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46 minutes ago, Bobby said:

Mine were the clamshell type.  The edges of the clamshell is what was causing clearance issues with the headers.  In lieu of shims, what do you recommend?

The clamshell type is the 73 mount. Sounds like you have 73 perches. Swap out the 73 frame perches with a set of 71-72 perches and use the new mounts you have. This will get you back to the right height and centered in the fan shroud. The 71-72 perches are taller than the 73 perches since the 71-72 mounts are shorter. Hope this helps. 

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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8 hours ago, jpaz said:

Hello and Welcome from Michigan. Great looking car you got! 
I see you mentioned Hooker Super comp headers as well as the comp cam. I would not go with the super comp headers, they hang too low and don’t fit that good. I just not too long ago rebuilt my engine and put new headers on. I got the Hooker competition #6915 black ceramic coated ones and they fit perfect.

That is one of the ones I looked at (found on Summit racing's website). I was hoping for ceramic coated but the #6915's in ceramic are twice the cost of the painted black tubes so I'll take what I can get that fits. It says that they will fit the 4V heads and with a manual transmission and power steering. They might be the ticket. I don't plan on driving it in rain or snow and its garage kept so the plain steel ones would probably last a long time. Maybe if we get that 2nd Stimulus check, I can splurge.

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7 hours ago, Stanglover said:

Hello and welcome from SW Ontario, Canada.

That's a really nice car you picked up and I'm sure you'll enjoy "playing with it" to make it yours.

BUT, as others have mentioned, decide what you want to do with the car before spending money you don't need to. Tuned right, that M code will give you all the thrills you want without overdoing it. My 71 M code, (4 speed) with a slightly better than stock Melling cam, stock intake and manifolds, and a 3.25:1 (now) Traction-Lok diff. will spin the tires with ease. If it had a 3.50:1 diff, it would give me everything (and more) I would want for a cruiser. 

It's your car, your way, just saying don't unnecessarily go overboard.

My 73 Mach-1 has a 1970 M-Code (Toploader 4-speed) with the 4V closed chamber heads (11.0 compression according to Ford spec's). Initially, I was thinking I wanted a street and strip car but recently I'm thinking I would be very happy with a good high performance street machine. At present, all is stock except for an Edelbrock Performer intake, Holley 4160 (750 cfm) carb, MSD distributor and ignition, and turbo mufflers. I too have 3.25:1 rear gears but no traction-lock (yet). I really want a good performance street cam with a very noticeable lope at idle (I love that sound) but I have power steering so I still need a decent vacuum. Headers will be added soon and I'll be going from 225/60R14's to 295/50R15's in the springtime so I may need a slightly lower rear axle ratio to spin those puppies.

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2 hours ago, DaveMT said:

My 73 Mach-1 has a 1970 M-Code (Toploader 4-speed) with the 4V closed chamber heads (11.0 compression according to Ford spec's). Initially, I was thinking I wanted a street and strip car but recently I'm thinking I would be very happy with a good high performance street machine. At present, all is stock except for an Edelbrock Performer intake, Holley 4160 (750 cfm) carb, MSD distributor and ignition, and turbo mufflers. I too have 3.25:1 rear gears but no traction-lock (yet). I really want a good performance street cam with a very noticeable lope at idle (I love that sound) but I have power steering so I still need a decent vacuum. Headers will be added soon and I'll be going from 225/60R14's to 295/50R15's in the springtime so I may need a slightly lower rear axle ratio to spin those puppies.

It really sounds like you have a great car to make your own. It would be interesting to know the date codes of the heads. That info can be found simply by removing the valve covers. The date code will be found between the valves. Finding the casting codes requires removal of the intake, standing on you head to see the numbers under the inlet ports.... or use a mirror! Casting code and date codes are the only sure way to know exactly what heads you have. 70 "N" heads are listed at 11:1 while 71 "GA" heads are listed at 10.7:1 and there is only about 1 cc difference in volume (I said about). Actually, I have two listings, both stating 62.8cc volume for N and GA heads. Lots of misinformation out there. The difference in compression ratio may be due to piston deck height differences, I'm not sure as I don't have all the details. Personally, I find this stuff interesting. If you can post more info, great.

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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23 hours ago, Stanglover said:

It really sounds like you have a great car to make your own. It would be interesting to know the date codes of the heads. That info can be found simply by removing the valve covers. The date code will be found between the valves. Finding the casting codes requires removal of the intake, standing on you head to see the numbers under the inlet ports.... or use a mirror! Casting code and date codes are the only sure way to know exactly what heads you have. 70 "N" heads are listed at 11:1 while 71 "GA" heads are listed at 10.7:1 and there is only about 1 cc difference in volume (I said about). Actually, I have two listings, both stating 62.8cc volume for N and GA heads. Lots of misinformation out there. The difference in compression ratio may be due to piston deck height differences, I'm not sure as I don't have all the details. Personally, I find this stuff interesting. If you can post more info, great.

I wrote that info down somewhere when I first purchased the car but I cant seem to find my notebook at the moment. But if I remember correctly, the date code was "0F23". I don't know the casting number yet. I was going to obtain that info when I replaced the cam. The heads have the "4" marked on them without the dot on them. There is so much disagreement on what the dot means though. Some say it means open chamber while others say it means nothing at all, while even others say it appears on heads manufactured after a certain date.

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Thanks for your reply. Interesting stuff isn't it. The date is June 23 1970, but I expect you knew that. As far as the 4 or 4* goes, mine are most definitely closed chamber, with 4* and date codes in Jan 1971. I don't think anyone really knows for sure when they changed from 4 to 4*, but I suspect when the casting code changed from "N" to "GA".

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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