Jump to content

Thoughts on this 429? I'm considering it.


Recommended Posts

For that amount of money they could have taken the time to take better pictures. A lot of them are fuzzy.



1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

Link to comment
Share on other sites

To clarify again... the eBay $27500 car price is not to be mistaken as the selling price for all future 71 J Code car’s... That sale was a blip, it happens. Their was uncertainty with the overall condition of the car, because, I had my finger on the button to buy it as the auction was coming to a close. I decided against it because I just was not convinced at the time.   

These cars in very good restored or original condition will bring appropriate top $$, just like the B1’s. My opinion...

Yes... it will cost a bundle to restore a J or C Code to a high level. It’s worse for those of us outside the Continental USA. I spent $1000’s just on the $ conversion and shipping costs for parts. Probably added 10% to the total cost of my restoration. 

If you go into this hobby to make money, try again... If you know you will have to spend money to enjoy your hobby, to enjoy the personal accolades for a job well done, to know that “you did it”... priceless. It’s not always about the money. You spend what you can afford and not a penny more. No harm done. 

At the end of the day, if I am going to invest $60k+ on a 71-3; it absolutely needs to be a solid #2 minimum to a #1 condition car. You need to complete your due diligence and buy the right car for the $$’s.

  • Like 1

"Yes dear", has kept me in the hobby a long time...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, USAFPILOT said:

Is there anyone nearby that can check this red car out?  

it’s in Jefferson, Iowa.  

IF you can find someone who know what they're looking at, fine, if not "Road Trip". It will be worth it for you to see it in person, believe me.

I flew to LA from Canada (well Detroit actually) to personally see the one I bought in 08. It proved to be a great weekend away as well as confirming the car was as the seller claimed. Although in my case, I could have just had the seller ship it. The car was actually better than he described and I bet that doesn't happen too often.

So, if you're serious about this car, go see it for yourself and have a fun weekend no matter how it turns out.


 I learn something new every day!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If I do,  what and where exactly am I looking to verify it is what it should be.  I am aware of the vin number and fender tag.  Where on the engine, trans, reared and body etc.  am I looking for numbers?

Link to comment
Share on other sites


As 7173Vert posted, you should perform due diligence before buying one of these premium-priced collector cars. No matter if a Ford, GM, or Mopar fan, everyone knows someone who has been smoked over a bad deal. Scam deals where the car never existed or a car advertised as a one of a kind Boss 429 that started life as a 6cyl car. The snake-oil selling, white shoe wearing con artists are out in full force. They know that the generation that grew up with these cars in the '70s now have the income to purchase these dream cars and will make emotional purchases. Wise people such as yourself will join forums dedicated to your favorite flavor vehicle. Lots of experience and knowledge on this Forum so hopefully, we can help you spend some (lots) of your children's inheritance!

One of the first areas most people check is the door certification label. It is a good source for Vin, body, trim, and power train content. But you now have to watch out for "Massaged" labels. They are now much easier to obtain than in previous years, so it's now possible to have a label printed to match whatever you want the car to be.

The dashboard Vin plate is another source. The 68-70 Mustangs are riveted to body sheet metal at the windshield. Unfortunately, the 71-73 plate is riveted to the removable finish panel the padded dash attaches to. A lot of people unknowingly pitched both pieces when obtaining a padded dash from a salvage yard.  Another caution area.

There is a thin metal tag (Buck Tag) that was fastened to the front of the radiator support on the passenger side of '71 Mustangs. It was a tool used by assembly line personnel that had codes they used to verify components as they were installed. Most importantly it had the complete vehicle Vin. The problem with these is they were very thin and easily damaged. Many were thrown away with damaged sheet metal if the vehicle was ever in a collision. Many were damaged when they were caught on a mechanics tools or arm. They only piece of mine left is the upper portion and the screw that held it in place. Hopefully, this almost 50-year old piece is still on the car.

These next options are a little harder to check. As you already know, there are partial Vins on the upper part of the L&R apron sheet metal under the fenders. Unless there is replacement sheet metal in that area or a re-body the first two and last six of the Vin should match other Vins on the car. There is a similar Vin stamped in the driver side rear of the engine block right below where the head mates to the block. Luck of the draw here. Some are stamped so lightly you can hardly read them out of the vehicle, some so plain you can read them from a distance. The 4speed top loader is also marked with the same partial Vin. The upper part of the case flange where it bolts to the bell housing is where it is located. If a contortionist with a good light, mirrors, and possibly a lift, you might be able to see these numbers. The illustrations show the buck tag, the partial eng block vin, and the 4sp case partial vin.

Hope this gives you some useful info. We're trying our best to help you spend some money!!   :biggrin:
















Edited by secluff



No Officer...I really don't know how fast I was going, my speedometer stopped at 140!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
22 hours ago, 1971mustangman429 said:

Anyone interested in a Japanese Export J code?  Wimbleton White Black Interior and loaded.  Have a J code 4 spd coupe also.  I am getting ready to retire.



Am interested in the 429 Coupe.    What color is your convertible?  Mine is red with a red interior.    Any chance you have a Maroon 429 also?

71 Conv 429.png

Thanks from MotorCity Mustang!


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Create New...