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In searching I see that the motor oil to use question has been asked a lot, with many opinions and I wanted to get most peoples most recent thoughts.

The garage that has serviced my 71 mustang in the past has used Kendall GT-1 synthetic 10w30. Its their formula with "liquid titanium" for reduced wear.

I would like to be able to start changing my own oil as needed and for whatever reason, it seems like thats a hard oil to find. The typical auto supply places ( autozone, advance auto, pepboys ) dont carry it.

The engine in my car is the original as far as internals, and has been rebuilt within the last 10K miles.

Instead of using the Kendall, should I be using one with a high zinc content more for flat tappet cams? Would the titanium work the same as the zinc? Would I really need a racing oil with high zinc like Valvoline VR1, since the engine isnt really "raced"? Maybe Valvoline synthetic Max-Life for older engines? AMSOil or Rotella?

Any thoughts?

Thanks!

 

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The real value of VR1 is for the zinc.  As much as it costs for an engine rebuild, it's all I use.

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If an engine has a flat tappet cam the oil should contain relatively high level of ZDDP (1100-1400 PPM). I have tried many appropriate oils and keep returning to AMSOIL Z-Rod oil. Chuck

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Right now mine has Lucas oil Hot Rod oil in it which has the extra Zinc, but I also picked up a case of AMSOIL Z-Rod oil that will likely be the diet for mine from now on. 

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For my rebuilt 429 SCJ, I use Valvoline Racing Oil, not simply because of its high zinc content, but because its so available at most local auto supply stores. Auto Zone, Advance, etc. Anywhere from $30--40.00. 

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Well, I'm on the other side of the fence. I am not convinced synthetic oil is worth the extra cost for a car that only get driven maybe 2k a year. A good conventional oil with a zinc additive that gets changed each spring, will be perfectly fine. My choice is Castrol GTX 10W30 with 6 oz of ZDDP. This is what my engine builder recommended and I have no problems at all. Some chose NOT to change the oil at all, just keep it topped up with fresh when it's down a quart. Probably, a really good filter, like WIX, Royal Purple or Nappa Gold will go a long way to maintaining a heathy engine.

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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I wasn't making the case for synthetic oil I was making the case for appropriate levels of ZDDP in the oil formulation. And yes, you can have too much ZDDP in the oil. The link is provided as information only, not starting a debate. Chuck  https://www.onallcylinders.com/2018/08/10/ask-away-with-jeff-smith-can-i-mix-zinc-additive-with-off-the-shelf-motor-oil-to-save-money/

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24 minutes ago, c9zx said:

I wasn't making the case for synthetic oil I was making the case for appropriate levels of ZDDP in the oil formulation. And yes, you can have too much ZDDP in the oil. The link is provided as information only, not starting a debate. Chuck  https://www.onallcylinders.com/2018/08/10/ask-away-with-jeff-smith-can-i-mix-zinc-additive-with-off-the-shelf-motor-oil-to-save-money/

Chuck, No debate here. THAT is a very interesting read and quite the opposite to what I and many others I'm sure, were led to believe. It would certainly be worth further investigation. I still don't see the reasoning for using synthetic oils in our older type engines, but I do see your point for appropriate levels of ZDDP. 

Thank you for your reply.

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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All of the off the shelf oil is so much better than any oil you could buy when these cars were new.  Most of the cars are rarely driven and even more rarely driven hard.  I don't think it matters much.  With that said:  My new cars get synthetic oil.  Once a year.  My 25 year old GMC van with a SBC gets whatever cheap stuff I have laying around when ever I get around to changing the oil.  My high compression, high RPM Boss 302 race engine gets 12 quarts of Valvoline VR1 + 1 Qt of Lucas every other race weekend or 5 hours.  A new NASCAR sized monster filter every other oil change.

I don't like synthetic in old engines.  It's too viscous.  Creates leaks.  When my 2 street cars are finally on the road, they will both get Valvoline VR1 for break in.  havent decided what I'll run in them afterwards.  no hurry to decide.

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14 hours ago, c9zx said:

Another interesting read Chuck. Thanks.

Basically, a lot of the confusion about which is best in older type engines, comes from older type thinking. However, for me, it comes down to the amount of miles driven yearly, typically less than 2000. If conventional oil was only good for a max of 3K miles, I would consider using synthetic, but most good conventional oils claim to be good for 5000 miles. That said, I will in future, be more concerned about the content of ZDDP in the oil, rather than adding it to the oil.

Again than you for the education.

 

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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2 hours ago, turtle5353 said:

I run Rotella 15w-40 in all my stuff. Bikes, quads, and my mustang.  Never had any issues. 

Of topic I know, but we have not heard lately about the progress on replacing your crashed Mustang. An update please.

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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36 minutes ago, Stanglover said:

Of topic I know, but we have not heard lately about the progress on replacing your crashed Mustang. An update please.

Still sitting in the garage. Got the check from the insurance but still waiting on the title paperwork. I think i'm gonna let it sit for a bit. Going to try to build a new garage next year so i have more room to work on it. I dont want to tear it apart in the middle on my small garage and then have to box everything up and try to move into a new garage next summer. Looking at tearing down my garage and building a 40'x60' with 16' ceilings.  Once i have it built, i will start the tear down process of my car and start from scratch. Build it bigger and badder. i will do 100% of the work myself aside from having it put on a frame machine. That's the plan for now. But you know how plans change....... we will see. 

Kevin
1971 Mach 1

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12 minutes ago, turtle5353 said:

Still sitting in the garage. Got the check from the insurance but still waiting on the title paperwork. I think i'm gonna let it sit for a bit. Going to try to build a new garage next year so i have more room to work on it. I dont want to tear it apart in the middle on my small garage and then have to box everything up and try to move into a new garage next summer. Looking at tearing down my garage and building a 40'x60' with 16' ceilings.  Once i have it built, i will start the tear down process of my car and start from scratch. Build it bigger and badder. i will do 100% of the work myself aside from having it put on a frame machine. That's the plan for now. But you know how plans change....... we will see. 

I see, so you're going to rebuild the crashed one then? If it's doable, why not. The new garage sounds awesome, I wish I had a space like that. 

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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53 minutes ago, Stanglover said:

I see, so you're going to rebuild the crashed one then? If it's doable, why not. The new garage sounds awesome, I wish I had a space like that. 

Yeah its doable. There's not much I cant fix to be honest. Just time and money. Plus the kids are pretty attached to this car.  I told the wife, this is the only garage im ever gonna build, so im doing it my way and exactly what i want.   It would be bigger, but i run out of property to build on! 

Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.
https://youtu.be/SoW1fhaFPzY  Burn Out Video. 

 

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2 minutes ago, turtle5353 said:

Yeah its doable. There's not much I cant fix to be honest. Just time and money. Plus the kids are pretty attached to this car.  I told the wife, this is the only garage im ever gonna build, so im doing it my way and exactly what i want.   It would be bigger, but i run out of property to build on! 

Sounds great, keep us posted as you progress. Nice to know you can rebuild YOUR car.

Now, back to the oil thread!!

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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This will sound real odd to some but I use an oil from Kawasaki designed for small air cooled engines. It is an SL rated oil with 1200ppm of zinc and stability additives for the oil temperatures of an air cooled engine. Confession time... I work for Kawasaki's engine division.

Some things to look at with off the shelf oils. An API rating of SL can still have a decent level of zinc around 1200ppm. If it is an SM rating or higher that level falls to 750ppm or less which is not sufficient for a flat tappet cam. As far as synthetic or conventional the US is the only country that allows an oil derived from crude to be considered a "synthetic". True synthetic oils are ester based, there are very few of them and they are very expensive. Oils labeled "synthetic" must have synthetic additive packages. Conventional oils or "blend" oils can have natural or a combination of natural and synthetic additives. 

Like everything else oil is complex and marketing just confuses the issue further (i.e. liquid titanium).     

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When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passengers. [/align]

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Posted (edited)
21 hours ago, droptop73 said:

This will sound real odd to some but I use an oil from Kawasaki designed for small air cooled engines. It is an SL rated oil with 1200ppm of zinc and stability additives for the oil temperatures of an air cooled engine. Confession time... I work for Kawasaki's engine division.

Some things to look at with off the shelf oils. An API rating of SL can still have a decent level of zinc around 1200ppm. If it is an SM rating or higher that level falls to 750ppm or less which is not sufficient for a flat tappet cam. As far as synthetic or conventional the US is the only country that allows an oil derived from crude to be considered a "synthetic". True synthetic oils are ester based, there are very few of them and they are very expensive. Oils labeled "synthetic" must have synthetic additive packages. Conventional oils or "blend" oils can have natural or a combination of natural and synthetic additives. 

Like everything else oil is complex and marketing just confuses the issue further (i.e. liquid titanium).     

Is there any lubrication comparison of oils with liquid titanium compared to oils with the high zinc level? What other oils are SL rated since the majority are SM or higher?

Edited by SteveO_71
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6 hours ago, midlife said:

engine oil used

 

I would not recommend the use of used engine oil.

Was that a funny? He's not using used oil, he's asking which oil to use. Just worded it funny. Or did I miss the joke!

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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12 hours ago, Stanglover said:

Was that a funny? He's not using used oil, he's asking which oil to use. Just worded it funny. Or did I miss the joke!

A joke based upon his title topic wording.

Edited by midlife
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Still sitting in the garage. Got the check from the insurance but still waiting on the title paperwork. I think i'm gonna let it sit for a bit. Going to try to build a new garage next year so i have more room to work on it. I dont want to tear it apart in the middle on my small garage and then have to box everything up and try to move into a new garage next summer. Looking at tearing down my garage and building a 40'x60' with 16' ceilings.  Once i have it built, i will start the tear down process of my car and start from scratch. Build it bigger and badder. i will do 100% of the work myself aside from having it put on a frame machine. That's the plan for now. But you know how plans change....... we will see. 
Good luck to you. That would be a lot of work, but well worth it at the end. I like your plan. Bigger garage and badder Mustang. Please keep us up to date.

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Answer this to me. Why try to make it complicated. The original oil worked. Just get the original oil add the zinc and forget all the opinions. Ford used Havoline in 71 - 73 years still available. Just add the zinc and forget all the BS. You are not going to drive like original. People go crazy over analyzing the need. You need a lubricant with zinc for flat tappet cam. There are hundreds. I have driven over 2,000,000 miles and have never had a single engine failure. I never change oil on time but I never over rev an engine either. COMMON sense is needed not lots of money and the latest buzz word to make your engine last. Get down to earth and quit walking on the moon. First cars did not even have an oil pan and only drip oil and the worked.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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On 8/14/2020 at 12:17 PM, droptop73 said:

This will sound real odd to some but I use an oil from Kawasaki designed for small air cooled engines. It is an SL rated oil with 1200ppm of zinc and stability additives for the oil temperatures of an air cooled engine. Confession time... I work for Kawasaki's engine division.

Some things to look at with off the shelf oils. An API rating of SL can still have a decent level of zinc around 1200ppm. If it is an SM rating or higher that level falls to 750ppm or less which is not sufficient for a flat tappet cam. As far as synthetic or conventional the US is the only country that allows an oil derived from crude to be considered a "synthetic". True synthetic oils are ester based, there are very few of them and they are very expensive. Oils labeled "synthetic" must have synthetic additive packages. Conventional oils or "blend" oils can have natural or a combination of natural and synthetic additives. 

Like everything else oil is complex and marketing just confuses the issue further (i.e. liquid titanium).     

So does your company know you might be borrowing there products from time to time?

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