back in the day I used too seriously street race a 70 Boss 302. I was running about 70 lbs of oil pressure. I had problems with the std FL1 filter bursting after a 10,000 RPM run. I didn't even know it existed but I had a very helpful Ford parts man who told me I wasn't running the right filter. He ordered me about a dozen FL1-HP filters for the Boss. Problem solved. The FL1-High Performance had a heavier casing.

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John, from what I found out, the WIX and NAPA GOLD are almost identical made by Dana/WIX (according to the info at hand) I was going to swap to a NAPA Gold, but the local NAPA is still closed. After seeing that the FL1A had done it's job, I'm happy to run that for this year. I only drive on average 1500 miles anyway.

M9Powell;  70 psi oil pressure is pretty close to what my engine runs at, but I don't go much over 5500 rpm either.  Gleaning from what I found, it seems that as is typical when one company buys out another, products get cheapened and quality drops. Metal thickness would be one of the first to be reduced. I found that metal thickness varied even within a manufacturers different brands.  Buyer beware! 

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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Is there a link to the list? I am surprised and happy to see Royal Purple first. That's the filter I have been using since I stroked the engine. However, now I am going to be switching to a WIX 51268 with TMeyer's nipple adapter. This filter offers almost the same micron rating but with double the flow rate than the standard WIX 51515. So in theory it should offer less flow resistance.

https://www.tmeyerinc.com/product/oil-filter-adapter/

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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1 hour ago, tony-muscle said:

Is there a link to the list? I am surprised and happy to see Royal Purple first. That's the filter I have been using since I stroked the engine. However, now I am going to be switching to a WIX 51268 with TMeyer's nipple adapter. This filter offers almost the same micron rating but with double the flow rate than the standard WIX 51515. So in theory it should offer less flow resistance.

https://www.tmeyerinc.com/product/oil-filter-adapter/

I'm going to go this route as well. 

Chris - BIG RED MACH 1

Born in '73 - Drive a '73

Former U.S. Army 63B10-H8

1st Infantry Division - The Big Red One

 

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While we're on the subject of oil, can I break forum etiquette and politely hijack for a moment?

Am I the only one who when he shuts down his Cleveland it sounds like there's a dang rainstorm going on in the oil pan? I've never had a car that is so loud with oil returning to the pan. I don't know how long it lasts, but it seriously sounds like it's raining in there. I've just never heard that on any other car I've owned, driven or worked on. It's pretty dang loud. 

Edited by Big Red Mach 1

Chris - BIG RED MACH 1

Born in '73 - Drive a '73

Former U.S. Army 63B10-H8

1st Infantry Division - The Big Red One

 

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7 hours ago, Stanglover said:

John, from what I found out, the WIX and NAPA GOLD are almost identical made by Dana/WIX (according to the info at hand) I was going to swap to a NAPA Gold, but the local NAPA is still closed. After seeing that the FL1A had done it's job, I'm happy to run that for this year. I only drive on average 1500 miles anyway.

M9Powell;  70 psi oil pressure is pretty close to what my engine runs at, but I don't go much over 5500 rpm either.  Gleaning from what I found, it seems that as is typical when one company buys out another, products get cheapened and quality drops. Metal thickness would be one of the first to be reduced. I found that metal thickness varied even within a manufacturers different brands.  Buyer beware! I

 Well this was back in the 70s & both were Autolite or Motorcraft anyway FORD filters. According to my parts man the Boss called for the FL1-HP

 

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I just checked the FL1-HP is still sold by Ford Racing. 200 PSI burst strength 💪. I wouldn't use a std FL1 on anything making over 40 PSI. It's kinda pricey over $20.

Edited by M9Powell
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I'll try to find and link the info mentioned. Good help and replies from all.

Big Red, mine also makes your "raining" sound, but only for a short time. I never gave it a thought, just hot oil draining back to the pan. 

With the new format, I'm not sure how to reply to each individual as we could before, but like all things new, takes time to figure out.

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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So, I was going over some of the many articles online about oil filters. Most really do not relate to the equivalent of the Motorcraft FL1A  or similar, but the information may be useful. There is so much that seems to contradict one from another and that just adds to the confusion. I guess it's take what is relevant  to out cars needs and dump the rest  except maybe for your daily driver.

Here are some links to articles I found interesting, but like I said, there is so much out there, you may want to look through for yourself.

10 Best Oil Filters (June. 2020) - Buyer's Guide and Reviews

Engine Oil Filter Study

3 Best Oil Filters (2020) - The Drive

The Best Oil Filters For Your Car (Buying Guide) 2020

Please add to or post your opinions.

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Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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Thank you. I thought that your second link to the University of Central Texas in Austin was the best. Very good article and scientific. Unfortunately they didnt test Royal Purple. Wix filters get consistently good reviews so that will continue being my option.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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8 minutes ago, tony-muscle said:

Thank you. I thought that your second link to the University of Central Texas in Austin was the best. Very good article and scientific. Unfortunately they didnt test Royal Purple. Wix filters get consistently good reviews so that will continue being my option.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
 

Tony, you're welcome. Glad some of it was useful.

As mentioned, unfortunately a lot of the information on the net is quite old as these companies change hands almost as often as I change underwear. The only difference is my underwear is consistently good!!  From all I found that is current, the WIX and Napa Gold are pretty much the same quality. The Royal Purple I think is the only one made by an independent company, they make there own, so they mandate the quality. 

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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I have often been curious about which oil filter is best.  Cut apart a few myself over the years and read a few articles on the subject as well.  So good points are brought up here.  With that said I'll add my two cents worth for that matter.  

1) The design as well as the construction are naturally the heart of any filter.  One of the features the manufactures like to point out is the by pass feature.  This is suppose to "kick-in" and allow the oil to flow back to the pan in the event of the filter getting plugged up for any reason.  It seems that there are to very basic designs; one uses a formed piece of metal that will flex to allow the flow path to open.  The second is the use of an actual spring like in a WIX filter.  Having designed springs for a hydraulics company, I would prefer an actual spring.

2) The use of a flat external rare earth magnet is cheap insurance and can be transferred from filter to filter when you change your oil.  I recently put a manget in my transmission oil pan when I changed the seal and o-ring.  The key here is using a rare earth magnet.  It will not loose its magnetic qualities as fast as other types.

Mac

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8 minutes ago, Mac said:

I have often been curious about which oil filter is best.  Cut apart a few myself over the years and read a few articles on the subject as well.  So good points are brought up here.  With that said I'll add my two cents worth for that matter.  

1) The design as well as the construction are naturally the heart of any filter.  One of the features the manufactures like to point out is the by pass feature.  This is suppose to "kick-in" and allow the oil to flow back to the pan in the event of the filter getting plugged up for any reason.  It seems that there are to very basic designs; one uses a formed piece of metal that will flex to allow the flow path to open.  The second is the use of an actual spring like in a WIX filter.  Having designed springs for a hydraulics company, I would prefer an actual spring.

2) The use of a flat external rare earth magnet is cheap insurance and can be transferred from filter to filter when you change your oil.  I recently put a manget in my transmission oil pan when I changed the seal and o-ring.  The key here is using a rare earth magnet.  It will not loose its magnetic qualities as fast as other types.

Mac

Mac, no that is not two cents worth, it's worth much more than that. Very good points you bring up. Thanks for adding to the post.

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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I have read about those magnets. Are there any disadvantages for using them? Will the metal now favor the perimeter of the filter and create other issues? Just thinking!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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8 hours ago, tony-muscle said:

I have read about those magnets. Are there any disadvantages for using them? Will the metal now favor the perimeter of the filter and create other issues? Just thinking!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
 

Don't let those magnets get close to your valuable 8 track tapes!

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  • 1 month later...

Like everything here it is an opinion. I have never been a big promoter of oil change and filter. I have driven over 2,000,000 miles with no engine failures..... I had a friend that bought a new Ford Ranger and drove over 160,000 miles and never changed the oil just added. He did change the filter. Our USN has ships that have been running for 20 years with the same oil just filtered. We have been told what to do not what is needed. My current F-150 I bought new. I do not follow an oil change by mileage. When a quart low I add. When a quart low again I change. It has 305,000 miles on it and not issues. Of course the oil companies want you to change oil often money in their pockets but not needed for sure. A filter is cheap oil is not. How many of you oil changers have never had a failure. Failures are due to over rev in most cases nothing to do with oil.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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1 hour ago, Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs said:

Like everything here it is an opinion. I have never been a big promoter of oil change and filter. I have driven over 2,000,000 miles with no engine failures..... I had a friend that bought a new Ford Ranger and drove over 160,000 miles and never changed the oil just added. He did change the filter. Our USN has ships that have been running for 20 years with the same oil just filtered. We have been told what to do not what is needed. My current F-150 I bought new. I do not follow an oil change by mileage. When a quart low I add. When a quart low again I change. It has 305,000 miles on it and not issues. Of course the oil companies want you to change oil often money in their pockets but not needed for sure. A filter is cheap oil is not. How many of you oil changers have never had a failure. Failures are due to over rev in most cases nothing to do with oil.

David, as you say, a matter of opinion. To some extent I agree with you. If oil broke down that much, it wouldn't get recycled and re-refined and sold as an "off brand' oil. Personally, I do like to change the oil and filter each spring, but that's MY choice. I do not use synthetic oil in these motors, to me, that is a waste of money. Actually it burns me that a barrel of oil at the well head cost say 40 dollars, but a 5 (US) quart jug of 10W30 cost 35 bucks (in Canada). Can you say "Profit Margin"!

My intent with this post was to discuss oil filters and their pros and cons and not so much about whether one should or should not change the oil.

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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53 minutes ago, Stanglover said:

David, as you say, a matter of opinion. To some extent I agree with you. If oil broke down that much, it wouldn't get recycled and re-refined and sold as an "off brand' oil. Personally, I do like to change the oil and filter each spring, but that's MY choice. I do not use synthetic oil in these motors, to me, that is a waste of money. Actually it burns me that a barrel of oil at the well head cost say 40 dollars, but a 5 (US) quart jug of 10W30 cost 35 bucks (in Canada). Can you say "Profit Margin"!

My intent with this post was to discuss oil filters and their pros and cons and not so much about whether one should or should not change the oil.

Clearly you have not worked in the oil and gas industry to realize the capital spent to take a barrel of oil to a quart of oil.

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11 hours ago, EdM said:

Clearly you have not worked in the oil and gas industry to realize the capital spent to take a barrel of oil to a quart of oil.

Well, I worked as a Deep Sea Diver on oil rigs back in the early 70's, does that count? End of discussion.

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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