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Hi, is there anyone in the general area of Quakertown, PA  that knows where i can get gas without ethanol?  i know the Wawa up by I80 has it

but that is a little too far to go for gas.  Thanks for the help.

BTW, for those of you who were helping me with the idling/stumbling problem, whoever said vacuum leak wins, every carburetor gasket was leaking.

rebuilt the carb and it runs fine now.

Thomas 

 

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I got some pics of the cooler install and the one I used. I was able to fab up two brackets one mounted to the radiator support and the other goes to the center grill and hood latch bracket. They both

I have been using mid grade E-10 for many years with no ill effects. I probably drive mine as much or more than anyone on this site at 7 to 10k a year. That admittedly may help. The only modification

Actually, the engine bay is much more quiet, but the exhaust itself sounds meaner.  Nice trade, I would say.

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Along with the non ethanol gas I use the Lucas gas additive to replace the lead in the gas. My 351 C is bored .050" over with flat top pistons, cam, MSD, 2-V heads withe 4-V performer intake. Automatic, AC with stock Ford radiator. I have no issues with over heat in 90 deg. + weather with AC. I do run a 195 deg thermostat made for the Cleveland and the stock baffle in the block. I did put a Hayden fan cooled transmission cooler on and took the transmission lines out of the radiator.
Usually a Sunoco station has non ethanol.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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1 hour ago, Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs said:

 I have no issues with over heat in 90 deg. + weather with AC. . I did put a Hayden fan cooled transmission cooler on and took the transmission lines out of the radiator.
 

I never thought of this.

I'd like to know more about how you installed the tranny cooler ? How do you remove the lines from the radiator ?

With the AC on, I do have overheat issues idling at traffic lights if in a town (as compared to one here and there) and am wondering if installing  something like this would help ?

thanks

 

 

73 ragtop, 1999 Mustang Bright Atlantic Blue Paint, Phoenix Engine 302-335HP,  Edelbrock Carb & Performer manifold; c4 with 2000 stall and shiftkit; 3:55 auburn limited slip differential, Hedman shorties; Car Chemistry Exhaust

 

Classic Air; Tilt Steering Wheel; 1999 Chrysler Sebring bucket Seats ; power windows;

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I made two brackets that used factory installed nuts or fasteners. I folded up thick single layer cardboard to make my pattern then made the brackets. It is mounted down low in front of the radiator on the R.H. side. I can get some pics tomorrow lost what I had in computer crash. I used a Hayden fan cooled and put a manual switch to turn on under the hood. I always unhook my battery when out of car. You can get plugs for the radiator. i made new lines to get to about the radiator support and then flex lines to the cooler.

 

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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Believe it or not, you can actually remove the ethanol from regular fuel pretty easily.  If you take a gallon of gas and mix it with approximately 8 ounces of water, give it a good shake and let it settle, the water will pull the ethanol out and settle to the bottom.  You can then drain that water/ethanol mix from the bottom and you are left with pure gasoline.

Now, a couple of caveats.  This will reduce the octane rating of the leftover gas.  So you will probably need to add an octane booster if you plan to use it in your vehicle.  Also, playing around with gas can be dangerous, so proceed with caution.

 

Jason (71 Mach 1, 351C 4V, 4 Spd. Toploader, Grabber Blue)

 

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I'm lucky enough to have a couple of gas stations that sell ethanol-free premium within 2 miles of my house so that's what I use. I burn it in my lawnmowers, snowblower, boat, etc. But if I wanted to use gas with ethanol in it in the Mustang what would I have to do besides change out any rubber fuel lines with ethanol resistant ones? I have replaced the original intake manifold and carb already.

Mike

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I have been using mid grade E-10 for many years with no ill effects. I probably drive mine as much or more than anyone on this site at 7 to 10k a year. That admittedly may help. The only modification I've made to the fuel system is to upgrade the rubber fuel hoses under the hood. I only see a reason for ethanol free fuel when the car will be in long term storage.

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[align=left]Jeff T.

 

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passengers. [/align]

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43 minutes ago, trillizo_y_uno said:

Believe it or not, you can actually remove the ethanol from regular fuel pretty easily.  If you take a gallon of gas and mix it with approximately 8 ounces of water, give it a good shake and let it settle, the water will pull the ethanol out and settle to the bottom.  You can then drain that water/ethanol mix from the bottom and you are left with pure gasoline.

Now, a couple of caveats.  This will reduce the octane rating of the leftover gas.  So you will probably need to add an octane booster if you plan to use it in your vehicle.  Also, playing around with gas can be dangerous, so proceed with caution.

 

Nice car, sounds great!

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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If getting Ethanol free gas is a major problem in your area, then ethanol proof your car. As mentioned, use Fuel Injector rubber hose where needed. Newer carbs are usually good for ethanol up to 15%, Holley's anyway,. While you're at it, it might be a good idea to replace the steel fuel lines with SS. Kits can be bought from tank to pump, but I had to make my own 3/8" line to the carb and make an adaptor at the new pump, no big deal though. I went overboard and replaced the tank as well as there was a lot of rust getting in the filters. Also, please use correct fuel line clamps, NO GEAR CLAMPS!!

So, in a nut shell, if you have ethanol resistant rubber lines, a clean rust free tank and lines, a newer carb and fuel pump, you should have no worries using 10% ethanol gas. 

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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1 hour ago, Stanglover said:

Nice car, sounds great!

It doesn't sound so mean since I fixed the exhaust manifold leaks, haha.  But thanks!

Jason (71 Mach 1, 351C 4V, 4 Spd. Toploader, Grabber Blue)

 

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3 minutes ago, trillizo_y_uno said:

It doesn't sound so mean since I fixed the exhaust manifold leaks, haha.  But thanks!

It will sound nice anyway. Enjoy it.

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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1 minute ago, Stanglover said:

It will sound nice anyway. Enjoy it.

Actually, the engine bay is much more quiet, but the exhaust itself sounds meaner.  Nice trade, I would say.

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Jason (71 Mach 1, 351C 4V, 4 Spd. Toploader, Grabber Blue)

 

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I got some pics of the cooler install and the one I used. I was able to fab up two brackets one mounted to the radiator support and the other goes to the center grill and hood latch bracket. They both used the factory holes so I did not drilling and did not have to add anything that was not already there. 

The hard lines coming from the transmission in my car had been altered so I just added a barbed hose connection just behind the radiator support and ran flex hose through existing hole in the radiator support. I use the fuel injection hose clamps they are smooth and do not mess up hose. The cooler came with two barbed connectors if I remember correct. I just put a toggle switch down under it and put a fuse connector at the solenoid. I always unhook my battery so have to go under hood anyway. You could put a switch inside if you wanted. I got a couple brass plugs for the hook up to the radiator to close them off. I figure will help keep the trans cooler and take that heat of the radiator also. The return line is cool when I check it. Don't remember who I ordered from. 

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When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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On 8/1/2020 at 7:19 AM, eventhorizon said:

Hi, is there anyone in the general area of Quakertown, PA  that knows where i can get gas without ethanol?  i know the Wawa up by I80 has it

but that is a little too far to go for gas.  Thanks for the help.

BTW, for those of you who were helping me with the idling/stumbling problem, whoever said vacuum leak wins, every carburetor gasket was leaking.

rebuilt the carb and it runs fine now.

Thomas 

 

Hi,

If you treat ethanol gas with marine Stabil 360 it is suppose to neutralize the Ethanol in the gas. It also will stabilize the fuel for 6 months or so. The stabilizer in stabil works well. But many varying factors to how long it will last such as direct sun or shaded fuel container. Heat seems to break it down stabilizers in gas quicker.  

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15 hours ago, machattack said:

Hi,

If you treat ethanol gas with marine Stabil 360 it is suppose to neutralize the Ethanol in the gas. It also will stabilize the fuel for 6 months or so. The stabilizer in stabil works well. But many varying factors to how long it will last such as direct sun or shaded fuel container. Heat seems to break it down stabilizers in gas quicker.  

Project Farm on YouTube did a test on various fuel stabilizers and ethanol  several months back.  You can watch it here:

The short version is, while stabilizers may extend the shelf life of fuel with ethanol, there is no product that can neutralize ethanol and it's damaging effects.

Jason (71 Mach 1, 351C 4V, 4 Spd. Toploader, Grabber Blue)

 

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There is only ONE way to neutralize Ethanol in gasoline and that is NOT to put it in in the first place.

If you look at it from the Oil company's point of view, if there is 10% Ethanol added, then they are saving 10% gasoline, so it adds up to huge savings on oil cost. I don't have facts and figures, but that's the logic my brain sees. It's all about money, nothing to do with the environment or performance, or........

If one HAS to buy Ethanol laced fuel, then prepare your car to suit as best you can. That way you're covered either way. 

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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4 hours ago, trillizo_y_uno said:

Project Farm on YouTube did a test on various fuel stabilizers and ethanol  several months back.  You can watch it here:

The short version is, while stabilizers may extend the shelf life of fuel with ethanol, there is no product that can neutralize ethanol and it's damaging effects.

 

4 hours ago, trillizo_y_uno said:

Project Farm on YouTube did a test on various fuel stabilizers and ethanol  several months back.  You can watch it here:

The short version is, while stabilizers may extend the shelf life of fuel with ethanol, there is no product that can neutralize ethanol and it's damaging effects.

Well now........you call this guy a scientist? certainly did NOT do this as a scientific test. How much stabilizer was used? where was the product test conducted? was the air in the jar 100% pure oxygen? or was it contaminated?   What was the ambient heat surrounding the test jars?  He used aluminum so he says. You sure? This guy wouldn't know true aluminum from magnesium 2 totally different metallurgy's and each reacts differently from each other when when tested. Is your carb housing aluminum? or magnesium?  This test is bogus, I see NO evidence that it was indeed the stabilizer "not" neutralizing the ethanol. 

You can take un-coated aluminum or magnesium and expose it to the ambient air and it will corrode with white covering it. Im sure many folks on here have seen this. This is due to various materials in our atmosphere" it is not from ethanol".  Didnt use ethanol back in the 60s in our auto fuels,  and the carbs still corroded internal in the bowl floats. 

I agree with Stanglover that the best is not to put ethanol in anything. We all know why its done......to make more money.  

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Nobody is going to accuse Project Farm of following scientific method.  But he has a loyal following and I believe his experiments have merit regardless.

I do agree with Stanglover, it would be best to avoid ethanol all together.  Also, I believe the reason ethanol became en vogue was partly to offset rising oil costs, but mostly as a way to provide a government subsidy to corn farmers.  It would be hard to take that subsidy away at this point.  We certainly pump more than enough oil domestically with the rise of fracking to dump ethanol entirely.

Jason (71 Mach 1, 351C 4V, 4 Spd. Toploader, Grabber Blue)

 

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On 8/8/2020 at 10:10 AM, Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs said:

I got some pics of the cooler install and the one I used. I was able to fab up two brackets one mounted to the radiator support and the other goes to the center grill and hood latch bracket. They both used the factory holes so I did not drilling and did not have to add anything that was not already there. 

The hard lines coming from the transmission in my car had been altered so I just added a barbed hose connection just behind the radiator support and ran flex hose through existing hole in the radiator support. I use the fuel injection hose clamps they are smooth and do not mess up hose. The cooler came with two barbed connectors if I remember correct. I just put a toggle switch down under it and put a fuse connector at the solenoid. I always unhook my battery so have to go under hood anyway. You could put a switch inside if you wanted. I got a couple brass plugs for the hook up to the radiator to close them off. I figure will help keep the trans cooler and take that heat of the radiator also. The return line is cool when I check it. Don't remember who I ordered from.

Nice, Thanks for the pics and write up. Can you say how loud the fan is ?  Can you hear it over the standard radiator fan noise . Any idea what would happen if you forget to turn on the switch , could you fry your transmission ? If i do this, I'd probably install a solenoid that turns on the power when the aux is on.

 

 

Edited by mudbilly

73 ragtop, 1999 Mustang Bright Atlantic Blue Paint, Phoenix Engine 302-335HP,  Edelbrock Carb & Performer manifold; c4 with 2000 stall and shiftkit; 3:55 auburn limited slip differential, Hedman shorties; Car Chemistry Exhaust

 

Classic Air; Tilt Steering Wheel; 1999 Chrysler Sebring bucket Seats ; power windows;

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Actually the reason for ethanol being added to fuel is to increase the oxygen content of gasoline, reducing knocking and reducing the amount of carbon dioxide and unburned fuel in the exhaust. It replaced an oxygenate additive called MTBE, that was polluting ground water/drinking water and causing rotten tasting water. 

No, I'm not a fan of it either. I use Lucas fuel treatment for valve lubrication, fuel system cleaning, fuel stabilization, and water reduction in the fuel. It also helps reduce the effects of ethanol. However, if you're going to store your car you'll need to drain your tank, fuel lines, and carburetor.

Edited by Don C
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“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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I agree, nice write up David. And, nice job on the brackets, down to the air-flow window in the bracket in front of the radiator.

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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Hi , I live in Center Valley, PA just up the road from you. I believe there is a gas station across from ABE airport that might have non- ethanol.

Edited by cv_72mustang
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  • 3 weeks later...

As far as not turning the fan on the cooler it is really not needed. Most transmission coolers are just the coil the fan is just an add on. The line going back to the transmission is way cooler than the coolant in the radiator I do not have a optical temp gauge but it is hardly warm to touch now. When in the radiator it was hot could not hold it. 

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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