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I actually started this a couple months ago and got off track because of other projects but my original steering wheel was broken at the 12:00, 3, 6 and 9:00 positions all the way around. I used a dremel tool to clean the cracks up some and got some epoxy that I could mold like clay and filled the cracks. A couple days later, I sanded it real good and primed it, then re-sanded it a few times until I was happy that the crack were filled and level.  Primed it with rattle can primer and now need to paint black.  Does anyone know of a good match rattle can that would not be too shiny or too dull?  Thanks.

 

Tom

Steering Wheel.jpg

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Yes, I’m doing the same to my original wheel too. I was going to go with the Krylon satin black or the matte black Krylon. I have heard that both look great. I guess it would be up to you which one you like best.


John - 72 Q Code

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Thanks Jpaz, I just don't want it to be to shiny. I am thinking about trying the black trim color that I have for SEM. That looks great but I don't know how durable it will be on a steering wheel.  I did try the krylon black an it was too shiny, right now, I think it was satin,  but honestly can't remember.  I don't think it was matte black though. May try the matte black.

 

Tom

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I think someone on here used the matte black to refinish the center gauge panel. The pics of it looked really nice. I’m sure the SEM paint would look good too as long as it isn’t gloss.


John - 72 Q Code

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3 hours ago, jpaz said:

I think someone on here used the matte black to refinish the center gauge panel. The pics of it looked really nice. I’m sure the SEM paint would look good too as long as it isn’t gloss.

Might have been me. Pretty happy with the matte black.

IMG_20200314_143114_1.jpg

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Came out looking great Galucha. I used the SEM black trim spray on my center console. I scrubbed the stainless down as it was all ratted up to begin with and now it is all flat black.

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I would use an epoxy paint as it will be more durable and resistant to  the constant handling a steering wheel undergoes.  Great job!

 


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"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!

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I did two in past month. One had over 1" of the wheel missing. I used the JB Weld putty stick with steel in it. I took all the way down to the metal core. I roughed it up with bedding files used on guns. After I pushed the JB in I would like hammer it with a round screw driver shaft to hammer into the voids. I let it sit over night then sanded and then went over the small imperfections with bondo. I sanded down to a 500 grit and primed with sand-able primer. Let set several days. I sanded again with 500 then I use black epoxy appliance paint. The wheels were actually pretty shiny when new they were never dull. You cannot get good pics or I can't. It does take some time to reshape the finger grips and if there are damaged areas where the grooves are a hack saw blade helps. I used a stainless wire brush to clean the grooves out good and used folded paper and yes I sanded each groove. 
I just wanted to see if I could do it. Took to my friend that restores cars and he could not find the repairs. I tossed in a picture of my 1950 Ford that has not been restored. That steering wheel is very shiny has 16,000 miles. I was also going to do one with leather cover like 73 option but the guy that use to sell the loose covers is not on Ebay anymore. I can buy leather local but working on all the small parts for my Q vert build. Filling boxes with finished stretch wrapped parts. 

I put on my 70's rock and just zone out and 6 hours are gone in an instant. 

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When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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Nice job David, I have to find some time to get back to mine, it is about 90% complete now but I want to get it the other 10%, just have to find the time.

 

Tom

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