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Trevynd

71 429 Mach 1 restoration part 2

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Great job.  Glad to see your are making progress.  Take your time and do it right the first time.  Nothing worse than having to try to redo something after the car is done.   I'm looking forward to your next video. 

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Kilgon

 

 

"The only dumb question is the one not asked"

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I must say, the floor didn't appear all that bad based on what I saw in the video.  You sure you need to cut out and install that entire section?  You might be able to get away with cutting out and patching just a few sections here and there.

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Jason (71 Mach 1, 351C 4V, 4 Spd. Toploader, Grabber Blue)

 

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20 minutes ago, trillizo_y_uno said:

I must say, the floor didn't appear all that bad based on what I saw in the video.  You sure you need to cut out and install that entire section?  You might be able to get away with cutting out and patching just a few sections here and there.

 You know that’s funny you mention that, I may be able to get away with it because like you mentioned it wasn’t as bad as I thought. I suppose I can wait till after blasting to see how bad it truly is. Maybe just patch instead if need be

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3 hours ago, Kilgon said:

Great job.  Glad to see your are making progress.  Take your time and do it right the first time.  Nothing worse than having to try to redo something after the car is done.   I'm looking forward to your next video. 

 Thanks! I’m just sort of learning as I go and doing my best to get this thing done right. But overall I’m loving every step. I’ll continue filming and sharing! Thanks for watching 

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41 minutes ago, Trevynd said:

 You know that’s funny you mention that, I may be able to get away with it because like you mentioned it wasn’t as bad as I thought. I suppose I can wait till after blasting to see how bad it truly is. Maybe just patch instead if need be

I think it is in your best interest to keep as much original metal as possible.  See what things look like after you get to it with a sand blaster or wire wheel.  If you only have a few small sections that are bad, I'd just cut out patches from the new panel.  Is that car factory AC?  Reason I ask, it seems only the passenger floor is bad.

In my case, my car was factory AC.  The driver's side floor was mint, and the passenger floor was horrible.  I had to do a full passenger pan, front to back.  You are probably also aware, but the reason the floors rot out is the rusted cowl vents/hat.  You will probably need a plan to address that at some point.


Jason (71 Mach 1, 351C 4V, 4 Spd. Toploader, Grabber Blue)

 

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17 minutes ago, trillizo_y_uno said:

I think it is in your best interest to keep as much original metal as possible.  See what things look like after you get to it with a sand blaster or wire wheel.  If you only have a few small sections that are bad, I'd just cut out patches from the new panel.  Is that car factory AC?  Reason I ask, it seems only the passenger floor is bad.

In my case, my car was factory AC.  The driver's side floor was mint, and the passenger floor was horrible.  I had to do a full passenger pan, front to back.  You are probably also aware, but the reason the floors rot out is the rusted cowl vents/hat.  You will probably need a plan to address that at some point.

Man you are right on the money yes it is AC and yes the drivers side is all mint and clean. And yes I was looking at the cowl I’ll def do some more investigating 

hopefully it isn’t too bad but ya never know till ya get in there

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14 minutes ago, Trevynd said:

Man you are right on the money yes it is AC and yes the drivers side is all mint and clean. And yes I was looking at the cowl I’ll def do some more investigating 

hopefully it isn’t too bad but ya never know till ya get in there

Honestly, you can probably do a decent cowl repair from the bottom, now that you removed the factory heater box.  In my case, I replaced the floor years ago and didn't address the cowl until recently, when I installed the Classic Auto Air system.  Since that system blocks off the cowl vent anyway, I just cut out all the cancer from the bottom and welded in a good metal patch closing it all off.


Jason (71 Mach 1, 351C 4V, 4 Spd. Toploader, Grabber Blue)

 

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Posted (edited)

Need to be careful if you try to repair the cowl from the bottom.  Need to thoroughly  inspect the entire bottom.   I took the top of my cowl off and found several pin holes and a thin area on the drivers side also.  I patched those and then striped and redid the entire bottom and top.   As you can see there is a lot of rust on the under side of the top section also.  If you miss those types of spots not only will you have issue in the future but the added work could be costly.   If you are going to try to patch from the bottom I would take a strong light and slide it inside the cowl and look under the bottom side of it for any holes.  I would also take a mirror and try to see what shape the underside of the top is in.   And yes it is a lot of work but worth it.

Top of cowl.

20180906_182501.thumb.jpg.af90c89405212ede64e644c504e479c7.jpg 

Can't see them but had small holes on the driver side also. 

20180906_182505.thumb.jpg.0698aaf488dc37ce19ff5519c1f0ea26.jpg

Edited by Kilgon

Kilgon

 

 

"The only dumb question is the one not asked"

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4 hours ago, Kilgon said:

Need to be careful if you try to repair the cowl from the bottom.  Need to thoroughly  inspect the entire bottom.   I took the top of my cowl off and found several pin holes and a thin area on the drivers side also.  I patched those and then striped and redid the entire bottom and top.   As you can see there is a lot of rust on the under side of the top section also.  If you miss those types of spots not only will you have issue in the future but the added work could be costly.   If you are going to try to patch from the bottom I would take a strong light and slide it inside the cowl and look under the bottom side of it for any holes.  I would also take a mirror and try to see what shape the underside of the top is in.   And yes it is a lot of work but worth it.

Top of cowl.

20180906_182501.thumb.jpg.af90c89405212ede64e644c504e479c7.jpg 

Can't see them but had small holes on the driver side also. 

20180906_182505.thumb.jpg.0698aaf488dc37ce19ff5519c1f0ea26.jpg

 Man I think that is quite a bit worse than mine, which I’m grateful for. Ill get a little better idea and look at it tonight. I’m also removing the windshield and rear window and that should really help open up area to check out. 
 

 

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47 minutes ago, Trevynd said:

 Man I think that is quite a bit worse than mine, which I’m grateful for. Ill get a little better idea and look at it tonight. I’m also removing the windshield and rear window and that should really help open up area to check out. 
 

 

Here is how it looked from the outside.

20180823_150547.thumb.jpg.608ef9bbb8200c61b647d5465d3b7368.jpg

 


Kilgon

 

 

"The only dumb question is the one not asked"

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Be Careful with your dis assembly!

If that is a true 429 4 speed car, you have a high end VIN.  I noticed a lot of comments you made about "I've got new metal, so I'll just replace it"  If you have the original sheetmetal with proper date codes, you can only keep value to the car.

Watch the seat risers too.  Not sure if they are reproducing the fastback seat risers yet or not.

 

kcmash

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2 hours ago, kcmash said:

Be Careful with your dis assembly!

If that is a true 429 4 speed car, you have a high end VIN.  I noticed a lot of comments you made about "I've got new metal, so I'll just replace it"  If you have the original sheetmetal with proper date codes, you can only keep value to the car.

Watch the seat risers too.  Not sure if they are reproducing the fastback seat risers yet or not.

 

kcmash

 Yes definitely understand the value of keeping this as OG as possible! I’ll take a closer look before I cut stuff out and I already have a seat riser on the way so we should be good there. However I have the old one saved too

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3 hours ago, Kilgon said:

Here is how it looked from the outside.

20180823_150547.thumb.jpg.608ef9bbb8200c61b647d5465d3b7368.jpg

 

Man, deceiving indeed

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Thanks for the video!  I really enjoy seeing someone having some fun and being constructive at the same time! Give us some more Please :-) 

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11 hours ago, machattack said:

Thanks for the video!  I really enjoy seeing someone having some fun and being constructive at the same time! Give us some more Please :-) 

You got it!! Glad you enjoy. I filmed removal of the windows yesterday! 
I should have another episode in a week or so 

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On 7/29/2020 at 10:43 AM, trillizo_y_uno said:

I must say, the floor didn't appear all that bad based on what I saw in the video.  You sure you need to cut out and install that entire section?  You might be able to get away with cutting out and patching just a few sections here and there.

Decided to cut out the worst of it tonight 

69579C00-AA59-4B2D-8396-DAD6051070C0.jpeg

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7 hours ago, Trevynd said:

Decided to cut out the worst of it tonight 

69579C00-AA59-4B2D-8396-DAD6051070C0.jpeg

Nice, you should be easily able to patch in that same section from the new pan.  Based on how nice your floor looks overall, I'd say your cowl probably isn't that bad either.  No doubt there are some holes in there, most likely right around the hat area.  If it's not too bad, it would be a good time to see if you can repair it from the bottom.


Jason (71 Mach 1, 351C 4V, 4 Spd. Toploader, Grabber Blue)

 

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A good blaster can clean off the seam sealer

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On 7/29/2020 at 11:17 PM, kcmash said:

If that is a true 429 4 speed car, you have a high end VIN.  I noticed a lot of comments you made about "I've got new metal, so I'll just replace it"  If you have the original sheetmetal with proper date codes, you can only keep value to the car.

 

This^^^

Unfortunately you have a car that that will retain more value if you repair and patch the pieces you have vs. replace. Its way more work, but for an example, that PS seat riser date code is irreplaceable.

Also, I would consider hard plastic scrapers- I used a regular old putty knife and got overzealous and you can see each scrape through the primer as the corner of the blade deforms the metal. Maybe you have a defter touch but might save you some extra metal finishing.

Great score on the car! 

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